Turbone

Sorry, link added. I was trying to head out the door.

Heres a link to the axle swap, its not that hard really. And when I do axle nuts, I dont use a torque wrench. I use my 185lbs and a cheater bar This method is probably not recommended for a newb tho. Dont use the cheater bar. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75786

Its the auxiliary air valve. It should have 2 lines, one from the intake manifold and the other from the intake plenum. I still havent looked at the intake I have to figure out the metal line.

If you arent sure he replaced the axles with new ones, this might be the whole problem. Dont even bother getting rebuilt axles, they are usually junk. Another thing to look at is the axle nut itself. These need to be torqued to 145lbs and then turned another 30deg to line up the hole for the cotter pin. Jack up the car so the tire is off the ground, grab the tire top/bottom and see if you can move the tire. If theres movement, tighten the axle nut more. If theres still vibes/noise w/e, I would replace the axle with a new one

Mines big enough to have both in it. I just keep them separated. I also have a bag I keep in what ever I'm driving. Have enough tools in to do a complete tear down if needed. I also have a 9 drawer Craftsman, but its full of electronics

Just fill it enough that when you stand it up it doesnt drain out. Once you have everything together, fill the tranny the rest of the way.

According to the 86 FSM, timing for a SPFI AT is 20deg and if its carbed 8deg. There should be a label on the hood stating what it should be also. You should refill the TC before re-installing. Also when putting the TC on the tranny shaft, make sure it locks in. Keep turning it and pushing, you will feel it when it does. The mounting tabs should be almost even with the bell housing. Failure to do this will crack the pump during installation of the engine to tranny.

Uh, sure you can. Also make sure the rotor is still attached on the disty shaft.

Yeah, the main culprit with this sensor is corrosion. Cleaning the contacts and replacing the terminals on the wires will usually clean up the code. Check the wires too. If they are hardened, go back to where they are pliable and replace with new wire from that point.

I have let many go by, have also missed alot of buys. But something else comes around and I end up with a better deal. In a few weeks everyone will get to see my latest purchase

Yeah there is, but I've never heard them rattle like that. I have heard the heat shields rattle pretty bad tho, but nothing like what he has in the vid.

Money talks...........but timing is everything :-p

It depends from whom you buy it from. I've sold a good used one for $50 before. I might have another one laying around. I'll see if I can find one tomorrow.

I'm not sure what the metal line is, I dont have this intake on my RX anymore. I might be able to look at one I have laying around, but no guarantees on knowing where it goes. Heres the link to the codes. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

The hose is supposed to go to the square looking thing right under it. Its one of the sensors and usually the nipple breaks off. And you can check the codes, I believe I gave you the link in another thread. Just pull off the panel under the steering column and you will see a flat square unit. Thats the ECU. On the side theres a little hole, inside that theres a red LED. Connect the green connector, turn the key on (dont start) and watch the blinks. The link I gave you has the procedure for reading the codes. Simple. Do it. Report back. Thats all.

In your last picture, thats the turbo. It could be some of the heat shields that surround it. Check to see if they are loose. If the shields are tight and if your sure thats where the noise is coming from, you obviously need to replace the turbo. I would remove the downpipe (the piece coming off the back that goes to the exhaust) and reach into the turbo and grab the little fan and see if you can wiggle it. If it does, put up a ad in the Wanted Forum.

Yes, CTS=Coolant Temp Sensor. I suggest you look up the codes on the ECU, then go from there. No sense in hunting around for something when the codes might tell you directly. Also, hearing the fuel pump run while the engine is off (key on?) isnt right either. Theres a single wire green connector by the ECU that needs to be plugged in when checking the codes. I wonder if this is connected now.

The picture was taken before the yard went in. Its fairly new, only about a year old. Its between 59th and 67th, back from the road. Theres a bare dirt patch just to the right of the blue buildings, thats where the PAP is now. You have to turn into where the warehouses are to get to it.

I thought that pic of the interior showed a locking diff switch, but its just a decal for 4wd. But what I said still holds true. Maybe not with this one, but theres some out there. If you get the Vin # we would know for sure.

Its just a unbadged RX. There were some from the factory that never got labeled as a RX but had most of the RX stuff, sans body kit. If you look at the Vin # it will tell you. They are pretty rare, maybe even more than mine.

I have a Snap-On with 2 drawer upper and a side box. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=74162&group_ID=19507&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog The biggest thing I dislike......is having no garage to put it in :-\ Its currently taking up a whole wall in my office.

Bad juju It probably has the biggest gaps in the valve guides.

You need to clean your PM box. Email sent.

You might be able to find the parts over at the XT site. You can start a thread here; http://subaruxt.com/forum/viewforum.php?sid=ce0a2c4b9c3bae69025df9e60e0579ba

It sounds like you may have something in the bell housing. Get under the car and see if the inspection plate has been removed. You might be able to see if theres something stuck in there.