Qman

Check all of your O2 sensor plugs/connections. Make sure the plugs are all connected and pushed all the way in.

The fingers of the pressure plate, not the fork. The fingers of the pressure plate are designed to be pushed from one spot. By using a larger diameter bearing that spot is moved further down the fingers of the pressure plate. Thus, requiring more force on the clutch cable. The design of the pressure plate from the manufacturer will deem how "stiff" it feels. Buy 3 different plates from three different manufacturers and they will all feel different.

Sorry, should have been clearer, I meant the fingers on the pressure plate.

Try not to take this wrong but take a driving class and learn to drive your car first. Then make it handle. I know too many people who set up their cars and then can not control them and end in a crash or worse.

The thing that concerns me the most would be the fact that the Nissan TO is further down on the fingers. Which would also mean it would take a bit more force to disengage the disc. With a new clutch cable it probably would never be an issue but... (just thinking outloud again)

It obviously undersold... There is nothing wrong with paying what something is worth. There are not free cars around every corner. It is a clean car. There are far more than 2K worth of things on this car. The mileage scares me a little bit but the rest is real good. It is OK to paty what something is worth. He has already explained his position far beyond what he needed to. Give him a break. Do what you are comfortable with!

It looks good, but not that good... Offer him the $2100 plus the money for the cat-back. He makes a couple bucks and you get something you want.

Mike, come by the house after work one of these nights. I will show you how to fix it. Ken

That is funny. I never even saw the old ads. I guess I may know prices after all!!

That is where a factory manual is very handy to have. It will tell you the torque value for every bolt in the car. Re-engineering the car after the fact may be time better spent elsewhere.

Rick, from what you understand? You haven't done one of these? I have done several. It will be fine. It will hold the power better than a stock clutch. The build will need better holding power. The clutch I recommended will do the job as stated. Subaru calls for two different TO's for 4wd's. Wagons and non-wagons. I would guess for the difference in weight. Otherwise, who knows, it could be superseded by now any way.

They touch just fine. The only reason to use the that TO bearing is that it matches the fork. But, if you are comfortable with it you can use a 4wd TO. Mounts up the same. And, if you are really worried about it you can use a 4wd wagon bearing...

No, you use the throwout bearing for the transmission you are using.

I would look at using, at the very least, an EA82 clutch and flywheel. Anything less and you run the risk of slippage. An XT6 assy would be slightly over-kill but would not slip under load.

Sorry, bad form. I think he is refering to the mounting bolt rather than the slider. My initial thought was the same as slip critical meaning that the joint was designed to slip under pressure. Those are not. Over tightening is what my comments were directed at more than anything. Torque by feel will generate more over torqued bolts. Which will result in more "stretched" or over torqued bolts. Both of which will cause more grief than good. Using a torque wrench on the car with the proper torque specs will not only not break bolts but it will give the OP the true feel for the torque value specified. "Feel" takes years to get and that still is not fool-proof. In the end only torquing bolts with a torque wrench can ensure that they are correct. Now, before this arguement starts,. I do not torque every bolt myself. I have, however, been doing this for over 30yrs and know the difference and when torquing is required. I use 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets depending on bolt size to avoid over-torqueing whenever possible. Ken

If all you found wrong was a couple of boots maybe. Price reflects a good condition, low mile car. Offer $2K and work from there. I doubt there are people knocking his door down at the current price. This is a NW car with NW options. So, price is relative. I would also do a compression test on the motor just to make sure. Does it look like the work was done that is claimed?

Yes, it needs to be turned to avoid shudder.

Every bolt has a specific torque value. The guys who subscribe to the thought that just make it tight are the ones I blame when bolts don't come loose without using extreme force. And tight enough explains why I see wheels seperate from cars going down the road. And thanks for showing your ignorance... Generally speaking, there really isn't a reason for slip critical joints or bolts in an automotive application. I guess bushings would sort of fall into that catagory but not bolts.

Or... you could do it on the car and actually accomplish something...

Believe it if you want, but don't spread it around!

If driven conservatively, yes. Otherwise, no!

It is not wrong to want to do the job correctly. Torque specs are important. It will stop a bolt or fastener from being over-stressed. Your caliper bolt is best between the numbers you gave. Shoot for the mid and you'll be fine. You can add a little blue lock-tite if you are concerned of it coming loose.

Where do you get this stuff? Worst advice I could imagine.

Until all the connectors corrode.