Qman

That also seems like a good deal. But, you will still have to buy the filter and adapter. It may also have to be re-jetted.

You obviously missed my point as well. Messing with safety equipment is bad, period. People forget that Subaru's, specifically, go so well in foul weather that they should stop just as well. Problem is that people do not slow down. People assume that their vehicles will stop them at whatever speed they are travelling. ABS is designed to not allow the brakes to lock. Therefore, they are safer. If your wheels are locked you can not steer or stop safely. There may be instances that you need to slam on your brakes and come sliding to a stop... oh, yeah, when you are going too fast!

A 7/8"(21mm) socket for the crank bolt. The compression test will tell you compression. Problem is the engine has not run in a while. Dry cylinder walls and valve seals/seats, you get the idea. Again, the connections would be the difference between years. Get a carbed distributor to make certain you have the correct one. But, in a pinch, any should produce fire! If you can not find one let me know. I have several distributors on the parts shelf in the garage.

My take on this is as follows... Brakes are critical! If there is an issue it must be repair immediately. For your safety and the safety of those on the road with you. The mechanical side sounds like the pads have been replaced a few times without turning the rotors. Fronts usually have enough material to be turned a couple of times. I think it would be a good idea to go through your brakes considering you do not know the history of them. And, considering their present condition. MAke sure that you clean and regrease the slide pins and slide bolts. That is the number 1 reason for brake issues on the front of most Subarus. And the machinist also has more than you behind him to worry about when turning drums and rotors. If he turns the rotors below minimun and there is an accident brake related or not. He wil become liable. No business owner is going to risk his livelyhood to save you a couple of bucks.

Try to find the same year. Different years have different connections. Some were plugged and some were attatched to the distributor by nuts. Get a carbed model as well.

That is a good price. Verify s/h before ordering. A properly jetted and adjusted Weber is a superior upgrade. I can help adjust it if neccessary. A specific kit for a Subaru should have correct jetting.

If you insist on posting behind all of my posts at least get it right. The EGR is not an issue if you keep the intake form the car on the new engine. EGR is part of the intake. By doing it this way there is not a check engine light. The ECU has no problems running the EJ22 either. 97+ not 96+ are single port. Irregardless of interference or not the timing belts should be maintained per Subaru service intervals.

I checked car-part.com and it appears that the 01 and 02 Legacy are the only interchange for the caliper. Brightons have a different caliper as well.

Aren't you still under factory warranty? I do not know if they will interchange, I would be checking the warranty first.

Nice score. Can't beat the price that's for sure. They are very nimble but the short wheel base can lead to problems. Be careful on steep grades and side hills. You will have a blast in it!

Sounds like they broke the ball joint retaining bolt. Very common but not a big deal. Drill and rethread, install a new bolt...done. If the knuckle needed to be replaced then there is more to the story on their end. Get all the parts returned to you. Does sound like they are trying to cover their own butts here. Why else would they give you parts for cost and split the labor costs without you asking for it? Be very careful and do not sign any releases from them. I wouldn't even sign the work order without noting the problems and having the manager sign it as well. Make sure you get warrantee backing for the replacement parts and all work doen by them. Make them note it and sign it as well.

Remove the intake from the EJ18. Bolt it onto the EJ22 and you are done. The exhaust will fit if it is a '96 and older EJ22. Otherwise, you need the header from the later motor. Some other advice... Look for new thread button next time. You find a search function here as well. These have been swapped many times and all the info needed to do it is here for the finding. Enjoy your stay.

All the radiator shops in my region will not service a plastic tanked radiator. It would be a lot less expensive for the end-user if they would though.

OK, maybe you can tell us all how this is not part of the tank. If the inlet is brittle enough to break than the radiator itself is also getting too brittle. Replace it!

Yes, .20/.25mm is accurate. Should read .008/.010" as well if you do not have a metric feeler gauge.

Tanks are not servicable. JB Welding any part of a radiator to get it off the road would be acceptable. To do it instead of a proper repair or replacement is only asking for problems.

I should not have a problem making this. Add me to the list!

First, skimming is not the fault of those "with no lives". The information is available to everyone who looks for it. Second, Darwin will take care of the other 97%. Seriously though, people rely way too much on other things instead of themselves. Most Subaru owners are starting to act like the other idiots with 4WD. I can go anywhere therefore I should do so at regular speeds and the car should adapt to me. You still have to stop. You still need to take the conditions into account. You still need to be in control. If you have to slow down to be in control then guess what... SLOW DOWN! It's not rocket science. It is simple mechanics

What are you talking about. You make no sense. ABS doesn't work you say. It should be a perfect system. Cruise control shut down. Really? The bottom line is the system works exactly as it was designed. It is not an auto-pilot. It should not tell you the intersection ahead is icy. You should know it or at the very least suspect that the intersection is icy. The ambient temp, moisture in the air, blah, blah, blah. You have to come up with a better arguement. Sounds more like you can not adjust to conditions. I drive one way every day and the weather should adjust to me. Really, think about it before you type it. Nipper, Well stated on every level!

If you would read my post you would also note that I said by using neutral and downshifting it works fine. If you just use the brakes in snow and ice with the car in drive you will continue to have problems. I drove in the worst ice storm ever in the NW with no issues. I am sure I could do the same there. I am not questioning "your" driving ability. Just wondering why no one uses other means for braking. That is all, nothing more. My biggest point was to learn to use the systems provided. Not to disable the safety equipment!

The Gator-grip worked?!? I have one in the original package still. Cool though.

You can unbolt it. It comes apart in two pieces. Just jack up the car in the rear. Spin a tire, if the other spins the same direction it is LSD. If not, it is open. Yes, even works for the VLSD.

I am going to say that you are right. Both of the charts referenced here show that the trans code lists as a 3.90 FD. I would take the time to check the rear diff to verify that they match as well. http://www.gearhack.com/docs/Subaru%20Transmission%20Chart.html.files.hidden/Subaru%20Tranny%20Chart.pdf

Subaru retro-fitting or Vanagon forums will be where you need to spend time.

Other than E-brakes...