FirstSubaruGLwagon

Now,,, I really like this tire. The GoodYear ULTRA-GRIP 185/70R13 for around $70.00 http://i.walmart.com/i/p/00/69/76/62/03/0069766203456_500X500.jpg

I saw at WAL-MART. Douglas XTRA-TRAK 185/75-13 for $39.00 each monted and balanced. it's a 40,000 mile All-Weather tire with a good agressive tread. http://i.walmart.com/i/p/00/74/13/17/08/0074131708770_500X500.jpg

Woul'nt this type of dually be hard on the bearings?,,,, considering that Highway duallys are usally balanced and mounted where the two halves meet. however with this set-up the mounting point stays the same and more leverage is given to the outside wheel to pry against the bearing. Am I right or do i have the wrong understanding?

With reguard to buying rims on ebay,,,,, I have found, unless it is a large company,,, it usally is always more expensive after adding in shipping. I would sugest you brouse the wheel rack at your local Junk yard.

I tried to get sealed bearings for my 85/86 wagon, from my local parts stores but all that they were able to find were open bearing and seal sets. Is there a brand name or a website that offers sealed bearing units?

maybe he plans to to make enough money off that load to buy another subaru :-p

Morgan, I think the GIF beside you user name makes people want to lift their subees

in any case,, I do appreciate all the sugestions and experianced input. it's a big help in knowing what direction to take, Thanks again.

http://us.f2.yahoofs.com/users/4132f8e0z5c65a60e/brotherlycommunication/__sr_/f8e1.jpg?pfSd97CBhErs4dTL heres my Pooparu with 275/60-15's and Ford SportTrack finder flares Um, yeah,, "that's that ticket":lol:

easy site for tire calculating http://www.net-comber.com/tirecalc.html?d2=++27.99

well,, from searching the treads,,, the most common answer I could find, is a 25" tire , for the max without rub on normal road use.

thank you for the sugestions and experianced knowlage:) as usual i had it backwards think i will go with the lift,, if I can get one for under 400 ... lets see... .........$400. for lift ..................................$2400. down payment .........$500. for new tranny ................................on a new .........$600. for new motor........OR ....................Forester .........$200. for new bearings .........$700. for paint job total $2400. Humm,,,

Ok,, I have to ask,, forgive me if I sound stupid,,, Was that sun roof an option on those old subee's ?

:lol:ain't technology amazing!

Yeah that would be supper nice! but I have to think about the life of my CVs sence its a daily driver.

there are , I think, drive shaft disk brake kits for 4wd trucks available,,, not sure if you could adapt them to a subee?

Ok first of all,,, I'm poor. But I own an 85/86 wagon and I just did the factory strut adjustment lift of 1.5" in the rear and have a strut adjustment lift in the front of 1" So now,,,, what would you experianced guys say about the tallist tire size?? on 15" drilled 6 lug rim? I was thinking maybe a 205/60-15. any idea's? current tires are about 23" tall, and I was thinking a max of 25" or 26"?

heres a net subee model ,,, a bit newer than what you were looking for. http://www.subaru-sti.co.jp/present/papercruft/

Hi! I used to build paper models. You might try this sorce: http://www.peterjvisser.demon.nl/links.html I think there may be a link to a subee model there.

I know this is going to sound stupid,, but thats the way i normally sound,,,, But,, I recall veagly someone saying something about putting a Jeep cherokee radiator in a subee.. Anyone know anything aboout that?

Thats good news, maybe my tranny is not past all hope

well, I name things wrong,, its actually the (inner tie rods) on the Rack and pinion steering shaft,,, causes the car to shimmy and lose steering. best way to tell if one is bad is to put the parking brake on, jack one side up and the put your hands on the 9 and 3 oclock position on the wheel and try to turn the wheel in and out,,, if you feel at clicking noise or the is excessive movement independant of the other wheel then it is probaly the inner tie rod joint, or (inner ball joint)

For sure, it is an easer setup, however,,,,even in 2wd the rear differincial gear and the pinon gear are still meshing and turning causing drag wear, not to mention the drive shaft UV joints and the carrier bearing are still turning. Even if you never used 4wd, rear differincial maintinance is still a must. but as archemitis said, "it's a car" so convience is more of a priority than utility. Don't get me wrong,,, I absolutly love the fact I can hit the button at 35mph and drop from 4wd to 2wd or vice-versa in my subee. That whole backing up to disingage the hubs in other vehichles, like the mitsabishi and some older Fords, is for the birds.

not sure this will help but,,, if you could heat up the area around the bolt a bit ( maybe using a small torch if ther is nothing flamable around it). and then tap on the head of the bolt with a hammer. Thats how we used to get sezed lug nuts off at the tire shop. In anycase,,, It sounds like you will have to rethread the bolt hole once you get the bolt out. and to be on the safe side use a new matching bolt to the new thread diamiter.

i certinly enjoy the conveniance of push button shift on the fly 4wd. However I can understand the advantages of locking hubs. In 94 I baught a 1970 FJ40 landcruiser for $500 . It had push button 4wd and fixed front hubs. Just for fun I decided to look at the front diffy oil,, it was a metalic slime . I can only assume that that oil had never been changed and those front diffy gears had been turning over 25 years.. First thing I did was change the oil and put warn locking hubs on it. the results were less noise and a very smooth sharp turning raidius in 2wd. Oh and to show how much of a moron I am I sold it for 1500 At on time Mitsabishi had a SUV you had to back up 20 feet to disingage the hubs