TheSubaruJunkie

I will be staying in Bend overnight Friday. Most of us on a dime are planning on crashing at the Wal-Mart parking lot. Adam hinted at leaving 1st thing in the morning, and I've traveled with Dave enough to know his schedule as well -Brian

I would say yellow valve covers, blue intake, and heads, aluminum block. Those plug wires you picked up?? Were they Yellow or blue? -Brian

I dremel and a soft wire brush head will get that crap off your heads. You might also wanna clean up the surface's of the valves, where they seat with the head. Those pix are lookin good, the car will be nice when your finished -Brian

Only issue there is old age Thats a clean looking block and heads. I recommend Mother's Machine shop on Fair Oak's, down by Sunrise. They did a great job on my EA81 heads. WHerever you take them, it would help if you had the valves worked on and heads cleaned up. Did you end up with a complete engine gasket kit for the engine? And how did that carb turn out? Looks like your making pretty good progress. -Brian

Make a replica. Do you have the old gasket? Get a sheet of gasket paper and an exacto knife. Other than that, its going to be real tough to find that specific gasket. -Brian

bah.... Here's a webpage a made a few years back highlighting the Subaru's in chronological order. Images and descriptions: www.subaru4wd.net/models.html Its kinda outdated... so dont expect pix of the new WRX's. And if you look, the baja was just a prototype when i made that page. -Brian

The webpage should be working. Worked for me this morning. The weber will give you more power than the hitachi, even with the mod. The mod will probably give you 10%-15% increase in power while the Weber would probably give you close to 30% more power. But, a junkyard carb is $20 as aposed to a weber which is closer to $300. -Brian

If your going to have the engine out, it will make the front alot easier to install. You could get to the crossmember blocks alot easier, and ensure they're tight. I'd advise using some Lock-tite on the threads for your lift. That way they dont rattle loose. -Brian

I 2nd the 2nd mechanic thing too, but you sound educated enough to run in circles. If you already paid this mechanic to replace a bunch of gaskets, and its still leaking... then you need to question the work he did. A hairline fracture wouldnt leak as much as your describing. Any crack that'd leave a puddle in 5 min is a crack big enough for the human eyes to detect. It really sounds like a gasket problem. Is this your 1st Subaru? Every Subaru I have owned has leaked oil. Even engines Ive resealed. Its just a common problem with the Flat 4 design, but one we live with. Enjoy the brat, and carry a couple quarts behind the seat. Think nothing of it until you see the smoke out the tailpipe and have fun driving with the T-Tops open -Brian

What kinda driving are you doing? The only time ive ever gotten a rotor to light up was when i drove with my e-brake on. No fire tho. -Brian

Whatever it is thats causing it, you had better fix it soon. You DO NOT want your engine to overheat that often. You are bound to blow a head gasket, if you havent already. I would suggest removing the radiator, spray water through the fins to clear any crap out. Then backflush it a couple times. Also replace the thermostat, and make sure both fans are working properly. Im not sure about your turbo lines etc... but i do know that an overheating EA82T=bad things for the future. -Brian

Thats good to hear. Now the only thing I have to worry about is a Wagon Chassi. I have pnumatic tools now, which I didnt have when I installed the lift. I think I will run to Ace hardware and get new lock washers. Mick, can you get any pictures of the Rancho's you have installed? -Brian

Well, the final days have come for my Wagon. She's handled all the abuse I can put her through, and I think its time to put her down. I am in the middle of looking for a replacement hatch, but I plan on stripping the Wagon down to nothing and using it. Everything should be easy to swap... brakes, rack, bumper, interior etc... but the one thing Im worried about is the Lift Kit. I dont have any worries about removing it, but its the re-installation into the Hatchback that im concerned with. Im wondering if the bolts that I got from PK would be good to be used twice? Also, while I'm at it, im thinking of doing some work with the rear suspension. I dont care much for the horseshoe shock extension, and would like to do something similar to SubaruBrat's rear shock idea, or maybe go with a EA82 rear setup. -Brian

Have you made any plans on returning to the Rubicon with it? Still looks odd with a straight axle in the rear, but I can definatly see the benefits. Great job -Brian

I found a set of Cooper Discoverer STT's in 205/75R14. I got the set mounted and ballanced all for under $400. I used Coopers webpage to search for local dealers, and then just started calling around. I had them mounted to some 14" alloy rims. So the wieght was as low as i could get them. Worked great on long trips. The set lasted a round trip and 2 wheeling trips in From Sacramento to Seattle. And a round trip and complete weekend of wheeling from Sacramento to Medford Oregon. The last trip I was on, i sliced the sidewall on some Granite here in California cant give the sidewalls that much credit, but the road handling and drivability was great. -Brian

You should really make a point to stop at the WCSS if you can find the time. If not to stay, just to say hi. I would love to see that car in person, and I know there will be alot of other subaru owners there that would too. -Brian

Even tho its called the West Coast subaru show... are there any members that plan on making it from out east? Tim, Shawn, Miles?? -Brian

Not only ruin the waranty, but possibly weaken the CV Hub itself. What are you going to use to cut it? Whatever you use, be very careful, and i would probably remove the hub and do it on a bench or something instead of hunched over next to your car waving a dremel or something around. I vote: no, leave it there. -Brian

With minor off-roading the LSD will be a world of difference. The welded diff is much better, but alot higher maitenance. And if your rig is a trail/get to work rig, then the LSD will make it alot easier for you. Lifted or not. -Brian

Make sure you pull it off a Wagon with the same headlight setup. The Quad headlight fenders arent the same as dual headlight fenders. The only difference is the front where it mates to the headlight bezel, but its enough of a difference to make it not work. -Brian

That was a write-up done by a Datsun 510 owner. It was submitted and edited by Ken (QMan). We could use a better article, but the one in the old USRM does a pretty good job of explaining the task. From what ive heard, its not that easy. -Brian

I really dont think i should count all the ppl who will be with my group. There might be 40+ I will be traveling alone in my car, so I'll just count 1 for now. Ken, it looks like it'll be a huge turnout. -Brian

You know it. I dont mind a parking lot. -Brian

They should be. As long as its not an XT6 -Brian

Are you using rear drums or rear disc's? You might want to do the rear disk swap before you do the rear e-brake. The rear disc's should grab alittle better than the drums. -Brian