TheSubaruJunkie

Anything with Portal hubs will need to be trailered.

How are you going to raise the motor any higher than it already is? Something tells me you are up to something Brian

Yeah, the addition of adding the diff up front will lift the front of the car 8" itself.

Finding them is hit or miss. You can get lucky and find one rotting in someones backyard for a couple hundred bucks. Or stay posted on eBay, they are always up there.

There is no way to install a 2nd transfercase without adding at least 8" of lift. The installation of the transfercase also means you must install an additional rear differential, but in the front of the car. The only way to make enough clearance is to lift the body.

Wish I could be there! I'd rather be on some tame trails with a ton of other subaru guys, than alone on some of the sickest trails in the world!

The largest chain of junkyards here, "Pick-n-Pull", runs a 50% off everything sale one weekend a month. Jibs & I have been known to take home complete 3.7 LSD's for as little as $35 after tax. However, i have never had to come home with a Transmission. I've also heard of some junkyards who run specials like "fill a bucket full of parts for $5"

You cannot theoretically add an additional subaru transfercase to your already dual range 4WD. Subaru's do not have a "Transfercase". Just an external output shaft that sends power from the front diff, out to a rear driveline. However, Suzuki Samaria & some other makes out there have what is called a "Divorced Transfercase" which is an external, dual range, transfercase that is run from a driveshaft off a transmission, and splits power 50/50 to front & rear. Its documented (in the off-road forum) how people modify their subaru's, mount a divorced transfercase & run that off the rear output shaft of their stock Subaru Dual range. This way you have Subaru HI/Low + Suzuki 1:1 & low range. Giving you the effect of a dual transfercase.

If you absolutely have to have a brat right now, then yeah... $2200 is a decent price (really wish you had a pic though). But if you can wait, you should be able to come across a better deal. But, you may often see them above the $2500 mark, and sometimes on ebay for over $4000 (rarely in the $5000+ range). I picked my Brat up for $500. Its not stock, numbers dont match, has had some major body repair. But still has the utility any other Brat has, and runs about as good as any EA81 I've owned in the past. You can find pictures of it in my signature below.

Nope! Happens to everyone here, and will continue to happen Only thing we learned here is you must bring your camera with you when you wheel!

This is what I slept in last year... here's a shot Austin caught of me napping after a half day of Subaru activities.

DAMN THAT IS A GREAT LOOKING SUBARU!!! Very good job man. You feel alittle more confident wrenchin on the wagon now?

How can I say no to that!?!? Before I saw this, the chances of me actually making it out were maybe 20%. But now??? Im going to say its at least a 21.5% chance!!! But for reals, im not sure if the Brat will make it there and back under its own power, and im not sure if the time of the year is going to work out just yet.

I need more info on that sub. Anyone got a link where I can buy one?

I knew there was a reason I stick around. Thanks a mill mick!

PLEASE! That would be perfect. Greenley, you are in luck my friend. I just so happen to have duplicates of everything, and the bed chrome is in great condition for both. I'll bring my extra up with me when I come to see Jibs.

AHhhhhh I see... The big problem here is you have your suspension fighting you. Don't loose your cool and take your time, you should be able to get it back together.

Ok so I have a sweet set of Brat bed chrome. I dont want to replace my crappy bed chrome just yet, because all the little plastic clips are missing for the body. So I cannot screw the new chrome in securely. Has anybody found a good replacement clip for the Brat beds. I found replacement screws that were beveled and worked great, but all the plastic inserts were far too small.

Dude im in love with that amp!! Is it powered or does it need an amp? You'll have to report back on how well it does. My Brat needs one! Also, I need to do Targa stripes on my Brat as well, so I will be paying close attention to how good yours turns out. Are you planning on installing them yourself?

Jibs I remember when We did this... at your sisters place Jerrys kit made the job painless. Its really worth every penny!

!!!!NO!!!!! What will most likely happen, the strut will start to take the weight of the vehicle and pull it off the jack, as soon as the jack is away from the car, the strut & wheel will move away from the car. If you are lucky, it will not fall on you. But most definatly the CV joint will be ripped apart. This happend to me once when the bolt holding the lower ball joint dissapeared, and as soon as I hit a bump it came out of the knuckle... everything after that was all bad. If I am following this thread correctly, you now have your 2" lift blocks ontop of the struts... the struts are bolted in place. The brake & hub assembly is only being supported by the steering knuckle & CV Joint. And You are trying to re-install your lower control arms?? Did these blocks not come with directions or installation instructions? P.S. How did you remove the knuckle side of the lower control arm?? Did you remove the balljoint from the knuckle? or did you remove it from the control arm? If you haven't already, goto Napa and get new balljoints. They are cheap, like $14 or something.

No, you're right. I apologize. You do not want to make any adjustments to your tie rod ends. This will do nothing to help your caster/camber adjustments. This is solely steering alignment and if you start toying with it, you're paying a shop to fix it. If your lower control arms are still not installed, then your camber/caster/toe in/out makes no difference. Also... Front CV joints seperate by Hyper extending. This just pulls the shaft and bearings apart from the cup. If it does happen either end may or may not spin independently, it depends on how severe the seperation is. And last, but not least... If you are installing strut top blocks, but not lowering the engine crossmember as well, then you can expect to have a TON of caster/camber problems.

IT IS PAINFULLY OBVIOUS THIS TASK IS WAY ABOVE YOUR HEAD I am not even going to waste my time trying to correct you.

How much are brand new springs for a 30 year old car?

I know right!!! These are some of the most beautiful Subaru's I have seen. WoW!!