calebz

$400? Those would be some damned expensive belts.. I must have a special EA82.. My belts aren't anywhere mear $200 a piece:D

Its possible for the turbo to go bad and squeal like a stuck pig without blowing smoke.. but its really hard to pinpoint noises over the internet:(

Nope.. 405 won't fit.. they are 4x100 I believe

older digidashes are known for problems like you describe.. the solder on the back gets crusty and crappy.. on my 87, I had the dancing temp gauge.. but it did it in time with my heater fan.. the higher the heater fan, the higher the temp gauge.. I added some extra grounds off the negative terminal of the battery and all problems went away

only when you go around corners? its AWD right? Hows your tires? sounds like torque bind...

I was waiting for that one to come up.. that has just one timing belt.. Kind of a huge EJ motor..

Something to keep in mind is that the lifts don't actully change the suspension/axle geometry. The just lift the body of the tranny/motor/rear diff mounts. Not sure if thats helpful to you at all.

Code 73 is the ignition pulse system, if that helps at all.

Yup, its under the console, part of the shifter assembly.. Found it when I had to bypass it for my 5 speed conversion.

Its there for a reason. Torxxx, Your car, GDs car and 90% of the cars on the old gen board are front wheel drive most of the time. comparing your handling characteristics, or GD's EA81 characteristics to and AWD outback smacks of stupidity. Let the guy hear from some outback owners that may share his problem.. I think you are missing the point of his post.

That third hose is probably the one that goes to the vacuum canister. You may have a large vacuum leak, or your ignition timing could be off. Pull #1 spark plug. Put a cotton ball over the spark plug hole. crank the engine over by hand( 22mm socket on the cranck pulley) until the cotton ball poofs up from the spark plug hole. Then pull your distributor cap off. The rotor should be pointing toward the number one spark plug wire on the cap. If its not, move your distributor accordingly. Once it is pointed at #1 wire, you will be within a couple of degrees of being timed right. If it is, you have other problems to consider. Time it and report back

You will get more results in the New Gen section of the board. We deal with 70's and 80's stuff here. Good Luck and Welcome to the Board

Sure, You can swap from the old digidash to an analog dash, but be prepared for some pretty hefty rewiring.. Would definitely recimmend having the FSM diagrams for your car. the analaog dash would also have to be from an 85-86.

I would definitely be more worried about getting a new water pump and oil pump before I worried about valve springs.

I didn't say that they can't.. In my experience, OHC engines make the horsepower easier.

Come on up and I will show you how it all went together.. Its kind of a big job, but it isn't as hard as it sounds.

PM me your address.. I have 3-4 of them here. Where in Texas are you?

While dropping the nut would cause an exhaust leak, It shouldn't have caused any valve problems.. the smell may have been hot exhaust coming striaght out and cooking the road grime that collects under/on engines.

Mine has never given me any problems with timing belts.. closest thing I have had to a timing problem is when the ignition module in the dizzy died.. that was about a pain in the rump roast to diagnose.. I mean, sure, you hear 100 people every year complain about timing belts.. what you don't hear is the other 1,000,000 people that don't have any problems. Timing belts were a natural progression of things.. do you think the STi would be pushing 300+ hp on an OHV EA81 derivative? Whwn Saab went from OHV to OHC, people complained too.. but they didn't complain about the 20-30 increase on HP.. And no car maker that I know of has ever reverted to OHV after introducing an OHC motor.. there has got to be a reason.. i suppose it all just depends on what you want from the motor..

you will also need the TO bearing , manual tranny mounts and driveshaft from a manual XT(not sure if the regular L-series shaft will fit) You will either need to get 25 spline axles if you get the manual from a turbo, or keep the 23 spline axles the car came with and replace the rear diff if you get the manual from a nonturbo. I live in McKinney, about 20-25 miles north of dallas, and I just did this swap on my wagon about 6 months ago. Let me know if you need more help. Oh yeah.. being an automatic, unless it was specifically ordered with it, it won't have an LSD

More power. I happen to like my OHC motor

Things get going so fast that the valve spring can't supply enough pressure to close the valve before its time for it to open again.

Subaru brakes are plumbed diagonally..they need to be bled diagonally as well.. just bleeding the fronts won't do it.. do front left.. then right rear.. front right.. then left rear.. back and forth a couple of times.. see if that helps.

Thanks for the tip GD.. Been contemplating new motor and tranny mounts.. Now I know how I will do it

I have a pic of an EA82T that belongs to another local North TX soobhead that might make you think otherwise.. A 3 inch hole in the top of the block can be very convincing.. If I can't find a pic, I'll just have to go over there and take another.. I hear he's thinking of keeping the block as a reminder... And GD.. those aviations EA81s are a little bit different beasts than the EA81 in your car.. gets rebuilt a hell of a lot more often.. .. And besides.. the motors in question (pursuant to the original post) are EA82T's