Legacy777

Yeah you should be able to convert over to AWD relatively easily. You will need a new tranny, but all the wiring "should" be there.

probably is the coolant temp sensor.

It'll probably be around 300 or just a little less.

Your car doesn't have an overdrive per-say. it is a four speed transmission. Fourth gear is overdrive. What you're feeling is probably the torque converter locking or un locking. Have you checked your trans fluid level?

Yeah...check your fluid.....does it smell burnt? What color is it? More then likely your tranny is in need of some service if the fluid looks ok and is at the correct level.

sensor is exactly the same. It might have just been seized in the hole. Or if they were banging the old one out, they might not have gotten the outer shell removed.

yeah fsm states 65 ft/lbs. You need at least 110 ft/lbs.

Sensor is the same. If he drilled too far, he could have damaged the crank gear. It can be replaced, but you have to take the timing belt covers & belt off. Here's some pics to show what I'm talking about http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

yes the trans is electronically controlled. I'd make sure that all the connections are secure for the electrical connectors. Is the check engine or power light on or blinking? You may want to reset the ECU & TCU. maybe something got changed when they had the motor out. Instructions for resetting can be found on my site under the notes & tips section, engine related.

Is it an auto or mt?

I did an AWD & 5spd conversion on my legacy. To convert it to AWD, I had to swap over the hubs, struts, rear crossmember, add rear differential, add rear drive line, swap out the transmission to an AWD 5spd transmission, as well as swap transmission crossmembers. I've got a pretty detailed write-up with pictures, if you want to know more. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

when's the last time you changed the tranny fluid? If you don't remember I'd suggest changing it. Worn tranny fluid can cause the binding as well.

Not sure I follow what you'd like more info on. Can you try to explain a little bit more? Thanks

You can see some pics of the covers and other such stuff here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

The FWD cars are identical in terms of engine, reliability, etc. The only difference is the transmission, rear drivetrain, and suspension. My car was FWD for most of it's life....and I had about 178k miles on it before I swapped, so I'd say it's pretty reliable.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=31500&highlight=feedback+system

Are you sure you're looking at the timing belt, and not the normal belts? The timing belt is hidden behind plastic covers. The pulley coming off isn't an uncommon thing...unfortunately. It's due to mechanics/people not torquing the pulley bolt correctly. It needs to be torqued to 110 ft/lbs at the least. I also apply locktite when I do mine. As for your problem. As long as the pulley did not damage the keyway of the crankshaft, you should be able to put a new key in, put the crank gear and timing belt back together, put a new pulley on, and be good to go.

If you don't mind it doesn't have AWD, and it's in good shape, I'd say go for it if you need a new car.

The FWD rear hubs are different then the AWD ones, so no they won't work. Sorry.

I'm going to close this thread, so all your replies are kept in the thread you started in the new gen forum.

it'll work fine.

It won't do anything for you.

Yes it does have an engine temperature sensor, that the ECU reads.

mind telling us what year and model car it is.....might help

The jist of it is you can wear out the duty c solenoid prematurely, and you won't really gain any fuel savings due to the fact you're still spinning the rear drivetrain.