Qman

Bucky and Moosens are in Conn. Both spend more time in old school forums as well as bunch of others within an hours or so drive. They have good connections, and a large network, and can do a majority of the stuff themselves.

Do you own a vice? Open the vice enough to allow the lug nut to fit but not tight. Set the socket on the vice lug nut down. Take a punch and drive out the lug nut.

I can appreciate that. I had a set of interior tools so that wasn't a problem. But, not everyone can have that many duplicates though.

I don't think that is what people are doing. You asked for examples and that is what people gave. Don't take it personally.

I don't know what to tell ya. I drive the OB in snow, ice, dirt, gravel, etc... Never had a problem stopping. So does my wife without issue. Knowing how the system works does not mean you know how to work the system.

No access from the bottom... cross member is in the way!

That's right... a clean tool is a well used tool!!

Exactly, a little oil is actually good. Otherwise, they will or can rust.

The zero offset wrench is the winner. I bought one(10-12mm) years ago from Snap-on. It was ~ $20.00. I used it for EA82 water pump nuts. I also have found that it works great for the flex plate bolts. The key for any wrench or socket is that the threads have to reach the edge. If they do not you will find the situation you are currently in. To get this one out you will need either a 6 point socket or wrench. You may have to remove the intake to get proper access to it. Do not use heat or a torch anywhere near the main harness connections. You will end up in more trouble than you have now.

The easiest thing I have found in the 30+ yrs of wrenching to keep my tools clean is to clean them(wipe down with a shop rag) and put them away immediately after using them. No secret sauces or cleaners required. Rachets will from time to time to be disassembled and new grease added. But other than that, just clean up when you're done is the best advice I could give any young mechanic.

Removing the fuse is not considered a good idea. Proper driving techniques are the answer to this problem. Nipper has touched on the best way to handle this. Especially in an automatic equipped vehicle. By shifting into neutral you remove the force that causes the slides when braking. Do this only when coming to a stop. This will allow for engine and pedal braking. The trans does not know the road conditions. It's job is to drive or push the car. When braking on slippery surfaces the wheels with the least resistance will stop. Usually the fronts because rotors hold much better with less force. Add AWD now it is pushing all 4 wheels. ABS is designed to pulse the brakes and avoid locking to allow for controlled braking. I find it hard to believe that all you foul weather drivers have not figured this out or been taught in while learning to drive. It was one of the first things I learned as a kid learning to drive. ABS in a manual trans car is as easy as pushing in the clutch. It isn't the system it is the operator not knowing how to handle the system. Sorry, just my opinion. But, feel free to search out foul weather driving tips. Remember, disabling a safety system will revoke insurance coverage. Could move the blame for an accident to you, your fault or not due to tampering. Taking your own life into your own hands is one thing. But doing it on a public throughfare is another thing all together.

No, it is disconnecting the driveshaft of an AWD vehicle.

Yes, still engaged. The same still applies.

While axles do generally act this way have you checked the trans fluid level. Auto trans dip stick is located on the drivers side. I had a shutter on my wife's Outback and thought it was an axle. Found it to be a little over half a quart low. Topped it off and the shutter went away. Not saying it isn't your axles but it won't hurt to check fluid levels will it?

That would be because they ARE the same! The 2wd is different.

A picture would help to see the extent of the damage. Ideally, gently rub the gouge with sandpaper, dremel or the like. DO NOT take any more material out. Just remove the sharp edges. This will not hurt the cam. It will "hold" a little extra oil is all.

Very nice fab work. I also use the 5sp crossmember for my swaps. I love to see creative fabrication.

XT 2wd drive rear coil-overs are longer, IIRC. Something about the mounting is slightly different. Either location or top bracket. I honestly can't remember exactly what it is for sure though.

Your opinion has nothing to do with PO people. It is simply your delivery. You shoot your mouth off with nothing to back it up with. You quote people singling them out with bashing their opinions with your own. Treat people better and they will not get PO'd at you.

You are only partially correct. Obviously, your 35 yrs makes you an expert and everyone else knows nothing. Back off the slams to others and think before you speak. Dude, if you have something that provides what you need do it. Subaru is not the end all of auto's. I have owned, driven, worked on and destroyed too many different cars to remember. I have owned over a hundred Subaru's. 10 different Chevy trucks, a couple fords, Olds, Chevy... every brand has a benefit. Some have more than others some less. The most important thing is to find the one that fits what you need at the moment. Be it a Subaru or a Plymouth it really doesn't matter. Anyone who thinks otherwise is extremely naive and uneducated. Hey hiney, what makes your skillz better than others. Driving school, million miles over the road or just your ego? Seriously, that statement is over the top to say the very least.

Seriously? You just took a 2 hr job and made it at least a four hour ordeal.

VF-39 and TD-04 have both been swapped to EA82T. Should be a lot of info of you do a search for it.

You can go into 4WDHI at any speed. However, you should not go into 4WDlo above 30mph. (It will drive faster than 30 just don't go into it above 30) The clutch should be used when you shift into 4WD. Less pressure put on the drivetrain that way. And recommended by Subaru. As already stated, different sized tires or pressures will cause binding. Also, make sure the wheels are all going straight. As turning can cause the system to not engage. Usually, if having trouble getting out of 4WD backing up will rid the bind. Do not adjust the linkage unless you have a transmission manual. You should never have to adjust the linkage unless someone has already mis-adjusted the linkage. I may have an '86 manual. I'll check and let you know.

You will not solve all your problems. You'll have to check the oilpassages to verify they will swap. You can run a solid lifter on a hydraulic cam but not the other way around. I wouldn't do it but to each his own.

It was a theory but never proven. I really doubt it as the tube and bends combined for about 5-6 feet in length,