Turbone

The hose is supposed to go to the square looking thing right under it. Its one of the sensors and usually the nipple breaks off. And you can check the codes, I believe I gave you the link in another thread. Just pull off the panel under the steering column and you will see a flat square unit. Thats the ECU. On the side theres a little hole, inside that theres a red LED. Connect the green connector, turn the key on (dont start) and watch the blinks. The link I gave you has the procedure for reading the codes. Simple. Do it. Report back. Thats all.

In your last picture, thats the turbo. It could be some of the heat shields that surround it. Check to see if they are loose. If the shields are tight and if your sure thats where the noise is coming from, you obviously need to replace the turbo. I would remove the downpipe (the piece coming off the back that goes to the exhaust) and reach into the turbo and grab the little fan and see if you can wiggle it. If it does, put up a ad in the Wanted Forum.

Yes, CTS=Coolant Temp Sensor. I suggest you look up the codes on the ECU, then go from there. No sense in hunting around for something when the codes might tell you directly. Also, hearing the fuel pump run while the engine is off (key on?) isnt right either. Theres a single wire green connector by the ECU that needs to be plugged in when checking the codes. I wonder if this is connected now.

The picture was taken before the yard went in. Its fairly new, only about a year old. Its between 59th and 67th, back from the road. Theres a bare dirt patch just to the right of the blue buildings, thats where the PAP is now. You have to turn into where the warehouses are to get to it.

I thought that pic of the interior showed a locking diff switch, but its just a decal for 4wd. But what I said still holds true. Maybe not with this one, but theres some out there. If you get the Vin # we would know for sure.

Its just a unbadged RX. There were some from the factory that never got labeled as a RX but had most of the RX stuff, sans body kit. If you look at the Vin # it will tell you. They are pretty rare, maybe even more than mine.

I have a Snap-On with 2 drawer upper and a side box. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=74162&group_ID=19507&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog The biggest thing I dislike......is having no garage to put it in :-\ Its currently taking up a whole wall in my office.

Bad juju It probably has the biggest gaps in the valve guides.

You need to clean your PM box. Email sent.

You might be able to find the parts over at the XT site. You can start a thread here; http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewforum.php?sid=ce0a2c4b9c3bae69025df9e60e0579ba

It sounds like you may have something in the bell housing. Get under the car and see if the inspection plate has been removed. You might be able to see if theres something stuck in there.

Check the PCV hose on that side to see if its plugged up. Run a wire or coat hanger thru it and see if a bunch of carbon, etc comes out. And the next time I see you, I'm going to kick you in the shin for putting Fram parts on your car

The only thing you need to worry about are the electrical harness plugs from the intake to the Main harness. I had problems because my RX is a later year (89) and the plugs didnt match the 87.5 Spyder intake harness. I just swapped my RX intake harness onto the intake. You should be able to use the stock ECU also. I also see the crate engine is a AT, is your old engine AT? No big deal, you will just have to swap flywheels. Your biggest problem is finding the intake hoses and stuff. I dont think I have anything left, it all got cut up when I installed my TMIC. Which would be a good idea while your doing the swap.

Thats correct. The dealerships did the recall and made the swaps. The 83's got the recall. Most of the 84's came from the factory with oil/watercooled turbo's. Look in your wanted thread, I posted a link for a CL ad. N/m on the CL ad, I just read your post.

Looks very nice. I suggest you invest in a alarm system pronto

Frozen rotors are cryo treated, thats why they are pricey.

I've bought 2 complete sets of D/S rotors from R1 Concepts. They are about the cheapest I've found yet. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Loyale-XT-Coupe-85-94-Front-D-S-BRAKE-ROTORS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem3353c0ea3dQQitemZ220448483901QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

It just shows I know how to do it right

I'll see what I can do. I'm taking a road trip this Sunday and should be able to get some shots with scenery.

They dont make pads for EA82's or ER27's. Glad I did my 5 lug swap so I can get ceramics on the front now. And btw, Hawk pads are very expensive.

It wasnt directed towards you. I went thru 4 used engines before I finally got a clue and bought a CCR engine. I'm actually thinking of building a EA82T with stronger internals, but need to save money up for that one.

Oil change helped that a bunch

Let me just say....If you start with crap, you end up with crap. Plain and simple. Start with a fresh engine, dont go nuts with it and you will have a reliable rig. I have 137AWHP and 171TQ on stock internals. All you haters can keep on hatin.

You wont find anything aftermarket for a Subaru, it will need to be modified. Just like a 5 lug swap. To get a XT6 rear air strut to fit a EA81, you will need to do alot of fabricating to make it work. A air shock for a Jeep should almost bolt right in. I have Rancho shocks on the rear of my EA81 Hatch. It has a fabbed bracket to accept the top mount, but its mainly to help keep the shock away from the wheel well. The OP needs to clarify what he wants to do.

I doubt it. If you want something like that, you would need air bags. Then your looking at big $$$.