lmdew

Start with the simple stuff, clean and tight battery terminals. Sounds like the starter soleniod is hanging up. Most Auto parts places will check your charging system for free.

Drop in a 95 2.2 and be done with it! I do this all the time, as it's cheaper, I feel I have a better product and there is not that much difference in HP. I've seen may 2.5 that had the HG done only to throw a rod a year or so down the road.

I'd just go back to the OEM coil Pack. I don't believe a coil pack will fail when the engine is cold but be OK when its warm. The non-oem one could cause other problems though. I bet your OEM coil pack is good if the symptoms did not change when you changed the coil.

Make sure all the electrical and hose connections are good. Electrical Clean and tight.... Was the CAT code there before the HG? Double check every connection.

Put an OEM coil back on the car. Change the coolant Temp Sensor. Make sure the battery and ground connections are clean and tight.

Unless they are very rusted or have sagged so it's noticeable I don't think you're getting much out of new springs.

Make sure you don't push the pedal all the way to the floor. Put a 2x4 under the pedal so the master cylinder pistons do not move into areas they have been in years. If you want, run down and you can grab my pressure bleeder and use it. Works great and no pumping. Larry

Coolant temp sensor, if it's running rich all the time. How did the plugs look? If you have a good multi meter you can back probe the O2 sensor harness and record the voltage. If my memory serves me correct 0.5 to 5.0 volts is the range. The higher the voltage the richer its running.

The lights and brakes are most likely not related. Check the fuses for the lights. The Brakes should be inspected, checking closly for proper clearance of the ABS Sensor and tone ring.

The rear Extension housing is pretty easy, search torque bind on the USMB there are some very good posts with pictures of the job. About 4 hours if all goes well.

You need to trace the wires for each circuit. Load Power Ground When you find all three you have a complete circuit.

Does it do it when it's up on jacks as well? Can you push the piston back into the caliper, take a screw driver and get it between the pad steel lip and the caliper bracket. It should push back in with steady pressure. If it's blocked, I'd crack the line up at the top of the wheel well and see if it goes easy now. If it does, the flex line is the problem. Otherwise work you way back to the MC. Lot's of brake bleeding will be needed if you open the system this way.

Go under the hood and check the battery terminals. If they are loose or have corrosion all over them, clean them. Follow the red wire back to the starter, make sure the terminal is tight there. Give the starter a good wack with a rubber mallet or wood handle. Some times the contacts stick. Have someone try to start it and listen for the starter to click. If you have a meter, you can check voltage at the battery and then the starter. If there is no voltage getting to the starter nothing will happen.

It may have jumped timing! Fuel Pressure should be checked as well.

Brakes will swap over with some work on the rears. Inter front seats will bolt in the backs are larger You'll want to pull the ECU and all the wiring, this will not be plug and play. Front Struts should bolt up, you may need to change the top mounts over. The exhaust will have to be modified to fit the Impreza.

It may be the wheel bearings making the noise too. Jack the car and grab the top and bottom of the wheel an try to move it back and forth and side to side. Any movement is bad. Also spin the wheel, if it feels rough the bearing is most likely gone. Yes, always change brakes in pairs.

When the TC is fully seated in the trans, it will sit back about an 1/8" from the flex plate when the trans and engine are bolted together. You can than use the flex plate bolts to pull the TC to the flex plate.

That was Easy, water in the connector from the firewall to the engine. I always steam clean the engines and engine bays, I guess with the winter weather it did not dry out enough. I'll post the Checks for the Knock Sensor when I get time.

If you can run this VIN and send me the report that would be great! Jf1sg69675g704991 Lmdew@hotmail.com Thanks, Larry

Take the old timing belt and wrap it around the cam and crank gears and clamp in it the middle with a vise grips or c-clamp. Basically a figure 8 with the belt.

Yes you will have to replace the bulb. A subaru part. Pull the gauge cluster and put in a new bulb.

Yes, I"ll have to get the wiring diagrams out and the meter. This car was not running when I got it, so this problem may have been there for a long time. I've never had any problems with the 2.5 to 2.2 swaps. As the code comes back on right away, won't clear if the car is running, I'm pretty sure its wiring.

Dropped a 95 2.2 into a 98 Outback. The PO325 Knock Sensor Code won't go away, the sensor is reading 550 ohms of resistance, same as the spare one I installed. I'll get out the wiring diagrams when I have time. Just thought I'd post here to see if anyone has had wiring issues with the 98 Outback knock sensor. Thanks, Larry

If the 134 was released slowly, the oil will stay in the system. When you service with 134 you should be OK.

I almost bought a nice 2003 Outback off Ebay for $5300. Not a steal, but a one owner according to the Carfax. It was in NJ and now in FL. I flew to FL to pick it up and didn't drive it 10 feet when I felt the drive line vibrate when I took off in 1st. U-joints I suspect, but with a 2000 mile drive ahead of me I said no thanks and walked away. I had it up on a rack and saw the East Coast rust and knew I'd never like working on the car. Cost, 1 day off and a hotel room. Repeat stay in CO, Stay in CO. Larry