Qman

I am pretty sure he didn't do it for you anyway! As far as potholes go... all you have to do is pay attention to the road and that problem is solved.

Reclocked the rear torsion bar. Cut front springs. Not rocket science.

Is it doing the same thing as the last time it wouldn't start?(2 months ago) What fixed it then?

Very nice. She seems very nice. Good luck!

OK, talk soon.

Get on it!! Where has that brother of yours been?

Check out the repair manual. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49952

Only those who seriously offroad would know that Scott. I re-enforced mine with 1/4" tubing/pipe. The only problem with that is you no longer have your "fuse" there. It is much easier to carry a few radius rods then it is to carry body mounts or control arms. There was a lengthy conversation regarding this exact thing. People were wanting to reenforce every part on the suspension. The problem with that is that you lose your known weak point and no longer know what is going to break. Just a grain of salt to throw over your shoulder.

LOL, funny... I am sure Dave is glad so many of you do nothing to your wagons. Makes it easier to win best wagon, best swap, best GL...

Stumbling, rough idle, sparatic condition are symptoms of a dirty or failing MAF or MAP. It could even be as easy as an intermittent vacuum leak. Does the power loss ever happen at other times other than up hill? Could be as suggested earlier as a failing catalytic converter.

Option #1 is the only way. Anything else would be sketchy at best during the summer cutting season. Besides, if you had any issues along the way help would be passing by you instead of trying to find you.

The term "reprogrammimg" may only mean that they are going to clear all previous codes. Diagnostic fee? I would suggest that you find another dealer or Subaru specific repair shop.

Sounds like the beginning stages of a bad MAF. I have had two go bad in the last year. They all gave similar symptoms before they went bad. The last one had pinging, rough idle and missing. Assumed the knock sensor to be the culprit. Not the case though. The MAF finally threw a code right before it completely crapped out. You might try cleaning it but it sounds like replacement is needed. Throwing parts at it is very frustrating. Definitely not the way to go. Do you have a friend or board member that lives near you? Better to try a known good one before buying a new one. Though, I believe yours may only be around $50-75.00. Good luck, this type of thing can be very frustrating. Don't give up on it though.

Middle out, inside out, with a torque of 13 ft lbs. It is aluminum and you can pull the threads with too much torque. I also add a touch of anti-sieze to the threads of each bolt, out of habit.

While I agree with Shawn I also disagree. Being a racer myself the "luxury" of a trailer to haul the broken car home is always better than the alternative. I might also suggest that you look into getting a motor home and trailer. It will give you a lot more room on your trips. It makes travelling so much nicer. There is a larger fuel bill but no room fees. It sort of offsets itself. I nice 18-20 foot trailer can be had for $1000-2000 used/new if you shop around. What sort of racing does you husband do? Here is a decent looking one, http://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/rvs/1177782033.html

Rick, don't you mean they are sort of rare? You have only seen a dozen in the last few years? I mean, you see an average of 5 wagons a day or more and you only have seen a dozen in 2-3 years. It's all in the perspective... half full or half empty... lol!

That has to be the most rediculous thing I have ever seen you write Gary. EJ25's do not overheat and blow head gaskets. They leak through the head gasket, the owner neglects them and they run low on water and then over heat. I am really tired of all the EJ25's suck, they are garbage replace them with a lesser engine replies. The only issues they have had are the seeping headgasket issue(resolved with updated HG's) and piston slap when they are cold. They are very reliable. They produce good power and decent fuel economy. They accept mods easily. The only reason they have a bad rap is because the same people who tell users to search for the answers themselves do not. If it was such a bad design I doubt the manufacturer would still run the same displacement and design today, some 15 years later. But, don't let me stop you from throwing out those horrible 2.5's. I love getting them cheap and swapping them into other Subaru's or selling them to people who put them into sand buggys and other offroad rigs.

Generally, if they make noise there is another issue. Usually, it involves the oil pump. Delta Cam does have new lifters available at about half what dealer charges. You should pull the pump and check clearances between the gears. If that checks out make sure you have a good set of gaskets and o-rings and then consider replacing the lifters. They will not bleed off and not pump back up if they are good.

+1, one of the first performance mods on a N/A Subie should be the exhaust system.

Can you detail the swap a bit more? Which parts did you use? BTW, the car senses the "Honda" bond and is now retaliating!

'67 SS 375hp/396 It is absolutely gorgeous. My Mom had a '67 SS convert 375hp/396. She got rear ended by some girl in a '78 Toyota SW and totalled it. Such a sad day and waste.

Yeah, pay no nevermind to the full 442 running gear plus the built motor... Do not hate on the wagons Flow... One of the only people to rallycross an EA82 wagon... religiously, BTW! And one more. This is one of the nicest black paint jobs I have seen in years!

Sure, I'll pick you up at the airport. Maybe get them to pay it as a business expense.