chazmataz

DUDE, that is a nice looking Brat. Nice job on the lights too, looks awesome. But I'm with everyone else put some lights on top too. Man, i wish we could get those Bumpers with the Bull/Roo Guards here :-\ , might have to make a copy . Thanks for the close up pics.

YA, i agree with Jibs. it looks lopsided . go get the other side coated

sweet looking wagon, nice cut job. i do agree for offroading the swaybar has got to go and mine still handles on the road just fine. what kind of wheels are those, they look nice. are they toyota?

great pics guys. one of these days i will have to make a trip up there and join you on a trip, if i can ever get a saturday off. of course its a long drive from oregon too but oh well i can manage.

don't rule out the distributor all together just because you got spark at that time you checked it. i had a problem with my 84 wgn intermittently dieing on me while driving, just go dead and i replaced all my fuel filters and pump then desided to do my coil too, including the wires from the coil to the distributor. still kept dieing but then in a matter of a couple of weeks it started getting worst. couldn't trust driving it even to the store. i too was considering the carb. then someone suggested the distributor and i said no it has to be the carb. because i had spark when i would checked it. well, in the end i had 3 different people tell me that it was the dist. so i went and put one in and i've been driving it for 3 weeks so far without any hint of a problem. so don't necessarily rule out the distributor.

awesome dude, nice little article.

the way i was taught, which is suppose to be the proper way, is to take a tool if its available (don't know if one exist for subarus), basicly take an old distributor housing with the shaft in it put a drill motor on it, pull all the sparkplugs out and run the drill motor to turn the engine over until you get oil to the valve train or oil pressure. the way i've done it was take the coil wire off and crank the engine over with the starter, not the best way but i never had any problems with it.

awesome picture guys, looks like everyone had a good time. looks like a fun place. we have browns camp down here, looks similar. some day i will have to try and make it up there and go wheelin with you guys.

yes, a welded diff. does make for higher stress on all the drive train when in 4wd with both axles in on high traction surfaces and on the rear drivetrain when in 2wd unless one of the axles has been taken out. but a welded diff. doesn't need any special fluid or additives like a limited slip needs to allow the clutch discs to slip, all a welded diff. needs is regular gear oil like what is in there for an open diff.

thanks. yep, not cheap but some day down the road i will have one in my lifted wagon to go with my welded rear, then it will be even more awesome offroading.

just to let you know i edited my post while you we're reading my original post, sorry.

Why do you want to weld the rearend???? the leftside doesn't work whether the rear is welded or not. the front works the same as the rear in stock form, one wheel is the driver and the other tags along sort a speak. you weld the the rear up so both sides are connected so you have drive to both wheels in the rear. to get to a true 4wd you need to have a limited slip diff. in the front too (future mod. once i hear of a good thats dependable and affordable). that would be awesome. my experience with a welded rearend: try turning a corner in deep snow, it always wants to go straight , same as in the mud but not quite as noticable because you are slipping around anyway, then once you get it to turn it does it all of a sudden. fun stuff, but for climbing, definately helps having it welded. EDIT: ok, let me try and clear this up. if anybody else has a different opion or explanation please type in but this is how i learned how they work and my interpretation. open diff. has four spider gears in the diff. that are designed to allow one wheel from one side to turn at a different speed then the other when turning a corner, so one wheel turns more revolution then the other on the same axle to make for a smooth turn, one wheel power the other free wheels. open diff. ok so, a limited slip diff. has both wheels having power but there is a clutch pack in the diff. that allows for a limited amount of slippage (no punt intended) between the two axles when turning so that its a smooth turn. limited slip diff. now a welded diff. is just that you take an open diff. and weld the spider gears together so that both wheels will get the same (egual) amount of power with no slippage, the same as a locker, but this doesn't allow for a smooth turning radius because both wheels are trying to turn at the same rate. so you are dragging one wheel around the corner, this is hard on tire and the drive train thats the reason behind take the one axle out for street driving. so with one rear axle out and the rear diff. welded you still only have 2wd when shifted in 4wd.

fangster, thanks for the link to that ebay store down under. i just bought that copy. woo hoo! can't believe nobody got it earlier, oh well.

parts stores that handle import performance parts should be able to get them for you, some regular parts store can if they have a line on them. les schwab tire centers can also get kybs and they will sell them over the counter as carry outs.

even when you put the axle back in and shift it into 4wd you still in actuality only have 3wd, your left front won't do anything because the front diff is still open. but having the rearend welded is still better for offroading then not.

nice pics, looks like everyone had good and muddy time . i'm jealous, guess i will have to go out and have some fun of my own.

i agree, weld it. you won't regret it lots of traction for offroading but you will need to take out an axle for street use. once you done it a few times its nothing to put in and take out. i welded mine up and it goes alot more places then it did open and without any trouble.

you can't use impreza stuts on an EA82 unless you change out the whole suspension. they mount completely differently to the steering knuckle. i would go with the KYBs, thats what i'm running on my 86' wagon, plus Subarus came stock with KYBs, at least on the EA82s that i know of.

when i lifted mine i totally disconnected my swaybar for flex and with 15" Buckshots on my wagon (EA82) it handled just fine and now with my 235/75-15 MT tires it handles better then before i lifted it. less understeer then when it was stock. i say just get rid of it, i'm thinking about taking mine completely off so it quits hitting my control arm.

Nice pictures, thanks for sharing them with us. Looks like it was a well rounded trip (as terrain goes) and lots of fun.

the metal plate is only a quick reference to the VIN there are other places that the VIN is stamped on the cars plus a couple of decals with it, some of the locations only the cops know about from what i have heard. as far as taking it off i don't think it is illegal but i wouldn't leave it off for any reason, wouldn't want to chance it. you could always call the state police and ask them if it is illegal to take it off and put it back on after installation of your cover.

different parts # but still take 2 bearings and 2 seals per wheel on a 4wd.

yep 2 bearings and 2 seals for each wheel, front or rear doesn't matter.

to much camber and caster (to much or to less) will effect handling and steering.

try bleeding the drivers front and passenger rear with the engine running and see what you get. but you need to remember that the brake pedal will feel differently when the engine is running versus when the engine is off and you have no vacuum. a bad booster is detected by hearing a vacuum leak under the dash particularly when you are apply the brakes while the engine is running and also when you apply the brakes while you are driving your brake pedal will be high and very hard to push with very little braking ability. one other thing to is make sure your rear brakes are adjusted up properly, this will effect your brake pedal feel too.