lmdew

make sure the grounds for the car are good, clean and tight.

I don't think they are. I was talking to a subaru mechanic a few weeks ago and he has mocked up intake adapters to make the switch. I have a 99 2.5 SOHC engine I pulled out of the yard. It has 140K on it. $350+shipping. You may fine one close by - www.car-part.com

2.2 swap, you can find a good 95 2.2 with EGR for under $500. www.car-part.com

Engine bay Passenger side strut tower.

It would help to know what Subie you have. A simple check for low freon is to put the AC on and then pull the pressure switch plug off the dryer and jump the pins. If the clutch kicks in, you are low on pressure. DO NOT Run it for more than a few seconds this way. Look for traces of oil around the fittings and on the front of the radiator to check for leaks.

Thanks

I was looking for a gas leak due to gas smell in the car the other day and I remove the panels under the cargo floor of the wagon. Both side Sending/Pump Covers were as rusted as can be. There was no leak, but I did the Krol/PB Blaster Treatment. I hope I never have to pull them, I doubt the nuts will come off without the studs breaking. This was a MI car. If I was in the Rust Belt, I'd pull the covers and clean and treat them.

Look up under the driver side dash kick panel. If you see a black box about 4"x5"x1" usually tied up with zip strips that's the remote lock box. You can buy an aftermarket remote to work with it.

I've never seen a rear dif with a front seal leak. It's leaking where the drive shaft bolts up. I have pulled the splined front adapter out of other rear diffs but I don't remember if the seal was easy to get at or not. Anyone know how to change out the seal? I think I can do it with the rear dif in the car and just drop the drive shaft. Thanks

No difference that I have noticed. The 2000 and newer have a larger jam nut but I still think the rod dia is the same.

Unless you are check electrical faults under load, your multimeter can lie to you. Check out the TesLite Leds. www.brighterideas.com. They allow you to load a circut. Dan also has some good training videos on his web site. Larry

Did you move the car? The strut may be all the way extended causing the camber. The rear hubs do not have camber adjustment, just straight bolts through and they are the same. The bottom link rod bolt is in correctly I take it.

Yes, the 95 2.2 with EGR will plug and play. How many miles are on the CCR engine? Have you called CCR to let them know what is going on?

Drop a good used 95 2.2 engine in and be done with it for the next 200K miles.

If you want a spare intake complete with injector, coil... I have one I just pulled of a 98 2.5 DOHC. $40 and shipping and it's yours. Larry

Try pressure bleeding the brakes, you can move a quart or two through in no time. Home made version: http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/bleeder/index.htm Note the small yellow caps of the 96-99 Subaru's do not seal very well, so I use the one from the Motive Flow Brake bleeding system. Search Power Brake Bleeder and looks for JEGS.

Yes the bulbs were working but as I'd said they were very dim, poor contacts. Improving the contact fixed the problem. The bulbs were fine.

It should be under the passenger front seat carpet, up towards the firewall. Why do you think you need a computer? They don't fail often. Junkyard would be where I'd go to get one.

I've had a couple of 98 Subaru Outbacks, a friends sedan and a wagon that the blinkers were all working but blinked very fast. The symptom and what led to the root cause was the front blinkers were very dim. I pulled the bulb and bent up the contacts, + and ground. The bulb is not a tight fit in these sockets, which may contribute to the problem. Once the bulb had good contact the blinker was back to normal brightness and the blinker speed was normal.

The trans is most likely toast. A properly seated torque converter will rub up against the starter gear when you push it back and rotate it. When you install the trans, it will bolt up to the engine and the trans will still be about an 1/8" back, away from the flex plate. Install the bolts and pull the TQ forward to the flex plate. You won't hurt the engine by trying it, but you will contaminate the radiator cooling tank. Make sure you flush it out.

If the 2000+ work, there are a couple of them in the yard in town. $45 I think and shipping from CO.

The Trans. Are the axles 23 spline on both sides or just the trans stub shafts?

Yes, I just wasn't sure on the Flywheel as I know they use different size clutch disk.

Is the 90-94 Legacy 2.2 a alternate for the trans in a 1.8 Impreza? I know the motors will bolt up, but I didn't know about the flywheel and trans input shaft. Thanks, Larry

You need to pull the door panel and have a look. The motor is held on with 3 bolts. Once the panel is off, peel back the plastic and see what is going on.