TheSubaruJunkie

UH... D'UH!! Unless I can goto Napa and buy Pale Oil, Naphtha & IPA, which last I checked... i couldn't. So therefore, there is something special about Sea Foam.

I have not pulled the crank sensor to inspect it. I don't remember touching it when I had the motor apart either. Was only working in that area while installing new t-belts.

Wow jeremy, your wagon was so small back then.

Problem with central california is its still a 4 to 6 hour drive one way for anyone in NorCal or SoCal. This state is just too big

God I miss this car http://myspacetv.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=1505274 -Brian

Yup, solved my problem too. Makes sense

I just went and pulled codes from the ECU, and i get code 11: I trace the wiring from that damaged connector and it does lead to the crank sensor. Guess I gotta find a connector at the yard and splice it in. Then try. And yes Andrew, i got a .pdf of the FSM

DUDE!?!? What did you do to your car man? Why's its asz in the air?

checked that time and time again. Wish it were only that simple.

Ok so im at work talking to one of the mechanics I work with. He's gone thru training for auto's even tho we work on construction equipment... etc... Anyhow, he was telling me that a car is able to run on only the crank sensor, and even if the cam sensor was disconnected the motor should still run, but would run like ************. From what he was saying, is vehicles are programmed to use the crank sensor for spark, and the cam sensor for timing. Mind you, he's never touched a subaru, so I can't put much truth to all this, but he has gone through more training than I so I cant call him a liar. Is there any truth to this?

does that mean your working again Jibs? Going to try to make it there before the weekend. I gotta get 1 part for my legacy to get it running (hope thats all it needs).

Jibs cant walk out of that place without at least one LSD! Damn you boy! You guys should come to the sacramento PnP sometime... i gotta go get some things, but need a ride -Brian

I have the car wired for VRG's laptop scan tool... and i have an old laptop that is setup with only the scan tool on it. I dusted it off, and hooked it up. The scan tool recognized engine RPM when cranking the engine over. I dont have a multimeter at home, so this was just a quick test to see if the ECU is seeing any RPM, which indicates it does. I was swapping the 3 loose wires around on the connector in every combination I could. A couple combinations the tach would just sit there and a couple the tach would kinda bounce when turning the engine over. I'd like to check the ECU for errors, but i have a raging headache now, and i think im going to toss the towel in for the night.

Shawn what do you mean by that?

No real way to check for fuel pressure. I first checked for spark, and after finding none I decided to figure this out before I start to chase down a fuel problem. When cranking over the motor, the tach does not budge. CEL does come on with the key. So i guess the ECU is getting the power it needs. Im checking the .pdf version of the service manual, and the wiring diagram isnt much help to me. I do know, there were 3 plugs on the backside of the motor, center near the throttle body. two were 3 spade plugs, one was a single spade plug. When removing the motor, i failed to disconnect these 3, and I ended up ruining them. One of the 3 spade connecters just broke the locking tab. I now have it secured with a zip tie. The single spade connector tore from the wire, so I used a standard butt end connector and just reconnected them. The third 3 spade connector was completely destroyed. the 3 wires comming from the harness side were exposed. I matched the colors and right now they are just connected to the pins in the engine side until I can find a better replacement. Im thinking these are the cam angle and crank sensors??

checked, checked, checked. How do I tell if there is no signal comming from the cam or crank sensor? I have all wiring connected.

So everything is connected, bolted together, fluids where they should be. Go to start the car and it turns over, i have no spark I checked, rechecked and checked again. All the wiring i can clearly see is reconnected. What could cause the coil pack not to send spark? -Brian

Got it together. Used the starter to bump the TC. Once did the trick and I was able to find a threaded insert for the Flex plate. Now, i have no spark. See other thread.... -Brian

The motor and trans are already bolted together, so I hope the TC is fully seated. I tried rotating the TC with my finger, but it wont move. Maybe im not trying hard enough. Its kinda tough cause the access hole is in a wierd spot. I got the intake manifold and turbo in my way. I'll give it another shot, just wanted to see if there was an easier way. -Brian

So the last thing I gotta do is bolt my flex plate back up to the torque converter. But, the TC bolt holes arent lined up with the access window. Any way to rotate the TC so it will line up?

So many fond memories of that wagon Glad to see it stay in the family though. Take good care of it!

Mud is what you want, mud is what you get! Video to come shortly. -Brian

yeah, makes sense to do that. i'll let everyone know how it turns out.

Dogbone was never removed. Its a real PITA to get to anything under the engine bay. Subaru did a good job of stuffing as much as they could in there... no clue how I'll get the flexplate bolts back or the 2 bottom engine bolts. I'd hate to start disconnecting more stuff cause i know its going to be a b!tch to get it all reconnected.

Anyone have any other tips other than "making it fit" Its going to be tough to get that inch back, even with a 3' prybar. -Brian