MR_Loyale

Check your state attorney general website for more information on remedies you have. Also BBB has a dispute resolution process: https://www.bbb.org/bbb-dispute-handling-and-resolution/ In the future it might be best to check the VIN before your write the check. On that note, how did you pay? If check or card, you can stop payment, If the guy truly believes the engine is that great, he should be willing to exchange it. What has he got to lose if it is a good engine?

I would run ever test you could before I would go removing that assembly from the tank.

Ahem. The owner of USMB does work on older Subies. If you are looking for a shop to fix it, you should give them a call. http://retroroo.com

Not flawed at all in my book. Not every repair is a slam dunk. It is a sign of character to keep at it until you get it right. Mistakes and successes are both learning opportunities. Thanks for sharing and welcome.

Mine is spfi. Not sure if the carb version has an iac.

The idle air controller handles rpm at idle. Over time, gunk builds up and interferes with proper operation. You can clean it by putting a capful of Berryman's in the valve an let it sit for 8 minutes. Engine must be off when adding. Expect a longer start initially I do this annually and have never had idle issues.

I have racked my brain over leaking hoses with pin hole leaks that only leak at high revs. No rubber lasts forever. In my opinion, the miniscule dollars stretched by trying to push a hose beyond 10 years is dwarfed by the potential inconvenience of it breaking in the boonies. I know I would be kicking myself if I allowed a rubber hose to leave me stranded like that. But that is probablyjust me. I am weird.

Get one range above cheapo and a battery tender and sleep well.

Wow. After the kids see your thread, somehow I feel a roof rack won't cut it.

You may not like the answer, but all 4 I'd the correct one. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://auto.howstuffworks.com/replacing-tires.htm&ved=0ahUKEwiniOD57-fOAhWBXiYKHckuAssQFggkMAM&usg=AFQjCNGTcNy3qOrGd3mPUeG5IZyKBVF3zw&sig2=iGwxe2VQ6D0SqxdkQvLEbw

Sounds like a fun and very doable project. The Loyale is a great car for the beginning mechanic to learn on. Be sure to remember that the EA82 engine is non-interference so you can't break anything (but your pride) if you get the timing belts wrong. Also the timing positions of the belts are 180 degrees different on each side. This is unlike many other cars. This fact can trip up experienced mechanics who have done lots of timing belts but no Subaru belts. Might want to add an oil pump to the mix too as it is cheap insurance. Also replace any and all rubber seals and hoses you can easily get while you are in there. I have found removing the engine makes the timing belt easier to do and also give you a better understanding of the dimensions of the engine. I did the engine two years ago and set out on a trip across the country in the car afterwards. I have lots of pics of the take apart and assembly. You can see it at the link below: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/147673-uno-my-first/

That's a great story. Next year will be your 20th anniversary owning it "in the family". You should definitely try to get it ready for WCSS as a sort of celebration.

If the extended warranty is through Subaru, in state/out of state shouldn't matter. All the consumer groups generally recommend against getting an extended warranty though. Instead they say it pays just to take that money and keep it in an interest bearing account to cover any major repairs if needed. Please see the link below: http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/magazine/2014/04/extended-warranties-for-cars-are-an-expensive-game/index.htm The truth about warranty work, whether it is the original warranty or manufacturer extended warranty, is that no dealer likes doing that work because they get less compensation than they would if you paid for it out of pocket. And that dealer salesman is blowing smoke out his behind if he says you somehow will be treated special because you bought the warranty there. He will say anything to get you to buy it because he KNOWS in most cases you won't ever use it. And if four years down the road you do, no one at that dealership will even know your name. How could they possibly? In those four years or whatever, they will sell so many cars and stuff and the staff will change over so much that this fellow selling you (unless he owns the dealership) will be off selling shoes or sailboats on the other side of the country. Subarus are in general very reliable so it is unlikely you will need the warranty beyond the original period. How long do you plan to keep this car? How long did you keep your last car? If you change cars frequently, an extended warranty is a complete waste. Sales people like playing on your fears. Ask them why they think their product is so shabby it will require an extended warranty. If you are dead set on getting an extended warranty, never, ever, ever never never never get a third party warranty. If it isn't Subaru doing the warranty, run away. Third party warranties are a scam. As you can tell, I have a pretty strong opinion on this matter. I bought my Subaru new in 1994 and still have it as my daily driver. I never needed an extended warranty. I never had a regular warranty claim either. I will buy another new Subaru at some point and I will not buy any extended warranty. I will sleep soundly at night. Ahhhh. Life is good.

I laughed thinking to myself about future engine threads. "What is the ultimate EJ build?" to which the answer will be "Just FA it"

Easy out?

Oh if stereo wires are hanging, maybe someone tried wiring a stereo not realizing the Subaru has a common ground. You can blow fuses if you do the stereo wrong. Definitely get the Haynes manual at the very least.

Try this first. The rotor is held on by a screw and can fall off leaving the rotor not spinning.

If you want the exact replacement roundie relay, Google the number on the outsideof the can. It will reveal the oem supplier and you can get them for 8 bucks each. Subaru wants 40.

My Loyale is a feather compared to my Dodge Ram. 2400 is on the light side even for cars. Not the lightest but definitely not a pig.

Wow. So Gates is outsourcing to China now? Shame on them. I would rather pay more for a quality made part especially when it comes to critical components like timing parts. Time for an email. CorpComm12@gates.com

Please see the section on egr stuck open in the link below http://www.enkivillage.com/egr-valve.html Having a leak due to cross threading is probably very similar.

I must have been totally lucky all these years. The way you park can kill your oil pump. Got to let that one sink in.

Another possibility is that either the damper after the clamp is defective or the return line has a leak.

It could be the fuel pump is subpar in supplying pressure so to compensate, they blocked the return line. Only way to know for sure is to measure the pressure as stated above. A clue to the fuel pump might be to listen to how long it takes to charge. With the car off, turn the key to just before starting and you should hear the fuel pump charging the line. It should take about 3 seconds. If it is going much longer, suspect the fuel pump. ETA: Sometimes a failing fuel pump can be brought back temporarily by gently rapping on it with the HANDLE(wooden preferred) of a hammer. So one test would be to remove the clamp and wait for it to die then go in back and gently tap the body of the fuel pump. Try running again. If after a few "rap sessions" (OMG the puns just flow out lol), if the car appears to run OK even for a few minutes, then I would strongly suspect a failing fuel pump.

Where did you get the chrome wheel arch trim?