SakoTGrimes

People who think land is "ownable" piss me off. It's there for everyone

The day I hooked my running lights to a toggle switch, the brake lights quit working entirely. Sure I cut the wires for both filamants to find out which one was which, but I reconnected the brake wires. SO... I am flipping the running light switch when I brake so people know I'm braking but of course that's no good long term... The brake bulbs work, I know that, just not getting a signal from the pedal.... I am out of ideas..... anybody?

I present to you: The Brat Crew Cab! Still haven't painted that body though...

Driving around in Phoenix OR that read SUBARU 4WD on the side? It looked and sounded real nice, a guy in his 20s was driving it. (I don't see many gen-1s)

Wow, that's weird, Australia usually gets better stuff than the US, but I guess the grass is always greener, right? I bet there's a bunch of people here who would trade their 3.90s straight across.. but with shipping costs it probably wouldn't be worth it

Well, IF you have the original owners manuals for all 3, they should have the # in them that matches one stamped into the engine (different than VIN) Mine does.

Earlier today I got both brake lights to work, then they quit. I thought maybe the grounds were bad (wires were blackened) so I grounded them straight to the body, nothing. I can touch the light end of the wires to the wires I rigged up for the running lights and they'll work, but still no go when plugged into the stock brake light wiring. So either my brake pedal just isn't sending a signal anymore or my brake light wiring went bad right after I got the running lights to work this sucks

I was having the same problem with my Loyale when I first got it. I installed a better 2 core radiator and it never went past halfway after that.

So I got it all done today, used all new wire and the running lights work, but now the brake lights don't work! WTF mate?

WARNING: DUMB QUESTION AHEAD: What's a relay and what would that involve?

83 GL - Whenever I turn the lights on, the fuse blows. Headlights and brake lights work but running lights don't, so I'm guessing one of the 4 power wires is grounding out somewhere. The tail light assemblies are dry. Rather than fighting with tracing 4 wires, tearing out all kinds of interior parts and lots of other fun stuff I want to: run 12 volt wire from the battery, to a 15 amp fuse, to a toggle switch (that glows!) and then to the 4 lights. The wiring in my car is already jacked up as hell, so is there any reason I shouldn't do this? I did the same thing to my radiator fan yesterday and it's working fine so far.

EA81: pushrod 1.8 liter - your car has one EA82: overhead cam 1.8 liter - most 1985-1989 cars have them XT6: an XT with 6 cylinders (ER27, similar to EA82) EJ22 and EJ25: the 2.2 and 2.5 liter engines found in most Legacys, Imprezas and Forresters The EJ22 will probably give you more power and reliability than an EA82T (turbo). The EA82 will bolt to your transmission, not sure about the EJ22

And speaking of keeping things stock - that is a very good idea. My car has approximately one hundred thousand trillion to the umteenth power miles of jury-rigged, cut and just plain stupidly modified wires in it = electrical problems. It's semi-lifted with 15" Toyota wheels and studded snow tires and some kind of torquier cam and I get stuck while Wheat Beer Man does the same stuff in his bone stock 83 GL-10 and does just fine. The only mod my next Sub is getting is paint!

Excuse me, but wouldn't a radiator from a full size GMC pickup basically do the same thing as a Subaru radiator? If it physically fits, and flows water, should it not work? I know that Hyundai rad.'s fit into Toyota Tercels so why not just pick something (anything) from the junkyard?

For 14 or 15 inch wheels the only options are getting the wheels off a Peugeot 504 or 505, hard to find especially the nice looking ones. Toyota and GM truck 6 lug wheels can also have 2 extra holes drilled in them to fit the wacky 4x140 pattern. Lots of people here have made custom brushgaurds, light bars, roof racks themselves or by a friend who welds. Shadyirishmen and Mudrat79 are members who do it as a business, OZified makes lifts too and some others I can't recall. But the mod you'll get the most bang for your buck is probably the dual range transmission. A stock Subaru can do some amazing things.

Sweet Justy! I believe there is a hollow tube in the middle of the shift knob that you have to push out (really hard to do) to let go of the red button.

My car is Duplicolor, although the non-hood parts were done by a pro. I'm thinking about painting one of my future Loyales the same: Cayman metallic clear coat. I really liked the black pearl on my (r.i.p.) Loyale though

Well, that is a zero-traction, 4 wheels in the air high center, so yeah

What's the budget for this project? Project almost free: remove all body panels possible, lose all glass, cut off entire roof Project cheap: above, but weld in roll bar and lift with big tires

Hey! 3 more hours with that little shovel and I would've made it out! I'm temped to do it again just to prove my shovel skills

I say oil's oil, if it lubricates it should work. Of course Royal Purple is good high performance oil, but you probably wouldn't notice the difference with 90hp

Get: a Gen1 wagon, a full time 4WD turbo automatic EA81 GL-10, an EA82 d/r wagon, a Loyale, 3 Justy wagons and spend the rest making them even spiffier

Is it possible to rig a d/r 5 speed so that you can operate it with the little red button, so you have 2hi and 4 lo but no 4hi?

Notice how it matches the rest of the car? I like that part (used to be black primer, latex house paint and rust)

It's about time I got these up, eh?