calebz

88-89 is the only years I have seen the diff lock in the wagons.. may have been available in 87 GL:-10 and 90 Loyale turbos too.. don't know. 89 is the last year of the GL-10

Theres some spare parts laying around up here.. probably have what you need. How much you want for the car as-is?

pull the coil wire off. pull number one spark plug. put a cottonball or thumb or something over the spark plug hole. bump the motor with the key. when you feel/see a poof of air, set the dizzy in so that the rotor is pinting at the number one plug wire on the cap. pop the plug back in, reconnect the coil wire.. and away you go!

I moved the trip computer when I did mine. I mounted it in the little cubby hole below the ashtray(which happens to be the factory mountin place in the 88-89 GL-10) Here's a link to a pic to illustrate what I did. I used mounting hardware from an 88 GL-10, and had to reroute some of the wiring. Overall, not very difficult. http://usmb.net/albums/albuo11/Picture_004.sized.jpg

Adam... Its hybrid .. inbreds are people from Alabama

Looks nice. I feel your pin. My ECU fried a couple of months ago ni my 87 turbo.. Thankfully I was able to get one from a board member. Dealer wanted $650 or so for it. And thanks for the follow-up. It benefits everyone when someone posts the resolution to their troubles.

That sucks! I have never been to a wrecking yard that wouldn't sell a whole car... what a bunch of dorks!

I was just trying to make the point that it won't just plop in and bolt up. The exhaust system may be in the same place(for a turbo car), but doesn't just bolt up to the old exhaust, the air intake is on the same side, but doesn't just bolt up to the old airbox. Hadn't thought of the fuel lines. they are pretty much the same Sorry to confuse you Corky

Just from what I have seen of your car, just get whatevers cheap and fits. Not being negative about it, But I don't see sinking a bunch of money into that thing. Have you examined the clutch to determine that you need a while clutch kit? might just need a disc.. of course while you have it apart you should replace the TO bearing. I got my clutch from Schucks/Kragen/Checker for about $160. It came with Disc, Pressure Plate, TO Bearing and alignment tool.

There are a couple of things that contribute to proper cold Idle. The Aux Air valve is up front, mounted on top of the t-stat housing. Make sure it hasn't gotten disconnected, or the wiring to it isn't broken(that has happened to me a couple of times. But more likely is that the fast idle solenoid needs to be adjusted, possibly repaired/replaced. Its located on the back of the throttle body and has a little adjustment screw on the bottom.. Does your idle drop when the AC is turned on?.. the fast idle solenoid also compensates for that.. so that would be one way to check.

Nope , it sure doesn not. the motor mounts are different, the bell housing is different. .. every contact point for that enghine is different. you need to find an EJ tranny, rear end, and some of the suspension.

My wife and I have had this discussion/argument many times over the past 8-9 years. Basically what it always ends up being is, she gets a car that doesn't need to be worked on(at least very often.. its hard to tell with any used car), and I get my Soob(or saab, or whatever my particular car hobby is at the time).. that way she isn't driving something that needs work, amd I get my car of choice. It actually works out better for both of us that way. For example, her current car is a 94 camry. paid about $5000 for it and it has the bulletproof lexus V6, leather and all the goodies. All I have to do is change the oil and deal with normal 10 year old Toyota stuff. My car is my 87 Turbowagon that was put together from spare parts. Its fully loaded for an 87 soob, has pug rims and its something to tinker with. When I do have to spend money on it, I just remond her that she has a $5000 car and I only have about $700 into mine.. And mine has way more new stuff on it than hers does..given the small amount of money I have into the car, its also easier to get myself out of trouble should I drag another one home.. "But honey, Look how inexpensive it was.. If I put it in Auto trader, I could get 3 times what I paid for it!" This advice goes for nearly any aspect of your marriage: If you make sure she has what she wants first, getting what you want will be a hell of a lot easier. Good luck! EDIT: For the record, my wife hates my subarus, but I get away with it not only because she has her nice car, but because they are so damned useful!

Only time an auto is better is in rush hour traffic. Have done rush hour in seattle/tacoma(for years), dallas, cleavland and a couple other places.. Auto beats a manual hands down if you have to commute in a major metropolis. Otherwise, see the advantages of a manual in 99OBW's post

I think a carb motor is 8 deg BTDC. someone will have to confirm that for you though sounds like the dizzy is a tooth off..

You never know where I might turn up.. 99% of my family is in WA and OR.

Yeah. Thanks for the stuff. I had no problems with any of it Someone find some EA71 stuff.. Please!!

Mike...Mike.. Mike.. You let yourself get screwed.. when they made the offer, all you had to do was say no. ANd then show them proof.. all of the info to do thatwas handed to you on a silver platter.. KBB.com, edmunds.com, Nada.com. Add in some ads, and you would have been set. http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=148276907&dealer_id=84403&car_year=1987&make=SUB&distance=100&max_price=&model=&advcd_on=n&end_year=1989&min_price=&certified=n&address=97228&search_type=used&advanced=n&start_year=1985&color=&cardist=7 http://www.autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=146499337&dealer_id=5619858&car_year=1987&make=SUB&distance=100&max_price=&model=&advcd_on=n&end_year=1989&min_price=&certified=n&address=97228&search_type=used&advanced=n&start_year=1985&color=&cardist=100 They can talk sh!t about the mileage all they want, but the fact is that none of the price guides really take mileage into account on a car that old. You could have easily gotten $1200 if you had worked for it. I have done this quite a few times now. you have to stand your ground.. not bend over for them.:moon: I got $2400 for my 88.. Yes it was a GL-10, but that doesn't make that much of a price difference.. couple hundred dollars.. but hey.. $31 to fix, and you get almost $700.. keep the car until it dies and the branded title won't ever matter. you win either way

Oh yeah. I remeber that article..That thing isn't nearly as pretty as the Ultimate RX

I take it you don't have a title?

The pump puts out around 65-70psi I believe.. at the fuel rails its supposed to be ~35psi

Biff, I was responding to pearls waterpump removal stuff.. thats what you have to take the timong belt covers and crank pulley off for Suby- there are a few different AC units in 80s soobs .. outboard means the AC unit is next to the battery, inboard means its between th PS pump and the alt.. the reason I bring this up, is because depending on which one you have, they use different brackets and such.. one is factory installed, one is dealer installed.. cant remember which is which though.

It was a joke Corky, Interlaced with some mild sarcasm. I have seen the the Ultimate RX. And someday when its current whereabouts are figured out, I plan to hit up the owner for a ride in it.. maybe even a drive

If any of the stud is sticking out, spray the hell out of it with PB Blaster(or whatever P-oil you use).. let it sit fir a while, then grab the part of the stud thats sticking out with a pair of vise grips. I have done that on a manifold bolt and it worked great

It has been deleted from the BYB forum.. Guess it was too big.. Would like to see it though.. Never seen an RX with an EJ20G in it.. could be interesting:D

top end like that, it would have to be 3.70..