calebz

As far as I know, The ECU doesn't care what transmission the car has. Only jumpering that needs to be done is on the plug that goes to the automatic shifter. And thats to diasble the neutral safety switch. I never got around to hooking up the reverse lights or the diff lock light on the dash when I did my FT4wd swap. The difflock switch is a lot easier than it looks. IIRC, it has 5 wires. Only 3 are needed to make it work. I don't have the color codes handy, but its one (switched) power in and 2 power out. ech of the power outs go to one of the vacuum solenoids that mounts behind the driver side strut tower. the other 2 wires on the solenoids are simply gorunds. There are 2 vac lines out from the solenoids. they go to the vac diaphram on the side of the trans. Its ok if you hook the wrong power to the wrong solenoid, or the wrong vac line to from the solenoid to the trans.. that will simply reverse the on/off process of the difflock (you will know it the first time you try to turn).. if its backwards, just swap the vac lines from the solenoids to the trans. The solenoids are fed vacuum from the white canister on the passenger side between the strut tower and the fire wall. Its really a lot easier than it looks. If I get some time tomorrow evening, I will dig out the FSM and list some wire color codes for you.

45 - 60 minutes Hand tools, one person and a cherry picker

The 'boost controller' on a saab is a mass of wires and components.. its not exactly a small simple thing Where its located depends on what year the 9000 is.

Thats the one a few of us are using. It seems to be the best fit without widening the center hump.

Bring your own tools No jacks they may want to look through your toolbox No kids $1-2 for admission Thats about it I think

Yup

http://usmb.net/albums/album253/2003_0521.jpg *runs and hides:-p

I would start by making sure everything is grounded properly and using sending units compatible with the gauges.

Subarubrat was(may still be) running a DR 4 speed in his ER27 brat.. 240-250hp. Nuked one tranny so far that I know of.

Heretic.. quit spreading your lies! That is somewhat important. I helps smooth out the exhaust pulses that turn the turbo. 2" is just plain too big for the uppipe section. Cobb tuning was recently in town showing off their new aftermarke STi stuff... Even that uppipe is under 2 inches. IIRC, the ID of the new Cobb uppipe was only 43mm. Considering our smaller displacement and lower compression, I would think that 1.5 inch would be better for exhaust gas velocity and spool up.

Welcome! Glad we could help out No worries on the language barrier. Its an easy bet that your english is better than quite a number of the American members here:lol:

can probably expect the header to eventually rub a hole through the PS line (don't ask how I know this)

Really? mine sure do.

Looks like an 8 footer on about a 4 ft rise

I know that the legacy front parts will work, but you still need the XT6 control arm. You would also need the axles that match the spindles/hubs I would assume that the same would hold true for OB stuff.. caution.. you would lose your ebrake in the process.

^^right.. if you don't believe me, listen to Russ.. he knows his stuff.

First, did you purposely capitalize every word, or did the caps lock filter catch you? Second, the difference is weight. The XT6 (not XT) flywheel is lighter third - price. Depends on where you get it. Fourth - search. there is a very good search function here that will answer many questions about the XT6 flywheel in great detail.

If its covered in oil, you have more problems than just your MAF. Especailly considering the MAF in no way comes in contact with any part of the oiling system of the car. I have 4 in the garage right now and there is no appreciable crap build up on them. I have yet to see a hotwire MAF of any kind that has benefitted from being cleaned.

The hotwire MAF is a self cleaning unit. every time the car shuts down, it momentarily superheats to burn the crap off the filament.. thats why its called a hotwire. I don't know the exact temp of a soob, but the average is approximately 1500 degrees for a split second. An old vane type (85-86) can stand a good cleaning, but 87+ have no moving parts, nothing to get stuck and the part that does all the work is self cleaning.

The VF7 really starts to lose its efficiency above 12-13psi.. by 15, its a hairdryer.. The TD04 not only has a larger compressor, it has larger inlet and outlets, thus providing better flow.. equivalent amount of air at lower boost

Possibly a leaky carb gasket. The 'spray it down with carb cleaner until you find the leak' is a good one. Do that and report back.

when I installed my FT4wd w/difflock, I had to do all my own wiring. Its really easy.. One power in to the switch.. two out. One to each solenoid. On the solenoid side, theres a power in to each one.. the other wire is a ground.

I got my 88 factory service manual for $40 shipped from a member of the board here. Half.com eBay.com Amazon.com Those are your best bets... Although if you have a used book store in your area, you may have some luck there as well.. I have found a few late 70s/early 80s FSMs at a big used book store baout 40 miles away.

That is much more reasonable Thats pretty close to what the PAPs around here charge. although I think its only 79.99 for a motor:D

Is this a recent problem? Has it been like this since you bought the car? Has your car been towed?(see towing thread for consequences) IIRC, those trannies are something like a 90-10 split anyway, so unless you are in a low traction situation, you may not notice any power from the rear wheels.