Legacy777

I don't think you can replace just the mirror. Just look for someone parting out a first gen legacy, and have them send ya the whole mirror part. Blackbart (Frank) has a lot of parts and may be able to help you.

Fluid change may cure the syncro issue. I had a turbo legacy tranny rebuilt before I swapped it in, and I still had syncro grinding issues. I've played around with fluids and the fluid definitely makes a huge difference. Redline lightweight shock proof would be the stuff to run on a problem gear boxes. Right now I'm running a cocktail of 1qt redline LWSP, 1qt of pennzoil syncromesh, and the rest swepco 201 (80w90). I just changed it last weekend, and so far, things seem pretty good, and no grinding.

I don't know what the final drive ratio on the 98 is, however the 93 AT's had a 3.90 final drive ratio for the AWD's. So if the final drive ratio is different you'll need a matching rear diff to swap over as well. The drive shaft length is the same. I don't know when the transmission style/phase changed, but when it did the electrical connector changed. There were some additional pins/control items on the newer transmissions. Also, I believe the newer one had a speed sensor in the transmission, rather then a cable driven dash speed sensor, which was found on the older ones. The newer transmissions could probably be made to work, but I would not say they are plug and play.

Sounds like you have a pretty decent setup as is. The AWIC setup is pretty good. Unless you want to put a front mount intercooler in, I'd stick with the AWIC setup. You could add just water and redline water wetter instead of an antifreeze/water mix. That will help improve the heat transfer capabilities. I'd suggest checking out www.rslibertyclub.org/forums & www.bbs.legacycentral.org Tons of info there on mods and other goodies.

Congrats. Yeah the belt can be a little tricky to get on some times. The camshaft seals can be a pain too. Once you've got the technique down, it's pretty easy though.

Yeah those cylinders look pretty good for 180k.

This is the ECU This is the TCU

With the key in the ON position, I would test that you have 12v on one side of the connector for the FWD fuse. If you do have 12v there, I'd suspect something wrong with the duty c solenoid. If you don't have 12v there, you may want to check some fuses. Regardless, if he drove it until there was clunking, he may have done irrepairable damage to the AWD system.

So your problems/hesitation started after you added the intake OR the BOV? Have you tried going back to stock and see if that fixes your problems?

You'll have to get the pullies at a dealer. www.subarugenuineparts.com has beat out 1stsubaru & subaruparts for prices

These pics may help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/reardiff/ I seem to recall that one or two of the bolts go through into the housing of the diff, and may need some silicone sealant on them, howver I may be completely off base.

Does the car run ok when warm? I'd agree it sort of sounds like a coolant temp sensor.

It was like the early-mid 90's when things changed

You need to jack up the front end, put your hands on the struts and other suspension components and try and move them, see if anything is loose

ej22t motors came in the 91-94 turbo legacies. Stock hp was 165 with around 180 ft-lbs of torque.

Yes it's possible that you can have an oil seal leakage. I'm not sure the type of oil seal that's in there though.

Ditto on the old style replacement. But yeah, if it's cracked, you should replace it.

Yeah, I'd suggest pulling the codes. You could be searching a completely different system then where the actual problem is.

The PDM kits for the n/a's have been out there and working pretty well for people.

You can use the instructions on my site for the codes. You can use this as a scan tool for OBD1 on the first gen legacies http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/bcbfscan/

The carbon would only be on the turbine side. Just run some sea foam through. I wouldn't really worry about it though. Turbine temps get pretty high and cook stuff off.

You can remove the fan and clean the junk out of there. You need to remove the glove box and it should be like 3 screws holding the fan in the blower housing.

Do you have the model number? It should be TZ or TY something.

Be wary....if they set up camp....they could've chewed through other stuff, and wires....which could cause you lots of problems....not to mention....there's probably dead mice in there....

I'd recommend checking out www.rslibertyclub.org/forums and www.bbs.legacycentral.org