TomRhere

1-3-2-4 is correct order.

Welcome to the Board..

Welcome to the Board! And yes, owning a BRAT or 2 is great. I get lot's of compliments, and questions about mine. Get alot of, my_____ used to have one of those..... Owned an '86 when I joined the Board, and bought an '82 later that year. Still have the '82, dismantled, out in the garage.. I've since owned an '84, another '86, and currently DD my '85. Both of the '86's died of cancer, but they were in bad shape when I bought them. Traded the '84 for an '88 XT6. The current owner of that BRAT has completely restored it.

That's an EA81 intake. Rinse the water jacket out with a hose. Clean the T-stat seat area with a light touch of ScotchBrite. Or, just swap Weber adapter over to your intake. An EA82 intake takes a different style adapter, should you decide to ever go with one.

Still plugging away at it. Got the front swaybar in, Y-pipe installed, all fluids topped off, brake lines in, brakes bled. Deciding on what muffler/where before I finalize the exhaust. Still waiting on a couple parts to get rear diff installed and axles finished. Except for needing a few ancillary parts, engine bay is all done. FTAWD XT6 Pistolgrip shifter installed, FWD console pieces installed, Got sound installed along with new speakers. Gotta have tunes...... Found me a better electric fan, it's in but I need to swap plugs for it. It be Subaru, so it's good... Actually bolted up to stock mounts too. Seller couldn't say it was for an EA82, but it fitted. Best of the best.... She runs again!!!!! Hooked up the test connectors, and just let the fuelpump do it's thing. She finally filled the lines with go-juice. So I twisted the key somemore.... SHE RUNS!!!!! Had to play with throttle to keep it running, but 3 minutes in, she run good. Lifters were way noisy for 10-15 minutes, but she's a running good now... Not to shabby for an engine that hasn't run for nearly 7 years.

Walk away from it for a day or two. It honestly helps to do so..... (would say go grab a beer or two, but you're not old enough) Do like the look of the tire/wheel well alignment. Don't look like the tires are "hanging out". I hates that look........

Main power feed to the fusable links could've came unplugged at the link box.

Murphy's Oil Soap does an excellent job on the interior. Cuts thru alot of stuff, leaves a nice Pine scent that's not to overpowering.

Sounds to me like the choke isn't working right. Check for smooth movement of the choke butterfly and linkage. Check to see if you're getting 12 volts to the choke heater with key on. Check for continuity of the choke heater. (Connection on choke housing to ground). The spring inside the choke housing can break also. That may allow the choke to close, but not open. Just some thoughts.....

Ditto that with the "Traction Control". There are times when one needs to "Put the power to the wheels" to control a situation. Traction Control eliminates that option.

EGR light comes on every 60,000 miles as a Service Reminder. There's a couple of single wire connectors near the fuse box that you swap around to reset the light. Found pic in this thread, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=124963 The ones labled #3, #4, & #5 in the 2nd pic are the ones you want.

Congrat's!!! Owned a couple '86 BRAT's myself, (both rust buckets when I bought them). Stick with the '84 model year when buying parts for it. Less chance of getting EA82 parts by mistake. It happens...

If your '90 is anything like my '88, No need to remove dash cluster. Pull the knob off the switch, remove the 2 screws there. Drop the trim panel under the steering column and you can reach up and grab the switch. Could be a bit tricky to unplug/replug the connector though, especially if you have big hands like me.

The Dremel will work to get the nut off. Once you get the hub off, some rust penetrant and a drift punch should do the trick. If that fails, "carefully" drill the pin out. Take your time, you don't want to snap a drill bit off in there.

Year/Model would greatly help here. Differences between Year/Models.

Pull the rear side panel on the passenger side of the bed and check the connector inside there. I have had a few issues with corroded terminals there on a few of my BRATs.

Outside of tinting them darker, I don't know of a fix. There are days that I wished I didn't have them, even though I totally Love having them.

Ok. Just going by what the Hayne's Manual is telling me; Fuse 5 15 amp is for the Hazards, White wire, Always Hot. Fuse 10 15 amp is for the turnsignals. Green/White wire, Hot with Key "ON"/Start only. Power from both is fed into the turnsignal/hazard switch, out of that there's the following wiring. Green/Blue wire for everything on the Left side, Green/Red wire for everything on the Right side. Black for Ground. No mention of an actual Flasher unit. (thinking there has to be one though)

For the flasher's working one side only, I'd check the bulbs on the non-working side 1st. Fuse is good as system operates some what. For the turnsignals not working, Do either of the dash indicator's light when you try each sides turnsignal? No dash indicator(s) = bad fuse, missing/bad turnsignal flasher, defective switch/wiring.

Yep. To add to what SD said, Subaru's with Auto trans has a 4-port master cylinder. Manual trans with the "HH" have a 3-port. Easy to swap them out, just carefully rebend the lines to fit the new Master cylinder.

0850116 rockauto's part number, for '84 BRAT http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1267725,parttype,685 If that's the type adjuster you're looking for, it should fit either the EA81's or EA82's. I know the '88 GL10 FWD Wagon I had used that type on the rear. They were froze, and I used ones from a parts BRAT to swap them out.

rockauto.com lists them. FWD vehicles have them also. 4WD, (or most EA82 4WD) have the auto adjusters, and that set-up can be swapped, just like the rear disc set-up.

Have you tried swapping out the plug wire for that cylinder?

All you need fitting wise is another "TEE" fitting. On EA81 vehicles, there is a "TEE" fitting bolted to the "HH" bracket for the other side of the brake system. Find another one, remove the lines from the "HH", unbolt it from the frame rail, install lines into the "TEE", bleed the brakes. There was another Member on here that did this earlier this year. Pics and part number of the "TEE" was posted in that thread. I don't recall who, or when it was exactlly. I've done this myself, but I just happen to have a few "HH" laying around from scrapped vehicles, and didn't need to go buy one.

There is a wiring connector behind that rearmost panel, check to see if there is any corrosion there. It is the last connection before you get to where the wiring harness splits to go across the back of the BRAT to feed the Driver's side lights. Bad ground for the rear lighting can cause all sorts of wierd lighting issues.