Qman

Yep, had that problem before. Go to search, then advanced search, then enter snorkle/snorkel in the keyword area, then enter.

Also, a search revealed these posts. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=900640 Some are very old and have bad links but the info is there for the finding.

Here's a better pic of the snorkle.

For a lot of water these are required. My Hatch and Brat had these. Also, you'll need to seal the disty to keep water out of there as well. Not hardly! The "for show" guys didn't go where the Hatch Patrol went. Partially true. We had a lot of times where both water amd dust were an issue. There were several times when water up to the windshield was the norm. Here is my snorkel. I have not found any pics of the engine compartment though. This was before the snorkel

No, good job. As soon as you said slop I remembered what the problem probably was gonna be. Been a long time since I messed with these. I didn't find the bushings last night Briggs. I'll look some more tonight.

Well, first off info about the vehicle would be nice. Sounds like a possible O2 sensor or jumped time from all the info you have given so far.

There is absolutely no reason to use 4wd on dry pavement. Rule of thumb is dirt, gravel, ice or snow. If it isn't present do not use it. Also, push button can be engaged on the fly under 30mph.

That's a video. There is a lot of slop.

It may very well be bad. But until you replace the bushing you run the risk of killing another one.

Oh yeah, that is it! I think I still have a couple bushings at home. I will check and let Rob know. Ken

Oh hell, I can't believe I didn't think of this earlier. Slop=bad bushing. Check shaft play. It could also be causing spikes if it contacts. Could explain the over-heated wires and connector.

I was talking to Rob, check the modules in the disty. Could be that everytime you change out the coils that you are improving the connections there.

Briggs, bypass that connection and the problem will be solved. The plastic melts causing a bad connection. Take the wires out of that connector and reconnect them with good ends. I had the same thing happen only in my case it would not shut off. Redid the connection and never had problems again.

Keeping parts that are in disrepair is just lazy.

What EA82 or EJ experience do you have?

Everyone talks about failure and replacing the belts in short time, blah, blah, blah... Use new parts when doing the timing belts and they last. Use crappy or used parts and they will fail prematurely. I would not want any dirt, excess dust, mud or other debris anywhere near my belts or idlers. As far as covers coming loose... tighten the bolts... use loctite... A qulity skid plate will only keep solid items out of the lower engine compartment. Muddy water still has free access to everything in the engine compartment. Ultimately, it is the individuals decision. To each his own.

As I said before... the only reason for going to a larger filter on a Subaru(that is what we are referencing after all) is for more capacity. It will still catch the same size particulates. It will only filter it's own capacity at any given time. And there you have it. The reason for by-pass. It is designed that way to save the engine. Not for filtration! And the most you'll get to fit a Subaru application would be another half quart any way. A rather mute point in the big scheme of things. If you want to carry a larger capacity than switch out to a WRX oil pan. It will give you a full 5qt capacity. Now, we can go back to modifying those well-built parts!!

Think about this for a minute... Ever modify a Subaru part to make it better? [cricket sounds from afar] Back on topic... Filtration is important on smaller engines. Choosing the correct filter for your application is just as important. Even CCR's requirement is based on opinion. While I do not disagree with it it is just an opinion. Bigger is not always better. The correct application is though.

Quidam and GD... get back to the OP topic or deletion will follow. Everyone here has an opinion. There is a thread of truth in all of them. Bottom line... a larger filter does not mean better filtration. What a larger filter will allow is a slight increase in capacity. Nothing more. As far as dry sumps and full race/cpmpetition oil systems... not designed for a commuter. Period, end of discussion. Higher end filters will give better filtration than cheaper ones. It comes down to the element. Better elements cost more therefore the filter also costs more. Napa gold, Top line Fram, Subaru oem, top line Purolator all provide a better element which will trap more particulates. And all of those comes with an anti drain valve.

I know this car. It is absolutely spectacular. It is Steve's personal car. It is not for sale. The "old" Forester STi is for sale though. $25K

Sounds like the O2. I just replaced mine. No power until half throttle or better. Very crappy gas mileage. All better now though.

$55.56

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Freeze plugs? What freeze plugs?

+1 After doing the head gaskets on the wifes '98 Outback I really appreciate my SOHC motor so much more. It is a PITA just to pull the plugs. No big deal really. I won't have to do them again for about 5yrs. By then it should be gone for the next one.