calebz

WRX ICs are cheap and a good fit. The second gen RX7 TMIC fits rather well too.

DOn't know how many were produced, but they only made them in 83 and 84.. IIRC, they were all automatic 4wd.

And how is this old gen related? Moved

Peruse through the 'retrofitting' forum (where this thread is going;) ) People I can think of who have done it Me (Calebz) Garner Subaru Tex RallyRuss There are probably one or two others that I am forgetting, but search under those usernames and you will find a ton of good stuff. There are also one or two people in process of doing it right now (caboobaroo is one), so they might have some different ideas on what to do. Everyone that has done it did it a little differently.

The physical mounting of the SPFI manifold and carb manifold are the same, Same bolts, same ports. Many people do the carb to SPFI swap because its a fairly bolt on operation.

Or hot

mmm.. maybe.. Mine actually drives;) Legal disclaimer: 90% of my TD04 info came from Tex and his pics and posts. Any crap I sling his direction is all in fun and in no way reflects my position nor the official position of the USMB.

Yes, the big accells are pretty well proven. Not all the crap ones made it east. I had one die on my after 10-11 months.. 70 miles from home. Remember there is a huge difference between the accell Super coil and the Accell Super Stock coil.

Here's how we did mine.. Its a TD04 UP flange welded right on top of the old flange on a stock header/UP combo Here is the customone Russ made with the stock flange Here you can see the one bolt that is different between the TD04 flange and the VF7 flange Does that explain it? PS I am pretty sure I got the idea for doing mine that way from Tex.. He did it first

Congratulations on the new car. It does indeed belong in the old gen section (its in the description on the forum list page;) ) Look up at the top of the page for the link to the USRM. Therein is Skips article on trouble codes, how to check them and what they mean. Post back after you find the answers if you have any questions on diagnosis, or do a search on the board for related threads. Welcome to the board!

The blocks are pretty much the same. Each has different pistons. You can use any of the blocks with any of the different fuel system/head setups. But some just won't really yeild the desired result.

I had an 88 turbowagon that was a CA model, no EGR

No, it was a guess. I actually spool up and hit full boost quite a bit before that. but I have other mitigating factors involved;)

There are a number of people running with no belt covers. the general concensus is that as long as you don't do any major offroading, you'll be ok. I am running with no covers right now and so far so good.

Don't the metra kits come with a brat/wagon plate? Mine came with an extra plate for what I thought were gen II cars. I gave it to Erik in tacoma for his wagon. I thought it worked for a brat as well.

Which temperature sensor did you switch?

It will hit full boost at 4-4.5k. It spools at approximately 2.0-2.5k. Fuel is only a problem if you are running higher than stock boost. And fuel cut will hit generally at lower than normal boost levels on hotwire cars becaue of the greater amount of air flowing through the system... That is, if you ave a problem with fuel cut. I have rarely had fuel cut occur in my car, maybe I'm just lucky that way. RE: XT manifold. Depending on your car, it may require some wiring work to be done to deal with te different TPS. but the bottom line is that an MPFI in an XT ir not really different than any other EA82 MPfi. Your easiest be would be to get a spider from a turbo XT, but an NA spider will work as well with some modification. also remember to get the pitching stopper for the XT and possibly the throttle cable, as the whole TB setup is different. Another thing to consider is that you will no longer be able to see your flywheel timing marks with the spider intake, so you may want to use the XT type pulley system with it. Oh, and search. There is a ton of info and even pics of what needs to be done to deal with th TD04 and spider, both individually and used together.

Yes, your car uses the smaller of the holes, with the larger one plugged

Seriously.. Not wanting to dig through tons of crap is somewhat understandable. But there are at three threads about this on the first page. Why would you expect someone to take the time to spoon feed you the answers if you won't even take the time read the answers that are right in front of you.?

Make sure they 'tow' it on a flat bed AWD center diffs do not take well to being toweds with 2 down.. you may end up needing a new transmission if its towed like that.. It can only be towed on a dolly if you pull the rear half of the rear driveline.

T-belts and cooling aren't really 'trouble spots'. The T-belts are supposed to be changed at ~55k.. It says so in every piece of documentation available for the car. If you don't maintain them , they break.. just like any other old car. The cooling system isn't exactly weak either IMO. I have finally upgraded to an aftermarket radiator in my 87 Twagon to combat the cooling trouble brought on by... you guessed it.. an 18 year old radiator. Its an old car.. it must be maintained.

I have a magellan 315..Its kinda old, fairly compact and reasonably cheap on ebay. Tire calculators are cool too, but given the differences between manufacturers and the inherent inaccuracy I have found in subaru speedos, I wouldn't really trust them much.

This is copied from the Help/Suggestions forum. It doesn't seem to be getting the views there that it should. Since this is the most active part of the board, perhaps more people will see it here. I am making this a sticky post to remind everyone. Most of you all love to have a nicely done, catchy Signature at the bottom of each of your posts. Signatures express your personality, interests, and even can list your current cars and projects. We want to keep signatures in check here at the USMB for a few reasons. One, signatures that are too large make reading through the threads here difficult and unpleasant. A signature that is bigger than most of your posts are is probably inappropriate. Two, signatures use a LOT of bandwidth. By keeping your sig within the guidleines here, you will help us save money as well as keeping the forums looking good. The USMB is user-supported, and we would like to keep it that way. Right now we are able to maintain a no-advertisement policy. The Rules: It must be Subaru related. If it is not it will be removed. Keep it under 10 Normal sized lines. If your signature is overly long, it makes scrolling through your posts a real pain in the butt, plus, 10 lines usually has lots of spaces which eat up the bandwidth. Keep it clean. Do not place inappropriate language or links in your signature. Negative Remarks about another member are also not allowed. Keep it to one image, no greater than 400x100 pixels. If you want a pic of your car, etc in your sig, but cannot figure out how to resize the image, post in Forum Help and Suggestions. There are plenty of people here that will help you out. If you use an image in your signature, pease keep it to less than 5 lines above OR below the image, NOT both. More than that and your sig starts to get too big. Don't use excess, or large animated smilies! These are fun to use, but the suck a lot of bandwidth, plus the animated ones make it hard to scroll in some older browsers if there are too many. Use the smaller emoticons that are "normal" height, try not to get carried away. Do not use 'too large' text. Please do not use large text, bigger than size=3. If you use this size=3, only use it on only one line, and make it count as two normal lines of text when you count up how many lines you have in your sig. Suggestions: Make use of the "Courier" font to make tables in your sig. With this, each letter is the same exact width, unlike many other fonts. If you use notepad on your computer, you can pre-make a good sig using columns of text, and then copy/paste it into your signature block. All your columns will come out nice and even with this font. Make use of font size=1. This makes your sig look professional, with the smaller text, and makes it more "separate" from your actail posts. If you use size=1, feel free to use more lines of text, up to 13 in your signature. Make large lists on the same line. You can make a list like this: 1985 GL-10 Turbo -- 1980 GL Wagon 4x4 -- Moped Be creative with your lists, you can separate them with other characters, make "art" with symbols and letters, etc. If you need help with your signature, please post in Forum Comments and Suggestions. Thanks for your cooperation;)

I just ordered and recieved my 2 core for my 87 turbowagon from radiator.com. Was 139.46 after tax. I will go get the manufacturers name and part number for you a little later today. Its already installed, good fit.

SPFI - 86-94 L-series. Not all, but most (except 86 and 87, which still had a number of carbed cars) MPFI 85 L-series wagon (rare) and some various years of XTs (N/A), all EA82 turbo cars. All legacy and newer subarus. Also, all of the turbo cars are MPFI. No dual range MPFI cars that I am aware of, except the RX, which has a little differend DR than the others and is turbo.