Qman

Yes, several rivers and streams in the area. We'll just need to keep an eye on the area as it gets closer.

Still working on specifics. We'll announce something soon.

Someone on here may have a spare to sell for a lot less. It is not what most people call a pcv. Do you have the part numbmer off of yours? There is no way to make the ecu think it is there and working unless it is!

While I have owned two of the most famous lifted Subarus. I miss my Hatch sometimes. I miss my little lifted Brat(4") more than I miss the big lifted Brat(10"). I have seen Subaru's taken as far as they can go. Between Zap and myself we have probably wheeled a Subaru in every possible condition. We have followed Jeeps, Samauris, 'yotas, you name it. Yes, we did it but it was difficult, usually broke stuff and held up the group. When we would go to Evans Creek with a group of Subarus we would be lucky to do 2 trails. Usually stopping to repair broken axles or struts. Waiting for smoked clutches to cool. Now, enter the Toyota. Stock engine, stock transmission, 6" lift already installed, 35" tires and 4.30/1 gear ratio. $1000. Needed a clutch and water pump to be road/trail ready. This goes anywhere I want it to go. I do not worry about breaking things, I did break a "J" arm on the first outing. But that was my fault. Had to learn the truck and haven't had a problem since. Now, when we wheel we see most of the trails. A day of wheeling means we wheeled for the whole day. I have made a couple of upgrades to the truck that makes it even better. A welded rear diff, on-board welder and air system, front ARB will be added soon. The only thing that I may add after that would be a second t-case. I have a flat bed for it already and it should be done. I will wheel the heck out of it until the frame rots. May be the last wheel I buy!

Put a thermostat in it. Sounds like there isn't one. Do you get heat only when driving? Or does it work when you are sitting still with the engine revving over 2K?

Do you have a confirmed date yet. I am working on my truck and it would be helpful to know!

Sorry, I just hate seeing random rumor and misleading information. The NW wheelers have done huge things with cleaning up Reiter and mapping it out. Just wish people would check their info before posting it to the internet.

No, what I am saying is that outdated information is just that, outdated information.

You did notice that the link you gave is over 3 yrs old, right?

The answer is YES! Lower air pressure will aid in traction. It allows the tire to be more pliable and it will grip better. I can lower the air pressure in my 2wd Suburban and get any where that a 4WD rig can go in the snow. I did this exact thing on Friday when we had compact snow and ice on all of our roads. Worked wonderfully and got me home without issue.I dropped mine in half. I would suggest that you go to 25psi.

I'll be needing a fix. I'll keep an eye on this. Maybe Zap and a friend will go as well. That would be 2 toys and 1 Jeep if there are no objections.

OK, my turn... Most people that tell you to not use a phase2 EJ25 do not even own one. 30hp is more power, period. My old Impreza(1.8) and my new '95 Impreza(2.2) project run the phase2 EJ25. I also used the original vehicles engine harness and components. I also ran a few other things to make it better. Intake, exhaust, lightened flywheel, PP6 piggyback, Delta 1000 grind cams. 160/158 at the wheels seems to be an upgrade to me. No head gasket issues. Still gets 28 mpg on the highway. Each swap is a little different than the next. The year of the donor motor. The year of your project. All must be considered when building a swapped car. MT, sounds like you got the 2000 grind. If you were looking for torque you should have done the 1000 grind. With the DOHC motors we have started doing the cams several different ways. Either with new valves(longer stems)($500) or with welded lobes($600.00) or with the head packages we offer. Shimming can be a problem and that is why we sell them this way now. And as the pricing goes... we do offer "specials" from time to time. There are a few ways to keep costs down. Send us your cams and we do all the work to your cams and that way you do not have a core charge. $200.00 is one fo the cheapest mods you can do to a Subaru engine. Has anyone priced an intake or exhaust system lately. And, cams give more power/dollar than any single mod excpet a turbo upgrade. We have also done sort of a lay-a-way program. Make small payments and when you are paid up we send you out your cams. As far as the swap goes, any improvement is just that... an improvement! The 2.2's are bullet-proof but they are not indestructable! I have seen idler/tensioner pulleys eat themselves. Harmonic balancers seperate and even come off. The MAFs go bad all the time. They even blow HG's from time to time. Everything has an upgrade. EA81 < EJ22 and EJ22 < EJ25 and EJ25 < Turbo swap. Everything is relative. Just remember, no matter what you do... enjoy the ride!

If Jon OK'd it then yes.

Thank you for all the interest and purchases. I hope all are excited and happy with their purchases.

It is pretty simple really. The original cost of a Subaru in 1984 was about $3500 US i for a base model. What did the Mercedes cost then at least $10,000 US? There in lies the difference. And to answer your original question... 10% saving per car would be $350.00 multiplied by 1 million units(number used for simplicity)... my math tells me that equals $350,000,000. Seems like a no-brainer to me! Fix it right and you would not be having these problems. Be it your fix or the fix of the previous owner(s). Exhaust studs and head bolts usually strip or come out because some no brainer grease monkey over torqued or used air tools to tighten them. That is why torque specs are so important when dealing with aluminum parts.

It is a lot further than most of you will find comfortable. The carb doesn't buck or anything. It just runs out of fuel. We have documented over 45 degrees, might even have been close to 50.

Are you positively going to be there? I have purchased them for others in the past only to have them not show up. Which leaves me holding an extra permit. You can buy them that day from the Ranger station that day. They are just up the road.

You do not need JB weld. You do not need to weld. You do not need any other dramatic or exotic repair. All you have to do is have the holes spot faced from the rear. Only as large as the head of the stud. When I did mine years ago I just ground down the area. They held fine, and trust me when I tell you, they were put to the test.

Try a new module in the distributor. Or just pop in a different distributor and see what happens.

Remove that thought from your mind immediately. I would be so inclined to help remove them if I saw them in person.

Is it OK if you have a dog?!!??

Brian, call me at the shop. We sell a steel guide replacement timing set. Wish I would have seen this sooner. We also sell an inexpensive torque cam. It really brings the bottom end torque to life. Ken 1-800-562-5500

Yes, you can add the factory tach cluster. Plug and play!

If you go to Site Help and Suggestions you will find a couple of threads that will assist you. There is not a way to change it permanently but you can do it to read a thread. There are a few Subaru techs that are members. There are a few people who became techs from learning how to work on their Subaru's here. Most are enthusiasts who just do their own repairs and love their cars. But yes, there is indeed a huge database of information here. Now for the disclaimer... SoA is in no way affiliated with this site. They support a lot of the endeavours of some of our members but they do not support this site directly.

There is not a vendor icon. There is not a screening process either. We currently welcome legitiment vendors to our site free of charge. Be glad vendors are searching us out. We need all the vendor support we can get! Welcome Speedy and please share some information about yourselves!