Qman

Exedy clutches are good and average priced. They have a stock clutch kit as well as performance based staged kits. As stated earlier cheapest isn't always best. Turn the fylwheel, replace the throw out and center pilot bearings. Keep everything oil free and clean the anti-corrosion coating off of the pressure plate before you install everything. They are specific to each vehicle. 1.8, 2.2 and 2.5 all share the same bolt pattern. The ratio's are different but they are interchangable.

Yes, sounds like a broken belt if you are not getting movement from the pistons on one side. Doesn't mean the motor is bad. Just means it has a broken belt. There may be water in a cylinder as well. Did you notice any when you rotated 350 degrees?

XT's are a huge PITA. It may require letting the column hang. I barely remember doing one many, many years ago. Try taking out the bolts that hold it up. That may give you enough room. I will check the manual later. And see if you got it done or not.

Works for me.

HEre is Jamal's brake thread. Iy has a lot of info. Read it thouroughly and you should find all the info you need. http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=36289

The manual does state that. My take on it is that they tell you that to slow you down. Not to disable it. By telling you that your brakes system may not work as well in snow and ice they are covering themselves from lawsuit.

bgambino, wally, grossgary and Gloyale, Your posts are accurate. My original point still stands. Disabling the ABS by switches or faux fuses is against the law. Driving conditions should dictate how a person drives not the safety equipment. I may have misrepresented myself as an advocate for ABS. I am not. I remove the ABS from the race cars. I know how to disable it for rallycross. As stated earlier 97% of drivers benefit from it. In part because they drive the conditions not the gas pedal. There are conditions where everything is bad. If we debated every one of them we would miss a lot of things far more important. Just remember, Darwin will take care of the problem eventually.

Then why are you giving advice on it?

I'll be working in the garage tomorrow. If you need help pm me a number and I will give you directions to my place.

That also seems like a good deal. But, you will still have to buy the filter and adapter. It may also have to be re-jetted.

You obviously missed my point as well. Messing with safety equipment is bad, period. People forget that Subaru's, specifically, go so well in foul weather that they should stop just as well. Problem is that people do not slow down. People assume that their vehicles will stop them at whatever speed they are travelling. ABS is designed to not allow the brakes to lock. Therefore, they are safer. If your wheels are locked you can not steer or stop safely. There may be instances that you need to slam on your brakes and come sliding to a stop... oh, yeah, when you are going too fast!

A 7/8"(21mm) socket for the crank bolt. The compression test will tell you compression. Problem is the engine has not run in a while. Dry cylinder walls and valve seals/seats, you get the idea. Again, the connections would be the difference between years. Get a carbed distributor to make certain you have the correct one. But, in a pinch, any should produce fire! If you can not find one let me know. I have several distributors on the parts shelf in the garage.

My take on this is as follows... Brakes are critical! If there is an issue it must be repair immediately. For your safety and the safety of those on the road with you. The mechanical side sounds like the pads have been replaced a few times without turning the rotors. Fronts usually have enough material to be turned a couple of times. I think it would be a good idea to go through your brakes considering you do not know the history of them. And, considering their present condition. MAke sure that you clean and regrease the slide pins and slide bolts. That is the number 1 reason for brake issues on the front of most Subarus. And the machinist also has more than you behind him to worry about when turning drums and rotors. If he turns the rotors below minimun and there is an accident brake related or not. He wil become liable. No business owner is going to risk his livelyhood to save you a couple of bucks.

Try to find the same year. Different years have different connections. Some were plugged and some were attatched to the distributor by nuts. Get a carbed model as well.

That is a good price. Verify s/h before ordering. A properly jetted and adjusted Weber is a superior upgrade. I can help adjust it if neccessary. A specific kit for a Subaru should have correct jetting.

If you insist on posting behind all of my posts at least get it right. The EGR is not an issue if you keep the intake form the car on the new engine. EGR is part of the intake. By doing it this way there is not a check engine light. The ECU has no problems running the EJ22 either. 97+ not 96+ are single port. Irregardless of interference or not the timing belts should be maintained per Subaru service intervals.

I checked car-part.com and it appears that the 01 and 02 Legacy are the only interchange for the caliper. Brightons have a different caliper as well.

Aren't you still under factory warranty? I do not know if they will interchange, I would be checking the warranty first.

Nice score. Can't beat the price that's for sure. They are very nimble but the short wheel base can lead to problems. Be careful on steep grades and side hills. You will have a blast in it!

Sounds like they broke the ball joint retaining bolt. Very common but not a big deal. Drill and rethread, install a new bolt...done. If the knuckle needed to be replaced then there is more to the story on their end. Get all the parts returned to you. Does sound like they are trying to cover their own butts here. Why else would they give you parts for cost and split the labor costs without you asking for it? Be very careful and do not sign any releases from them. I wouldn't even sign the work order without noting the problems and having the manager sign it as well. Make sure you get warrantee backing for the replacement parts and all work doen by them. Make them note it and sign it as well.

Remove the intake from the EJ18. Bolt it onto the EJ22 and you are done. The exhaust will fit if it is a '96 and older EJ22. Otherwise, you need the header from the later motor. Some other advice... Look for new thread button next time. You find a search function here as well. These have been swapped many times and all the info needed to do it is here for the finding. Enjoy your stay.

All the radiator shops in my region will not service a plastic tanked radiator. It would be a lot less expensive for the end-user if they would though.

OK, maybe you can tell us all how this is not part of the tank. If the inlet is brittle enough to break than the radiator itself is also getting too brittle. Replace it!

Yes, .20/.25mm is accurate. Should read .008/.010" as well if you do not have a metric feeler gauge.

Tanks are not servicable. JB Welding any part of a radiator to get it off the road would be acceptable. To do it instead of a proper repair or replacement is only asking for problems.