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Subarutex

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Everything posted by Subarutex

  1. Throttle cable was the stock one, with the end cut off and an EMPI throttle cable kit thing on the end. The stock RX one is too long. It cleared the hood just fine. Not sure if it would on a XT. I'm sure after closing it several times everything would work itself out Y-pipe was a used item I picked up off NASIOC. But you should be able to find them on ebay all over the place. Samco, OBX, Prodrive... whichever one you fancy!
  2. Have you driven the car? Normally after you lift it, you need to drive it around a bit to get the suspension to settle out. I would almost bet you don't have anymore positive camber than before, you are just able to notice it more. Also... you did drop the crossmember too, right??
  3. Rotate the throttle body. Man, this seems like such old news! Here's some pics of how I did mine. Basically what you are looking at there is a rotated throttle body, and a samco y-pipe for a WRX, cut with a pipe in the middle for added length. Ultimate got the same Y-pipe treatment too. I never was 100% sure my TPS worked correctly, or if my problem was all in the cams. I also found on ebay a RUBBER (not fancy silicone) elbow that worked for the turbo to MAF intake. I believe it was made by APEXi for custom cold air intake setups. I believe it was like 60mm or something like that. It was a good tight radius.
  4. Basically, yah. I have them in the fronts of my RX. Not the back yet.
  5. Sweeet! Got plans for a graphics package? Can't wait to see it at the show!
  6. You are a long way a way, but a while ago I picked up some fancy tool for doing the rear bearings in the ea82s. I haven't used it yet, nor ever done bearings back there before, but i'm told its supposed to be easier this way. I got it from an old Subaru Tech. You are welcome to borrow it, just not sure how to get it to ya...
  7. I feel that. Now, on top of your own personal project... imagine having to make sure the trophies get made, the shirts, decals, glasses, and handling the pre-registration stuff. I'm up to my eyeballs in WCSS. But damn, I think this may turn out to be one of the best ones yet! Good Luck! Hopefully you get everything done in time!
  8. It comes down to this: XT6's were lucky to get the 5 bolt hub pattern. The rest of the suspension is nearly identical to the normal ea82's in how it functions. The XT6 parts bridge the gap between EA and EJ. Really, the only XT6 pieces you absolutely need are the rear hubs. (and thats basically the entire conversion in the rear). The fronts can be done with reaming your balljoints out for bigger EJ style ones, using EJ front knuckles, and struts. PS. LGT coilovers work on these cars. Thats what suberdave has on his wagon. LGT Tein EDFc's. Me, I'm saving up for some used Megans!
  9. Looks rad. I always thought the sedans were like smaller Cressidas. And those look dope all done up. You need to talk to: Suberdave - He probably has the most BADASS "loyale" on the board, atleast going by what your goals are. Me - Probably the SECOND most BADASS "loyale" here... Now, keep in mind neither of those are sedans. So you will be unique. Nobody does anything with sedans! Feel free to ask questions, most are friendly here! I should have my RX at WCSS if you are gonna make it...
  10. Ok, sorry its been so long for me to get back to you Galen. I haven't had a bunch of time... First, my setup was hella $$$ (~$500) and blingy as all getout, but down to actual functionality... i'm not sure it improved anything. I got my fuel rail here: http://www.rossmachineracing.com/dash6.html Looks like they also deal on EBAY. Dash 6 is MORE than enough. I ordered 2' of it, and cut it down to 4 6" pieces. Each piece was then tapped on the ends for fittings (3/8 NPT, probably a $25-30 tap). I then measured the spacing on the bottom to drill and tap for the injectors. These were also 3/8 NPT. Those spots got 3/8 NPT to hose barb fittings (whatever size is needed to fit the hose on the injectors). I then setup my fuel system like a circle. So the rails were connected with a line on one end, then their other ends went to a T which joined them to the FPR. If I had to do it all over again, this is how I would do it. Remove the stock hose on the injectors. Cut 4 equal lengths pieces of hose to replace that which you just removed (probably 12" long or so). Join these with a brass manifold (like a T but with 5 ports, 1 in... 4 out... i've seen them at lowes). Then you just ahve the in on that go to your FPR. Would be cheaper, equal length, and probably better.
  11. Unless he has an earlier clutch style unit (ea82 vintage) which he refers to in his post. I would think they are servicable, but finding parts from them would be another matter. The LSD's weren't outfitted on a ton of cars, so it goes to reason that the parts for them wouldn't be plentiful either.
  12. I don't know of a place off hand, but http://www.oldoregon.com/ would be a good place to start looking!
  13. Depends. We haven't decided yet. I'm hoping for a seperate engine swap class, but we'll see what happens. I'll be sure to get them to post up the final classes as soon as its decided.
  14. The "I was There" Design was one of the winners of our logo contest. Too see a better picture of the design right now you can go to: http://www.westcoastsubarushow.com/logocontest.html I'll add a link to a larger version so people can see it better. Thanks!
  15. In my parts pile... Ksport '05 GT Coilovers Superpro radius rod and control arm bushings Reamed control arms to accept Impreza ball joints Addco Front swaybar w/ poly bushings JDM STI GC knuckles I'll post a new thread once I get pics, and get all the stuff on.
  16. Don't mod it! Drive it, enjoy it for what it is. Get that "RX" back on the road so you can REALLY have some fun. Trust me, having more than a handful of projects makes you extrememly poor, and none of them seem to progress.
  17. 5 ...... 4 ..... 3 ..... 2 ..... 1 ..... BOOM! ps. congrats on the car, it certainly is a nice one.
  18. Oil sandwhich dealy should work too. I'd imagine one for a Impreza should bolt up fine. For the temp gauge, I just hooked the EJ22 sender into the EA harness. Full sweep is only about 1/3 of the stock gauge. I'm just accustom to 1/4 gauge being running temp (both my EJ22 and my EJ20G sit at that just fine). My EJ20G has a fan setup to come on at a certain temp, so I've never had a problem with that. My EJ22 I just keep an eye on, and flip the fan on if I feel it needs it (stop and go traffic in the hot hot sun mainly). Also for the record, I'm using EA82 gauges, EA81 may differ! I've read about an resistor mod to make it read on the stock gauge better, I just haven't attempted that yet.
  19. I'm going to be running this kit: http://www.wrxtra.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=30_21&products_id=34 For my oil pressure sender. I've found that the stock adapter plug on the EJ22 has BPST threads, not NPT threads. This makes it very hard, and kinda exspensive to find things that will bolt to it without leaking. NPT will kind of thread a ways, but I'm not comfortable enough with the seal... knowing its the wrong kind of threads. Kit comes with the specially made block adapter, some stainless line, a bracket, and a couple other fittings. The line has 1/8 NPT males on both ends. I put together an adapter for the stock EA pressure sender to come down from 3/8 NPT (if my memory is good) to 1/8 NPT for around $10 at my local Home Depot. HatchMonster here spent $40 in fittings from a place to make his own kit (line and everything) yet I believe he put the 1/8 NPT into the BSPT threads...so he didn't have a fancy block adapter like the kit I linked to. I also purchased a 1/8 NPT tap for the purpose of re-tapping the BSPT hole, however, there just wasn't enough material for that to work. Some oil pan bolts are the same size/ thread to work in the block. You could find one of those, drill it, and tap it yourself... Thats what I was thinking of doing before I found the kit. I'm interested to find out which way you choose to go! Good luck.
  20. If you have a problem with something, flag it, and let a moderator deal with it. Posting about it such as you did often makes things worse. If this board was stricter, you might have a leg to stand on about the pictures. But lets face it, we are a pretty down to earth easy going group, and we aren't very nitpicky over such things. I added a 56k warning, so that poor poor users (like yourself? ) know not to waste their time looking here. Although fun fact: Usually time spent browsing internet forums is wasted time already. It has also been a long time since I've met ANY car nut that was so set in their ways that they wouldn't even LOOK at other cars. Regardless if they intended to or not. Lastly, Carlisle is a pretty large car show, with lots of makes that attend. For quite some time, USMB members have been meeting up there and enjoying the show together. It is SUBARU related, the same as a import car show that one of our members shows in is, or the mud run that has more Toyotas and jeeps on it than Subarus. Basically it breaks down to USMB members doing things with their subarus can post about it here. And, they shouldn't have to defend themselves from people such as yourself. BTW... I know you probably aren't as close minded as your post makes you sound, but it sure comes across that way.
  21. hEAt... what kind of camera setup are you shooting with? Your colors are very nice to look at. Thanks for the pics... of ALL the cars. Who's XT6 has teh Volk's!? Thats seriously the hotness. Props! I'm loving the shot of the Gen 2's on the hillside, some very nice rides there. Nice to see some good looking older stuff from the east coast! Carlisle always looks like a good time.
  22. I've found rolling the car forward and back several feet a couple of times will even out your front camber, and you can see what it ACTUALLY is. Honestly though, if you are going to freak about a bit of some positive camber, you lifted the wrong kinda rig! I've NEVER seen a lifted Subaru that didn't have some whack front camber. Also, keep in mind that the camber of the front wheels was positive to begin with (stock). So lifting and adding larger wheel/tires exaggerates whats already there.
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