Qman

Awfully quick to make an assumption for something you have not seen. Finally get your crystal ball back from the shop? To do this one leak at a time is a huge waste of time. Have the engine pressure cleaned and identify the leak. One fix instead of throwing money at a problem that isn't that complicated!

The phase 2 2.2 does not have the rear O-ring. It has the same valve covers as the phase 2 2.5. I would check the metal washer on the drain plug for leaks. My guess is they drained the oil when they serviced the car. If they did not replace the metal gasket on the drain plug it will leak. Check that first before doing all of this work.

That is officially the stupidest thing I have seen so far in '10. Buyer beware is a slight understatement!

Looks to be in decent shape. Get a vehicle inspection and a carfax prior to purchase.

Absolutely, they like to eat second gear and have input shaft bearing issues. Thought everyone knew that! Considering the fact of location, I would be very concerned with under carraige rust. Then, and only after rust has been looked into, would I be concerned with timing belts and regular scheduled maintainence. My suggestion would be to find a private party vehicle with around 130K. Chances are the service has been taken care of and then all you would need to be concerned with would be body condition.

Uh, yeah, seems like a no-brainer to me!

What other issues? Have you done this swap?

A lot of the EJ25 transmissions share the same input shaft bearing issue. The updated bearings are better and will last longer.

When did you move to NY? Otherwise, you can not "live by that hill too".

Get the car to Steve at Pacific Import Auto in Spanaway. They will take care fo you. They are closed Monday. Call 253-536-0389. You'll speak to Dave or Steve. Both of these issues are quite common, despite what others might claim. And not the end of the usefulness of the vehicle. The trans issue is probably Bearing related. Seen it several times. The bearing starts to wearout causing play in the input shaft. The bad thing is that this play can cause the aluminum to round out as well. It may be possible to just replace the bearing and you may be OK. Steve repaired my trans this way. The head gasket issue is just a matter of replacing the gaskets. And the other components neccessary to complete the job. Timing belt, water pump, cam and crank seals, rear main. And depending on miles and condition maybe even the clutch. It is a substantial amount of money but once done you can be looking at another 60-100K miles before any other major service is required. The head gaskets can be done by you to save some money. I would recommend have Steve do the trans work. Buying a used trans will almost always have some sort of issue.

Make sure to flush the entire system of new brake fluid. There could be moisture present that caused the caliper to freeze in the first place. Besides, it should be done from time to time any way.

Missed that... good catch!

Stumbled on this thread. The one real way to identify the heads is that the hydraulic heads have large valves and the solid heads have small valves. '84 and newer should have hydraulic. '83 and newer with automatic also have hydraulic. Keep in mind that this is for an unmolested motor. As miles and head gaskets mount there is a risk that the heads have been mixed and matched along the way.

Part of the problem is that it is so cold. Even the 10-30 can experience this. The oil is too thick at start up when it is so cold. Kind of like pouring molasses through a straw. Try a lighter weight oil after a small amount of seafoam. Otherwise, it may be that the oil passages in the rockers are getting clogged and can not get enough oil through them. This can cause premature failure in the HLA's. I know of a source if you find they are bad.

I have not heard of this. I will have to check in to it and get back to you. What is the idea behind the slot? How is it supposed to increase performance?

There are a number of Subaru people in the NE. I would recommend repair. It is a good vehicle. The motor is reliable once you get it back up. The heads will need work. Valve replacement is mandatory. May not need all replaced but usually at least half. OEM gaskets are indeed a must. Get the heads resurfaced while the valve job is being done. Definitely look for an independant Subaru repair facility to do this. Dealer second. And, I would try to avoid someone who doesn't work on a Subaru regularly. Did you buy this from a private party or dealer?

Exedy clutches are good and average priced. They have a stock clutch kit as well as performance based staged kits. As stated earlier cheapest isn't always best. Turn the fylwheel, replace the throw out and center pilot bearings. Keep everything oil free and clean the anti-corrosion coating off of the pressure plate before you install everything. They are specific to each vehicle. 1.8, 2.2 and 2.5 all share the same bolt pattern. The ratio's are different but they are interchangable.

Yes, sounds like a broken belt if you are not getting movement from the pistons on one side. Doesn't mean the motor is bad. Just means it has a broken belt. There may be water in a cylinder as well. Did you notice any when you rotated 350 degrees?

XT's are a huge PITA. It may require letting the column hang. I barely remember doing one many, many years ago. Try taking out the bolts that hold it up. That may give you enough room. I will check the manual later. And see if you got it done or not.

Works for me.

HEre is Jamal's brake thread. Iy has a lot of info. Read it thouroughly and you should find all the info you need. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=36289

The manual does state that. My take on it is that they tell you that to slow you down. Not to disable it. By telling you that your brakes system may not work as well in snow and ice they are covering themselves from lawsuit.

bgambino, wally, grossgary and Gloyale, Your posts are accurate. My original point still stands. Disabling the ABS by switches or faux fuses is against the law. Driving conditions should dictate how a person drives not the safety equipment. I may have misrepresented myself as an advocate for ABS. I am not. I remove the ABS from the race cars. I know how to disable it for rallycross. As stated earlier 97% of drivers benefit from it. In part because they drive the conditions not the gas pedal. There are conditions where everything is bad. If we debated every one of them we would miss a lot of things far more important. Just remember, Darwin will take care of the problem eventually.

Then why are you giving advice on it?

I'll be working in the garage tomorrow. If you need help pm me a number and I will give you directions to my place.