TheSubaruJunkie

Woah, Colorado subaru... hold off on the hostile argument. If you dont have anything nice to say... well, im sure you know the rest. SubaruBrat... i liked your old impreza better. But im sure this STi will be alot faster. -Brian

wow!!! Very impressive -Brian

remove the pipe that leads from your turbo to your intake, and put an intercooler in between. You will need custom pipe to go from the turbo to the I/C, and pipe leading from the I/C to your intake. -Brian

The manual boost controller is even cooler. You can up the boost from stock to about 10psi i believe. And that will give you the most noticable difference of all. The intercooler will then help with increased boost, and to compliment it's always nice to have a good exhaust. -Brian

Air temps shouldnt really get that high, but an adiquate radiator will be needed. Your AWIC seems pretty small, so i dont know how that will effect things. If you mount your radiator in the front of the car, it oughta get enough airflow to cool the water just fine. The water isnt going to reach temps of 200degree's like our engines. -Brian

The tank shouldnt need to be special. A large windshield washer fluid resivoir would probably work. I had a AWIC in my possesion from a JDM EJ22T. I had the pump and radiator, but the radiator was too small. Would have needed 2 of them. At high speeds your A-A I/C will be best. Expecially with a scoop and plenty of airflow. If you wanna hide the IC and have efficient cooling at high and low speeds, i would use the A-W I/C. -Brian

Im not against organization. But I dont wanna stuff the information so deep that nobody can find it. The current USRM will work great, as it is basicly a journal of past USMB threads. There are alot of written articles that still need to be moved over, I just havent taken the time to do it. There is a write-up that Corky has on his webpage from when he swapped his RX suspention to 5 lug. Im not sure if he'd be mad if we used it or not. I'll let him chime in on that one. -Brian

Dave. I wouldnt worry about your fuel problem right now until you get your spark fixed. After your coil is putting out power then worry about the fuel. You might find the problem to be the coil or spark the whole time. -Brian

Good idea. Better to jepodize their computer rather than yours. -Brian

Pat. Thank you for that response, it oughta do more good than harm. As a longtime member (one of the orignal 5 i believe) of the USMB, i have been through hard times and easy times with this board. I believe the problem lies with the moderation of this board. its hard for us moderators to correct a problem, most of us arent trained for such a thing. And when one of us does (more often than not) it is us, the mods, who are flamed for our corrective actions. That and the administration seems out of touch. But that doesnt mean we dont strive to make changes. We've migrated our board to our new VB system, and through our co-admin "Shadow" we now have a much better USRM (Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual) than we had before. Although there is much to be desired, that shouldn't effect our newcommers. Most of them just dont know. Either to search or to use the USRM. Maybe its not apparent to them, and im sure we can work on changing that. Suggestions are the key. There is a forum for site suggestions (maybe where this thread should be, but for publicity i deem it safe for the general forum). Please use the site suggestion forum to voice your concern. -Brian

From my understanding our fuel pumps only operate while the alternator is being turned. I tested mine when it was failing and replaced it. Replacing it fixed the problem for a week until it failed again. I found that it wasnt getting juice, or was getting it but then could cut power. I got tired of tracking the problem down, and just hard wired the pump to a switch. That took care of the problem for good. Also a great theft deterant. -Brian

Hrm... ive never heard of a 3MB virus, but i could be wrong. And seems like lately youve been targetted with virus's. If im not mistaken, didnt you just remove a worm from your computer? What is the file extension of this 3mb file attatched to your email? -Brian

Eh... the rims dont work, and yeah... that FMIC is alittle big and obnoxious. But hey, thats what people like i guess. Looks good though, and looks like alot of hard work went into it. -Brian

You guys are right. I think ive seen 3 threads on a 5lug swap in the last week, and a few threads on locating a lift kit as well. I think we need something more than just sticky's or a FaQ. Im thinking we need to advertise our USRM alittle better, or make it easier for newbs to find the USRM. Mod's haven't had much time lately though. Hopefully im not the only mod to have seen this. -Brian

Cant locate the orignaly pic anylonger. Seems the link has been updated with more current pix. -Brian

For some reason, im leaning more toward the Sedan. Reason being, how many Wagons are there really over there? And of the wagons 99.99% are most likely going to be 4WD (for the terrain). Since it was FWD with steelies, im thinking it was probably a cheap sedan the dudes got cheap cause it ran so well and oil is cheap there. -Brian

Looks to be a 1983-1984 FWD Subaru Wagon or Sedan. -Brian

$20-25ea is a reasonable price. $10ea is a deal, and free is a steal Would be handy to get a 5th to use as a spare. Its no fun to have 3 14"s and a 13" spare on. -Brian

The rear is different. I dont believe the torsion bar blocks will work with the 2WD rear suspension. If you convert your 2WD over to 4WD it will work. Remember to swap the front struts and everything in the rear, from the torsion bars to the diff hanger, and even a 4WD fuel tank. Then the lift will bolt right in. -Brian

Here's the link for the lazy ones http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html -Brian

Shawn, if your on I80 through California, you'll most likely pass my house. Lemme know if you are gonna be over this way. -Brian

Get a drill bit and a hacksaw. We had problems with a 4/3 Aluminum lift that PK made. I can only assume it was so new, it wasnt tested yet. We found that 4 of the front blocks (not x-member) had to be sawed down cause the corners hit the chassi undercarriage. Also the 2 blocks for the rear diff hanger... the bolt holes were off on 1 hole by only about 1/8"-1/16". We just enlarged the hole and everything bolted right up. The new aluminum lift looks to be 100x stronger than the old design, and oh so beautiful -Brian

I believe its on Micks webpage. Dont have the URL off the top of my head, i used to use the ultimatesubaru.org homepage, but now that's a part of VB too :\ -Brian

Lexus RX's, Mercedes C class & any BMW are for yuppies. Vanity plates are for people who show pride in their vehicle, or something they believe strongly in. I also think it should be something simple and easy to read. RX WAGN would work nice, and get the point across. TheAlleyBoy, did you hear the one about the guy who couldnt afford personal plates... so he changed his name to AMR649 -Brian

Yup, sounds like those cams were screwin up alittle. Is that what caused your other EA82T to go? -Brian