Turbone

Check the PCV hose on that side to see if its plugged up. Run a wire or coat hanger thru it and see if a bunch of carbon, etc comes out. And the next time I see you, I'm going to kick you in the shin for putting Fram parts on your car

The only thing you need to worry about are the electrical harness plugs from the intake to the Main harness. I had problems because my RX is a later year (89) and the plugs didnt match the 87.5 Spyder intake harness. I just swapped my RX intake harness onto the intake. You should be able to use the stock ECU also. I also see the crate engine is a AT, is your old engine AT? No big deal, you will just have to swap flywheels. Your biggest problem is finding the intake hoses and stuff. I dont think I have anything left, it all got cut up when I installed my TMIC. Which would be a good idea while your doing the swap.

Thats correct. The dealerships did the recall and made the swaps. The 83's got the recall. Most of the 84's came from the factory with oil/watercooled turbo's. Look in your wanted thread, I posted a link for a CL ad. N/m on the CL ad, I just read your post.

Looks very nice. I suggest you invest in a alarm system pronto

Frozen rotors are cryo treated, thats why they are pricey.

I've bought 2 complete sets of D/S rotors from R1 Concepts. They are about the cheapest I've found yet. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Loyale-XT-Coupe-85-94-Front-D-S-BRAKE-ROTORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem3353c0ea3dQQitemZ220448483901QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

It just shows I know how to do it right

I'll see what I can do. I'm taking a road trip this Sunday and should be able to get some shots with scenery.

They dont make pads for EA82's or ER27's. Glad I did my 5 lug swap so I can get ceramics on the front now. And btw, Hawk pads are very expensive.

It wasnt directed towards you. I went thru 4 used engines before I finally got a clue and bought a CCR engine. I'm actually thinking of building a EA82T with stronger internals, but need to save money up for that one.

Oil change helped that a bunch

Let me just say....If you start with crap, you end up with crap. Plain and simple. Start with a fresh engine, dont go nuts with it and you will have a reliable rig. I have 137AWHP and 171TQ on stock internals. All you haters can keep on hatin.

You wont find anything aftermarket for a Subaru, it will need to be modified. Just like a 5 lug swap. To get a XT6 rear air strut to fit a EA81, you will need to do alot of fabricating to make it work. A air shock for a Jeep should almost bolt right in. I have Rancho shocks on the rear of my EA81 Hatch. It has a fabbed bracket to accept the top mount, but its mainly to help keep the shock away from the wheel well. The OP needs to clarify what he wants to do.

I doubt it. If you want something like that, you would need air bags. Then your looking at big $$$.

You obviously dont know me very well

Great. Pretty soon I will be the only one left with a running EA82T and it will be even more rare

Sweet, another local And yes, I pass by your place on a regular basis....I live in Bonney Lk and make lots of trips to EC . If you would like to meet some of us, try and make it to this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=96228

Gen 1 Brats didnt come with T-Tops. Also, all of Gen 1 Subaru's had round headlights till 82 I believe.

What you are feeling is normal. What you need to be concerned about is whether there is a major temp difference between the top and bottom of the rad. Cold on top and hot on bottom will be a clogged rad.

The easiest solution is to get Gabriel airshocks. http://www.partcat.com/gabriel/ Part # 49310

I would take a look at the codes, it might help to pinpoint the problem. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

Because the fuel cut is like turning the engine off and then back on. I experience it every time I go over 12lbs of boost. This could be a real pita to track down, seeing how it had a completely different engine in it. How bad was the wiring harness chopped up? Are all the sensors still there? Was it returned to the original stock form is the big question.

The easiest would be Chinook Pass. Stay on hiway 410 till you get to Buckley, then take hiway 165 all the way to Evans Crk ORV. I'll see if I can get a Google map up for you. View Larger Map

Well let me know what you find. I can pull the timer off my parts car and send it to you.