TheSubaruJunkie

BRRRRR here too... in sacramento there was a overnight freeze warning in effect. -Brian

I'll have to hit the yard. I know theres rows of Z's and SX's there. Ken is right, rear ebrake on a locked center diff (or no center diff, 4WD) would be bad news. But RX's shouldnt worry much about this problem. -Brian

GLad to hear it was something simple The BFH is your best friend when a lift install is done. That, and a pnumatic toolset -Brian

Here's another lifted wagon I saw here in town. I believe the owner is a USMB member as well, who had questions on stuffing a EJ20T into a 78 Wagon a LOOONG time ago: This is just a body on a toyo frame I think. -Brian

Thats a nice looking Brat, very cherry indeed. I believe Subaru stopped putting 1600's in the Brat in 1984. -Brian

Mike, you would know if it was rubbing if you couldnt steer. The problem I had was steering from lock to lock. The struts would catch on that hump, and would keep the strut from rotating. Resulting in a loud "THUD" once it did get past the hump. Not sure if this is what Monstaru is having, but it might be the source of his problem. -Brian

That wagon makes me think of another Lifted wagon ive seen. Maybe alittle more extreme -Brian

TOLD YOU SO!!!!! I was thinking of driving up there today. But i figured T-Day weekend would mean Tahoe would be PACKED. -Brian

Ive had that problem with my 84 and found it to be the switch. Hit it with something -Brian

We'll see Rob, it might get a hood scoop. Need to find an image with a scoop i can rob. If the car doesnt get an I/C, it wont get a scoop. -Brian

Uhm... now im even more confused. -Brian

Thank you. Thats what i was going for. I changed alot. Removed some scuffs, darkened the trim, lowered it and added the rims. Compare with the original: Here's one with a darker rear spoiler: http://usmb.net/albums/album285/fixedRX4.jpg -Brian

Too ricey? -Brian

Here you go: http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/retrofitting_the_weber_dgav_32.htm And if you didnt get the adapter, but want to make one... where's another page cameron made: http://homepage.powerup.com.au/~camncath/weber_to_subaru.htm -Brian

Cameron's site has a TON of usefull information on the weber and fine tuning it for our EA81's. I'll try to locate the URL for you. Did you score the adapter as well? -Brian

I had to remove my struts after I 1st installed the lift (pain inthe arse). But after speakin with Zap that day, he clued me in. I'm not sure if PK put that in his instructions yet, but i figured i'd get a shot of the area. With the 3" lift you shouldnt need to beat it too hard. -Brian

yeah, your mount isnt supposed to stand still is it? Make sure its not stuck on that hump. -Brian

-Brian

You still got those images Mick? I remember Zap having them... and searched the wheels page but didnt see them. I could use Photoshop to tint them, but it never looks right. -Brian

woah, a sight for sore eyes! Dont know who your talking about... but welcome back. -Brian

Thank you Moosens. And thank everyone else too. The USMB could not be what it is today without the members we have. And for that, im thankful Now... where's the turkey? -Brian

WHen you installed the lift, you beat the snot outa your fender right? So that the strut can rotate. This is what im talking about: It maybe rubbing there. You might want to doublecheck. -Brian

Theres still a few weeks to go. -Brian

Close, but im lookin for Alloys. -Brian

You said hatch... i assume its an EA81 hatch. Its not hard to mount speakers at all. Just find a place for them to fit, and find something to screw them into. You should have no problem fitting speakers up to 6" in the doors, and if you want to cheat goto walmart and buy some enclosures for 6x9's... and get a couple 6x9s to put in the back somewhere. You will need something to take up about 1/2" cause any standard stereo will be too long to fit. You'll quickly find out that the heater core is in the way. As far as wiring is involved, its pretty simple. I'd suggest running new wire. You can do it the cheap and easy way and just run a single hot from the battery post (positive) to the dash. Then run a ground to any part of bare metal (body, firewall) Your stereo will have 1 or 2 wires that need juice. You could just tap both into the same positive, but your stereo will need to be manually turned off (wont turn off with key). Then just run the wire to your new speakers. The hardest part of it all is running the wires and keeping them neat. Expecially routing the speaker wires to the doors... thats a pain! -Brian