Qman

Nice report Brian. Funny thing is after running it in 2003 I felt the same way. While it was fun to do once in my life time. I doubt I would drive 1500 miles to do it again. Moab, is another place I want to run but only once.

Now that is funny sh**! The one truly manageable V-8 option is ging to be a 215 buick. Lightweight, buildable for either supercharger or NOS. Will run down the road nicely in N/A form as well. A 9" ford rear axle from a early falcon or mustang that is around 53" would easily handle the power without modification. A power glide trans for durability and BIG burnouts.

I believe the entire Wild West Rally has been cancelled. This would include the rally cross.

And, $8K is a steal after what he put into it. The Barci family still owns both the Hatch and the Brat.

Generally, if you see a car with faster than normal blinkers it is because they have after-market lights, ie, Altezza or other brand. They do not have the correct load on the circuits for the flasher. They blink fast because they are not right, not because they are cool...

Indeed

The cam is not flat. Or it would not run "good" at low rpm's. Something else is wrong. Either fuel delivery, not enough pressure not big enough jets in the secondaries or too big for that matter.

I have to ask... how can you guarentee this? If it is stamped EA81 it is a 1800cc engine. They never made a 1600cc EA81. Just didn't happen. (On any continent). Like was said tune it. Verify there are no restrictions and that the distributor is operating properly.

The one thing that is usually different between a Legacy and Impreza is the electronics. The plugs, pin outs, bits and pieces are different. The swap is not tough. The difficulty lies in the wiring merge. There are a couple guys who are pretty good at it though. Try "Numbchux", he does a few of these. He may be able to help.

I would be interested in a couple of electrical parts. Let me know by pm if you decide to part it please.

First, you'd search... then, you'd install an equal length header then cams. No other way.

I appreciate you following up. I stand corrected. What correction did you use? What dyno did you use? I agree that every engine build is different. I see you did a bit more work than just swapping in SPFI though. The extra air flow definitely made a difference. Ken

The body change was for the 1982 model year. The 1981's had 1800 and dual range 4sp.

Not sure of your source on the HP numbers but they are flawed. Installing a Weber might but unproven numbers. It will respond better. You will not gain 19HP by swapping in SPFI. You will get a better delivery system that is more efficient. Hence the gain in fuel mileage. Also, you can not deck your heads .030 without modifying your intake mounting holes. Then, you run the risk of the water ports not matching up properly which will cause overheating. Please keep your information accurate and maybe cite some sources when doing so if you have not dyno'd the vehicle to prove your numbers.

So, what you're saying is that you would rather buy a $1000.00 car and repair things as they break than to buy a $250.00 car and put $750.00 into it and know what is right/wrong with it. Now, that makes perfect sense...

That is your opinion. Just because you get them cheap does not mean others do. Just because you tell everyone that they suck does not mean they do. Abuse is abuse. Legacy, Loyale, GL doesn't mean crap. Each vehicle is unique as to needs and requirements for repair. People making blanket statements is simply ignorant.

Call Delta Cam, 1-800-562-5500. The have lifters and will give you a great deal on them.

Should I throw away my 86 GL-10 turbo with 244K on the original engine then? Rediculous..... again I am about to delete every "I hate the EA82" posts/responses. It may not even be the head gaskets. It may just be a broken timing belt. For $250 it would be a good deal even if you have to replace a head. The 88 will have gen3 heads least likely to crack of all the generations of heads. Cracking is OK, but, seperation is not.

That is the problem with the internet. Everyone is quick to post and blow up the 'net with the bad. It is very rare to see anyone take the time to tell people the good. Let's say people who have dealt with CCR and CCR themselves post here from this point forward. Good or bad post it up. Real life experience, nothing else!

Please repost in the craigslist forum with a link. Otherwise, it really has no merit.

If it pings check timing. Either bad gas, stretched belts or bad/worn tune up parts will cause this. If it has been going on for a while check parts. If it just started after fueling up check bad fuel.

First, your hatred for the 2.5 is showing. All the symptoms are classic radiator. Period. You already said the gaskets look to have been done. If they were bad or badly done they would be either leaking externally or internally which would result in steam from the exhaust. Several people told you the radiator. Yet, you replaced the thermostat. The thermostat is inexpensive. But, had you taken the advice given you would be done...

Gary, quit throwing parts at it. Many people have told you the problem and solution. Don't be one of those people. The ones that ask a question they do not know the answer for then question all the answers. REPLACE THE RADIATOR!

You guys kill me. Show me one mechanic that works for free and I will show you a broke and hungry mechanic. Thousands and thousands of dollars worth of tools, training and overhead. How do you suppose he pays for all of that? By doing jobs for free?

A lightweight flywheel works very well in a moodded Impreza. 4 cylinder motors do not have a problem with a lightened flywheel. If you drive comservative then a lightened FW is not for you. If you want quicker revs and improved throttle response then it is. You will find that it will not lug the lower rpm's like a stock FW. If you do not have any other mods or do not plan to do mods then I would recommend against it. <This post written without the use of emoticons>