MR_Loyale

Been a while since I worked with 6800 opcodes and operands. I have worked with 68HC11 protoboards so if this bears any resemblance it may be possible. I will give it a look. If this is a Motorola 6800 based instruction set the data is in big endian format. Still looking at the manual.

I think I have enough expertise to give it a shot with the BIN file. I could make a snarky post listing my 30+ years doing hardware and software, my BSCS with minors in mathematics and physics, USAF stint in hardware, my published articles in my field going back to 1986 or even highlight the article I wrote about hacking the palm pilot binary format in 2001 or brag about being a software engineer who did a stint at Microsoft but that should not be necessary. No one is paying me and I am not asking permission. Hell I will probably even fail though I haven't even specified what it is I am intending other than poking around. Let an old man have his fun will ya?

I wonder if a Motorola 6800 decompiler would work.

Congrats

Is there a test for CTS? I don't think they are very accurate even when they are working properly. That is a good suggestion.

Worth a shot. Send me the BIN file. What is the processor in the ECU? Knowing this and the opcodes might give a clue,

Probably the idle down is when it happens. Makes sense. The reason I ask is that I have two Loyales and both of these exhibit the following behavior exactly: Morning is cold. I go out start up with no warm up and drive off. I go down the hill where I live and stop at the bottom. The I turn right up a very long hill. Shifting from first to second is no problem. I accelerate then go to shift into third and the engine lurches as if to die and I have to hold the clutch and feather the pedal to keep it alive briefly and back to second to crawl up the hill at a max of 30 mph. All the while the speedsters are on my rear honking their horn. This is repeatable and has happened regularly to me. By the top of the hill in seconds, it shifts normal and heat blows hot. This lurching only happens if I do not warn up until it has idled down. If it has idled down, no problem. Having had the white loyale since new, I can say I don't recall that ever happening until recently. Could this be a relation of open loop mode and a restricted cat such that open loop cannot compensate? Just guessing here. I was always told it didn't matter to warm up the engine first. The cars: 93 Loyale FWD 183k miles, 92 Loyale 4WD on stick 185K miles.

No tears and cushioning is intact. Want a pic or two?

Does anyone have any ballpark times it takes the EA82 to switch from open loop to closed loop? I am well aware that it varies depending on the temperature. So for example, say it is 30 degrees farenheit. Or is the idle bump down more indicative of this? Can closed loop mode happen BEFORE idle bump down?

I have an extra driver's side seat if you are interested pm my for pics.

I too had problems with them. They seem to just box up some random crap no matter what you ordered.

WHAT?!!??? They made a version of the distributor that wasn't held on with a screw that falls out???? Oh Subaru (not talking about you Jeszek), I thought I knew you but you have been holding back on me ALL THESE YEARS! How realistic would it be to swap one of these new fangled clip rotor distributors into an existing EA82 that is screwed?

Thus Mr_loyale's first rule of first time repair of anything- Take a picture of everything as you go BEFORE you take it off.

Useful for driving in the Southern hemisphere.

Did my annual iac maintenance for wandering idle. A capful of Berryman's in the valve, sit 5 min, start. Repeat. Idle is now rock solid.

If you bring the car up to temp, turn heater full blast. Is it significantly hotter when you Rev the engine to 2500 vs idle? The heater core can get clogged with scale. Let it cool, the disconnect the coolant lines that go to the firewall such that the hoses connect to the firewall but you can still hook a hose. A pulse of air or water on the intake hose followed by a flush usually cleans this up enough to allow the heater core to work better.

Take it to a different inspection station.

Fuel filter? Check gas tank for debris. Injector?

Does anyone know if the 2017 BRZ with the "track apps" includes a 0-60 timer? The description in the brochure is vague. I know it has a G meter and live torque curve etc in the new lcd on the dash.

Mods depend on how much time and money you are willing to spend to get to the "next level". Is this your project or daily driver? If it was in pieces for six months to so swaps, mods and other changes, would that be a problem? Is money no object? More data is needed before a proper answer can be given. For right now, how about a nice wash and good coats of McGuires to keep that body in good shape? If they use salt on your roads,an undercoat might be helpful.

Took the day off today to go to the JY and get the replacement HVAC control unit. Now I can reliably get heat to my windshield in my red sedan. Another item off my list.

Pop the cover off the dome light (twist and pull) and look at the switch. The switch completes the circuit by bringing one side to ground. The fact that the light dome light comes on when the door is opened indicates the power is reaching the dome light. Did you put an LED in the dome light as well? You may have knocked out a contact in the process. The lights in the dash have nothing to do with the dome light.

From Star Wars: Obi-Wan: "That boy is our last hope." Yoda: "No...there is another..." Searching for an HVAC unit at Row52, I called up the Loyales and this came up: https://row52.com/Vehicle/Index/JF2AN52BXRD421569 I don't believe that Subaru ever made a yellow Loyale. Jezek - did you move up to Washington?? I am tempted to buy it just to have a "Bumblebeast North". LOL

This weekend I finally got to the HVAC controls on the red sedan. They never wanted to keep air on the windshield or go to heat. They would just go to the middle vents. So either it was the control unit, lines or flapper valves deeper into the dash. I pulled the main cover around the cluster and took the vacuum lines off. I had vacuum to the unit, I could feel it with my hand by removing the unmarked tube. I then put the vac line up to the #2 hose and it flipped the air, so I know the switching unit is bad. Off to the JY to get one.

This weekend I finally got to the HVAC controls. They never wanted to keep air on the windshield or go to heat. They would just go to the middle vents. So either it was the control unit, lines or flapper valves deeper into the dash. I pulled the main cover around the cluster and took the vacuum lines off. I had vacuum to the unit, I could feel it with my hand by removing the unmarked tube. I then put the vac line up to the #2 hose and it flipped the air, so I know the switching unit is bad. Off to the JY to get one.