FirstSubaruGLwagon

heres a do it yourself

this body might fit on the wagon http://www.rhinobuggies.com.au/

Im stil floating the idea:rolleyes:

I think these bodies could be made to fit a GL or DL what do uo guys think? http://www.wombatcar.com/photos.html

for sure, there is reason for concern.. I took my linkage to a local shop and said 3 inches longer please... I said this assuming they knew what they were doing.. I got the linkage back , 4 inches longer and the dummys had lined up the U joints:banghead: And the man brought it back to me reaking of gen or burbon or wisky or something and it was only 3 pm:rolleyes: I was told that another cut and weld would weaken the metal to much. Thankfuly I was able to disassembe the linkage and mod it without fruther welding:rolleyes: and alighn the joints properly

now it looks like its up to no good , kinda a impish smyle:lol: I yhink the 2 " reciever idea is an absoloute must! you can temparaly mount a winch, or a tow bar, or one of those storage racks to put your fishing chairs on;)

yeah but for most of us here,, "how cheeply can i make this" we usally end up making a brush guard out of a piece of industrial machinery and parts off a shopping cart:lol: remind me again,,, how far does a shopping cart have to be away from the stor befor it becomes public property????:-p

I think something like this would be neet in stainless or alumimium:cool:

humm good question,, most of the time the Rear Diffy configuration seems to be a stander for many years with subaru. best thing you can do is just crawl under and visually check them both out. On a side note,,, here is an accessory that subaru once offered. note the skid plate at the bottom.

remember this? And ofcourse evryone remembers this shot

yeah,, need a picture of a sube hatch with 33's and 26 inches of aticulation siting on a 45 degree angle, crawling over a 6 foot wide bolder with a 12,000lb geared-down winch on the front.

especialy if its a manual steering rack, I have the same noise and after checking tie rod inys & outys and CV joints and ball joints, it turns out the problem, in my case is internal to the steering rack,,, wich I noticed got worse after installing the 4" lift and larger tires.

I downloaded it at 52k ,, only took 40 minuets :-p Great video, looks like alot of fun

Those pre 84 body styes are tight:banana: Looks in such great shape almost hate to see it get dirty;)

Thank you so much for the photos! I have a couple questions. How was the gas situation? What was the unpassable terrain? Is there a web page with info on this trail? Thanks, Dave

I run 20-W50 mainly because, It helps slow the leaks and it helps engine noise and most of the time the weather here is on the warmer side. Plus, Castoil GT 20w-50 seems to stay cleaner longer

thats pretty good travel with the sway bar still connected;)

LOL! good point!

I know this is not the topic,,,, but does it cost anything to use those State highway truck scales???

I would say, one of the most important things to make it last would be keeping the engine and tranny well cooled and well lubed avoid any overheating situation. Just one of many sugestions to come . There is really a wealth of experiance and information on this site.

On safari:grin: impressin neighbors making a Jeep jealous

OK,,, Thanks for all the input and photos! I finaly did my fenders,,, and was able to keep the stock ,although usless now, mudflaps. first I marked out with a white paint pen where i wanted to cut, Then put on my safety glasses and ear protection and long sleaves and gloves. Then used a grinder with a thin cut-off blade,,, very fast, very loud, nice streight lines lot a sparks:cool: "it's so pretty,, ouch,,ouch" nieghbors love me now:rolleyes: Next I cut up to the first flap bolt and made sure to leave a little tab , to fold over for the mudflap bolt. BY THE WAY, WEAR A MASK WHEN CUTTING ALUMINIUM! I will probaly have alhizimers by the time i'm 45.. ( actually , I had to come back and edit this sentance because I forgot to finish it befor submitting:rolleyes:) Then I beat the "poop" out of the lower wheel well area, with a 5 pound sledge:grin: Literaly a bunch of poop,- sand and leaves and mud and rust-,came falling out. The Mudflaps had to be cut and modifyed in a few places in order to line up. Drlled holes for the flap bolts. Used a clear-coat paint sealer on all the cut metal, because I was out of black paint. After mounting the Mudflap back it looked something like this... On the front I used the same white marke and made a gentle ark half way up the finder to about the top of the molding. Cut it and knocked off the slag (wire edge) the painted it . Then I took the O-rig seal out of the lid of a 5 gallon paint bucket(looked alot like a vacume line) and using a utility knife, I slit one side the ring. (This is best done by "feeding" the tube onto the knife blade, a little at a time) Then I superglued the inside of the Rubber ring (hose or tube) and slide it over the cut metal. held it inplace for a while, and WALA! The rear was just a matter of beating the rusty metal back about 1 inch, the wheel now never comes closer that 1/2 inch to the metal. and with 225,75-15's and a 4" lift this is what it looks like

from what Ive seen,,, the "flats" ( like the U joints) on the rack and on the steering colom should be at an 45 degree off-set from each other,,,

take the two screws out of the back of the steering wheel, pop off the horn, get a balancer puller, or a sterring wheel puller, pop out the steering wheel, put it where you want it ,and bolt it back on, and your good to go. some steeringwheels come off without a puller.

well I used to have a Corona "5 door" 4 door hatchback and i snaged one off a supra and made it fit. I supose If you could find one in a junk yard that maybe is on a civic coupe or something, you could mod it to fit