calebz

Ok, I'll bite. How much with shipping to 75070. If I get the job I am interviewing for on tuesday, I see a whole bunch of neat upgrades in my future. this will be at the top of the list

Hmm.. worked fine for me.. Heres another to supplement the above info.. a few questions are answered. More 5 lug stuff You might want to have someone look at your computer for you.. links aren't working.. search is broken... Give me some credit.. I'm really trying not to be a smartass

The LSD is 3.7 His car is probably not 3.9.. being an 87 GL-10 turbo, I can't see why it would have a 3.9.....

A lot depends on your location.. down here in TX, batteries don't last as long as the would in the NW.. the heat can be a real killer, as can the cold.. In WA, I have a 73 chevy Pickup.. battery was installed in 1993. Still going strong.. On the other hand, the battery in my soob was 2 years old when I moved to TX.. 3 weeks in the 100+ heat and it was a boat anchor..

Good deal Brat86. you're definitely on the right path

Did you put leather in there Ken? That seems to be at the top of the list for every LSi I have ever seen.. A 5 speed leather Legacy turbowagon would be pretty close to being my dream soob

I went to get my wires tonight.. took about 10 minutes to convince the guy at the counter that I wanted the 8mm universal Accell wires...for a subaru.. Then another 10 minutes to find out that the stock room was locked and the manager with the key won't be in until monday:temper: Soo ahh Torxx.. you got a part number on those wires brutha?

I would also check the coolant temp sensor.. they get corroded and can make those motors do some weird stuff.. often times they just need to have the contacts cleaned. IMO, its unlikely that a TPS would be the issue if its only a when the car is cold.

If it was manufactured in late 84, its an 85. Make sure you grab the rear diff with the tranny

No need to make a science of it really.. You just give it a little gas until you feel the synchros line up.. then it should just slip into gear .. smooth like butter:D

I had that problem in my 88 GL-10 turbo.. one of the large intake manifol wiring plugs wasn't seated properly and got all boogered up and corroded.. a little screwdriver, some electrical contact cleaner and some dielectric grease and it was good as new.. Dirty contacts on the TPS can also cause the pain you are feeling

Closer hell! Your in tumwater for gosh sakes! take a few hours on a friday night, saturday morning and drive to Eugene.. its not that far..

On the west coast, I would offer $100:D Back east, if its really clean and you already have the stuff to get rid of the autospastic tranny, $650 is not bad.. $800 if you really want it

Welcome to the board. this has got to be one of my favorite Soob pics(Credit to Qman and whoever took the pic)

Yes ma'am.. you re correct, change is a good thing. i wonder how many people threw a fit when subaru went from the ugly EA81 body to the slightly less ugly EA82.. Ahh hell.. it doesn't matter.. I have never owned a Subaru for its looks anyway..Pretty much any Roo on the road prior to the Legacy is uglier than sin anyway.. and early imprezas aren't terribly attractive either.. You can't blame a car company for trying to improve their image and make more money.. they are a business after all.. the whole purpose of a business is to make money

Sounds like a wheel bearing to me.

I'm starting to not like my soob.. its pissing me off more and more every day.. I'm sure that will pass though

Thanks Chris Nice score Will There are a couple of Gen II Rx7 ICs around here for obscenely cheap.. I know that they work well on the RX7, and being a topmount design and one of them having airflow ductwork attached, along with being wayyyy cheap makes them very attractive.

Are any of you turbo guys runnig an GenII RX7 IC? I was looking at a pic of one recently, and it looks like a decent match, but in the pic I could only see the inlet hose. the outlet hose wasn't visible.. anyone have one on their soob?

My manual is in paper format.. its hard to take my computer with its 21inch monitor under the hood of my car:lol: Were you referring to r&r of the rear diff? its pretty easy.. pop the pins on the rear axles, pull the 4 bolts that attach the drive shaft, then ubolt the 4(?) bolts that hold the diff to the diff hanger.. the hardest part tends to be removing thr ear axles.. but there are guys here with welded diffs that can pull one of those axles in 10 minutes.. I'll bet they would be happy to share their secrets

You show me yours and I'll show you mine...

I don't think the rear trailing arms from an XT6 will work.. I have been known to be wrong before though(shh.. don't tell anyone) I got lucky and got a shell of a wagon from XSNRG that already had the rear sway bar on it.. yay me!

the difference in ride height between the two sizes is only about 3/4 inch(1.5 inch diameter).. not enough to make a big difference in acceleration.

Once again, I am kicking myself for moving from washington...

Actually, over a production run of thousands of cars, it equates to a substantial savings for the manufacturer