Qman

From my experiences 10w30 should be fine. I also have used a small amount of anti-sieze when putting steel bolts into aluminum threads.

A donor car is the bet approach. As for being too much work. Not really. Bolt in the rear sub and change the fuel tank. Swap out the trans. Change the front struts. What more is there? Besides, what better way to learn the entire workings of your car by doing a tear-down and reassembly. It will take some time but is not a difficult job. Finding one that is already equipped would be faster but not as fun!!

Yep, you're right over analyzed it for sure. Steel vs aluminum threads need to be accounted for as well. Not just diameter and length. I have done several of these and one is enough. But, if you feel better about it see if they are available and at what cost.

1 Helicoil is all you need. Any more and you run the risk of dislodging them or causing thread mismatch.

The ignitor is seperate and mounted on the firewall directly behind the throttle body. That would be my first checking point, spark. No spark then coil or ignitor.

Sorry, but nothing about Doug's motor builds is a simple bolt-on!

That's a cute little blower ya got there boy! Not sure why you would post an underhood V-8 blower on a Subaru forum...

Looks very nice.

That is the thoughts I used to come up with my advice.

Yes, coil type thread insert. The existing hole will keep you straight as long as you do not use a lot of force when drilling. Put a little grease on the flutes to hold the chips from drilling and threading.

If it had seen heat I would agree. It did not nor did it achieve final torque. The gasket will be fine. If you have a dealer local to you and can get one without a lot of delay I would consider it. If not, run with it.

Heli-coil the block. I would consider doing them all if you have some that are bad. The gasket will be fine as you never achieved full torque. I did a head job once that I had pulled the threads on no less than 5 holes. Very frustrating. I feel your pain. But, all repairs held up fine as far as I know. Never heard of any problems later on.

No need to switch from left to right or right to left. You only swap the running gear. It is expensive unless you can do your own work. Better off swapping a USDM WRX or STi. Still expensive though.

That's nuts!

Just want to quote this for future use!!

Axles break due to spinning in the air then coming in contact with the ground. Better lines and less gas will relieve most of your breakage issues. The hybrids allow a little more travel. But the reason for breakage is poor driving habits!

Not sure. You could probably sneek into the woods and find a spot.

First, body style has absolutely nothing to do with breaking axles. I broke 2 axles in 5 yrs of wheeling my hatch. A properly built EA81 with a Weber is just as reliable and fun to drive as anything else. Again, 5yrs of wheeling my hatch with that set up. No problems. I will agree that the Hatch is the best wheeling rig. But, having shorter wheel base is not always the best option. The fact that any EA81 is under 100" wheel base and under 72" wide. Wagon, Hatch, BRAT, sedan or Coupe all work. EA82 wagon, 3dr or sedan all work. Each has differences that someone will like or dislike. The main points you need to consider are manual transmission with dual range. Carbed or injected, both work. EJ swaps give superior power with injection. But, add a cam to your EA81 or EA82 and it becomes a different vehicle. In other words... pick the one you like and build it like you want it. There are so many links to so many rigs that were built here that it may take you a while to decide from that. Do what you like!

If you had a valve problem you'd have it all the time. Compression should be within 10% high to low regardless of age. If it is outside of that then you may need to look into repair.

If this is a 2.5 SOHC head, the cam cap is sealed with a thin bead of sealant. You will notice a relief around the outside edge of the cap where it mates with the head. More is not better. Just enough to get a nice thin squeeze out. Make sure to use new cam seals as well.

Could be a MAF. Could be a ground issue. You really need to check codes. Is it drivable so you could go to Autozone or Schucks for a code check? Where is the car now? What did you do with that property btw?

LOL, he was gentle!! When I spit the teeth from 2nd gear at the nationals in 2007 I shreaded every tooth off. No one could believe it. It was the worst N/A shred anyone had ever seen. There were literaly no teeth left on either gear. It was abused before I put it in the car and highly abused after I put it in the car. 2nd gear has never been real tough in these cars. Especially if they are shifted hard. Mine normally is driven hard during rally cross. I have a baggy filled with teeth on my wall of fame/shame.

Thanks Ed!! Anyone interested in volunteering in service park or timing can contact me directly. I am assembling a crew for that. Ken

Check that the O2 sensors are plugged in!

Here we go again with the 2.5 haters. Yes, they do have head gasket failures just like every other aluminum motor in the world. Change the head gaskets and reseal the motor and you are golden. More power, slightly less mpg. A phase1 2.5 will bolt in. You may have to change some connectors or do a little wiring but DO NOT let these guys talk you out of it. I have 3 2.5 motors in my cars. All have had the HG's done and all are running just fine. One of them is putting out over 160whp. Another is projected at near 200whp. Enjoy!