TheSubaruJunkie

9psi until fuel cut occurs. -Brian

Can we start a thread that describes parts from other makes and models that will fit on a EA82 body Subaru, or even ON a EA82(T). I'd like to know what suspension components people have used to upgrade their EA82's. I read that Honda has struts that work. Also, what about these Nissan rear calipers that are supposed to fit and have e-brake function? Anything else we can snag from other makes to help our EA82's out alittle? -Brian

Sounds like a fun project. Keep us up to date on whats going on -Brian

Also might want to check your coil. If its getting a weak spark you'll have problems like this. -Brian

Well, since my interior is grey, and the a-pillar mod is black... that's strike one. Plus, the A-Pillar mount is noticable to everybody who walks by the car, strike 2. And, it costs more money The dash mount keeps it sleek looking, out of the way, and i have a ton of fiber board laying around to use. To each their own. I still got some work to do on this mount. I want to add a plastic face to the fiberboard to even out the dash. And rig a better lighting system. -Brian

Wheels will be upgraded in a couple weeks. Just need the $$$ to get new tires for them. I dont know how well this paint will hold up. Only time will tell -Brian

Yeah, no offence or anything. But the A pillar pod is too much rice for me. I preffer it where it is. I can always get another switch panel from the junkyard if I want to restore the car. -Brian

Yup, thats all any boost guage is. Just a compound vac/pressure gauge. I will have my rear defrost back, just not in the clicky button it used to be. -Brian

come here and make me Scott ;P Your just jealous... admit it. -Brian

the guage itself doesnt have a backlight. What i did was took the small LED that lights up the left side of the dash, strung it through the side of my fiberboard plate, and then its resting beside the gauge. It works pretty good, but looks kinda ghetto. I'll have to fabricate something to clean it up a bit. I'd take pix, but my camera sucks. I'll need to borrow a friends. -Brian

bearings can be removed with a hammer and a metal rod of some sort. To install new ones you can gently tap them into the hub. Be very careful not to strike the inner race, and everything should go smoothly. I used a socket that was the same diameter of the outer race one time, and that was the best way to go at the time. Ive also used a chunk of 2x4 to dampen the blow, but I'd be affraid of getting wood chips in the bearings. All-in-all, front wheel bearings arent difficult at all and its something every subaru driver should have to go through at least once in their life -Brian

Naw, it wasnt hard to duplicate. I used the fake button pod as a template... traced it onto some cardboard which I cut to fit, and made sure it was the right shape. Then i traced that onto the fiberboard and used my dremel's router attatchment to cut it out. I made sure to cut it alittle too large, and used some low grit sandpaper to sand it down to an *almost* perfect size I will need to look at the wiring of the defrost switch and i will wire up a basic toggle switch. Then just put that in my fiberboard. -Brian

Thats where I got the idea, from looking at your setup It wasnt hard at all. I tried to cut a hole in the fake buttons that are in that panel, but there was ALOT to cut through, and when I got through a couple buttons fell out and things just didnt turn out as planned. Thats when I made the fiberboard panel. I will have my EGT gauge above the Boost Gauge once I find one small enough. -Brian

Sweet. Maybe i should clean the switches on my RX. The passenger door rolls up real slow. -Brian

Yeah, thats bent. Not badly though, ive got worse as well. That thing is definatly a weakspot when it comes to off-roading. You can reinforce them pretty easily, no need to fabricate a new one. -Brian

Wow. I cant believe you pulled it off. Thats awesome!!! Dyno for sure, track times too Are you using the EA81 tranny? -Brian

Who needs rear defrost Hahaha... I didnt move it, i removed it. I will have to wire another switch of some sort to control the defroster. The speedo rest's there. Its like 10mph off, which helps cause it keeps my passengers from freakin out since they dont know im doing 85. -Brian

Check for vacuum leaks. A vacuum leak will make it difficult for your car to idle or run at low rev's. Easiest way to check is to get a can of carb-cleaner, and spray it around the intake manifold while your car is idling. If your idle picks up or if the engine smooths out, you know there's a leak. Just spray closer to some hoses to locate the leak. -Brian

Sounds like it might be your bearings. Since the castle nut rotates with the hub and CV's, i dont see how that would cause a grinding noise. -Brian

Just ask him more details about his turbo. Ask who installed it (since we all know its not factory). Then ask what his boost is at, and if he plans on installing an intercooler (unless he sais he has one already). I used to have a roomate who was a pathological liar. Most of them dont even know they're lying. They just say things they hope is true, to grab attention. Just bombard him with questions until he fess's up and sais "okay okay, i dont even know what a turbo is" -Brian

damn i probably should have left the glycerin in the guage. Im getting alot of needle vibration under boost. Makes it hard to read actual boost pressure. Oh well. -Brian

McBrat is offering reproduction decals. -Brian

Tex, I'll definatly go back and get that other grill for you. I cant do it till after xmas tho cause i wont have any cash. I hope i dont get flamed. I was sick of having light grey trim. MAkes the car look like a granny's car. Now it has some definition to it. I'd like to get some new RX decals to replace my fading decals, i think that will add alittle more to the look. -Brian

Since my camera sucks, you can hardly even see the dial on the gauge. But this gauge rocks! Here's where I installed it: The visability is great. Shouldnt distract me from the road at all. Here's a better picture of the gauge: The gauge itself isn't a true "boost" gauge. Its a grade A glycerin filled Compound Gauge. I got it from McMaster-Carr online. The guage reads from -30psi to +15psi and is 1.5" in diameter. I was trying to avoid the ricey look at all costs. I ended up removing all the glycerin cause the air bubble was making it hard to read, but it operates just fine as a boost gauge. The gauge itself was $22, i also got the T fitting, 20' of hose and a female nipple for the end of the gauge. Total cost for everything was $48 and shipped to my door. 2 day delivery Im very impressed with the quality of this gauge. It wouldnt have hurt to goto the 2.5" gauge but i think 1.5" is plenty for me. Now for a manual boost controller -Brian

Ah Skiing Cant go until my arm heals. But by then I'll have the $$$ to go anyhow -Brian