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arf arf dont let skip tell you your car will burn to the ground did he say this because his suggestion will have you do this? Just asking, because if a rodent or some other cause has created a short in the wiring to the fuse box... well A direct unfused hot wire to the battery positive could...??? Did you by chance check fuse #13 as I believe on your model, this fuse provides power for the coil. The pink connector under the steering column that connects the ignition switch to the vehicle, has been known to cause problems also. Hope this helps

?? HOME :On or into the point at which something is directed: MEADE : Meade (md), George Gordon. 1815-1872. American Union general who commanded the costly victory at Gettysburg (1863). I'm lost? He wants you to direct this at some Civil War general?? The powers of proof reading never cease to amaze

Will sorry to read this, could be ref: Project Meltdown Me thinks it's time for a compression check- no?

The trick is picking one with very small primary throttle bores (like this one) The small bores allow the in coming air to move plenty fast enough through the main venturies. Jetting the mains is just the same as jetting and air correcting one big venturi. Mike W's using a big ONE and his tip on using the larger dia. SPFI manifold helps cut down the restriction in the manifold thus allowing more air flow. I believe the Holley I mentioned above had the two monster bores connected via a common shaft. Read both barrels open simultaneously, causing a much lower vacuum to be formed at the venturi. (It had a monster accell pump to over come this). The secondaries open via linkage on this carb. I do not tramp on it or it would fall flat on it's face. One would have to incorporate an AVS (Air Valve Secondary) to do this or a double pumper design. Evan then your comment on engine volume requirement comes into play -large time. With this you have to "sneak up on" the secondaries. Allowing the air volume the engine is requiring to be high enough to keep the air moving through the seconday venturis high. Jetting/air correcting them is the same. Plug cuts and testing. Thus the comment "It Don't" Off road, as this carb would be the pits. As for fuel econ, stay off deep jabs with the loud pedal and it's not much different than a 32/36. Now we move into the arena of variable venturi multicarbs, SU's or the like, these were found on many "Blokemobiles" TRs, AHs, Jags ect....... I hope to experiment with these soon. I sure hope Al S. chimes in here.

Mark, first, thanks for the quick reply. The 02 should be in the "Y" pipe cat. If the engine is out the wire should be an easy see. (after you get the hood open -arf arf.) The ECU will be under the steering column. The trim panel will need removed. Hate to put you through this, do you remember by chance ever seeing a "Check Engine" light when you turned the key on? Only ECU equipped cars have these. I have not heard back from Trogdor or James so maybe they got it worked out. So hold off on the "neck breaking" please.

HolyL. please see the post above the quoted post for it mounted on the SPFI manifold.

Mark, I'd like to help James if possible. Do you happen to remember if the wagon had an ECU or 02 sensor? Thanks for your previous reply, I'll dig out a emissions eq.wiring diagram

Snowman, do you remember seeing this post ? custom interior tie downs I use a piece of old "mine belt" in the back of my wagon. Tuff stuff to cut I used a saber - jig saw after making a cardboard template. BTW I remove the lower seat cushion so I can have a flat rear cargo area and still lean my seat back. Hope this gives you some ideas

Try a basic reset on the trip computer. It's outlined in your owners manual. Plenty of how to add a few ft lbs of torque links. Biggest by far increase I felt was the replacement of the complete from the turbo back, exhaust with a 2.5" system, this coupled with an intake mod. Your timing is very close, I normally run mine at 25 but it is adjustable from the dash. BTW I never had to plug the greenies in with it running, FSM does not say to do this. If it works for you, that's great Hope some of this helps. You may want to reset the "learn mode" in the ECU by removing the negitive battery terminal for a couple minutes, this will not erase ECU error codes but will reset the learn mode.

Not Solex but 40DCOE Somebody mentioned trying twin SUs or Strombergs? Still on my list as I have several of each. Didn't Holley make down draft 2 barrel they called "the Bug Sprayer"? 500 cfm orsumtin?

Mr.89 GL on the conversion. This board has a very good search function located on the main page near the bottom. It needs more than three letters in a request word so I tried "five speed conversion" for you. You might try some others. Here is the result Conversion to five speed search results

You are welcome. The power locks work via the normal dock lock lever. Most GL models have them. Try locking the drivers door from the inside and trying one of the other doors, and see if the light goes out. The locks are electric BTW. On the head lamps, good idea, I leave them on to. as I don't want a Mister MagGoo trashing my Roo saying "But I never saw you!!"

Sure is Tony, a four barrel WEBER!! none the less. Mounted on a modified SPFI manifold. Rock and way too radical

You might take a look at the wiring in the door hinge before tearing into the door. John has your answer I believe. the "door lock" light means you have not loccked the doors, just a reminder, like the old seat belt warning light. the parking light switch is for using your parking lights when the key is off, maybe sitting along side the road in a non emergency situ. If you have not discovered yet - your headlamps and parking lights only work when the key is on. Hope this helps and welcome to THE Old Gen Subaru board

1) What carberator are U using? 2) How well dose it work off road? It don't My Brat w/EA81 and a 32/36 Weber with some exhaust work pulls very well at low RPM. Remember, carb is only part of the equation for if you put it in, you must let it out.

The carb in the picture has a three wire plug 1) Elect. Choke 2) Bowl Vent sol. 3) ADS Just a wee bit too abstract for me to make a sugg. Again your welcome and I hope someone has a better mind's eye than I ********* UCON WHO??

Raver, you do not give enough information. With the little info you give I will not hazard a guess as to the wiring, I'm sorry. Get a picture, find it in a manual where ever. I will not have you shorting or causing other electrical problems around a bowl full of gas. You are welcome, and good luck.

Well, the ADS (Anti Diesel Solenoid) shuts off the fuel to the idle circuit when the key is off. This is intended to prevent the engine from "running on" after turning it off. The ADS should get battery voltage when the key is in the "run" position. Hope this helps

Raver, is this "sensor" as you call it, one of the two items shown in this picture?

Thanks Scott, that is a very well done and comprehensive article. Tom Will the mount Scott shows be included in this request.

Tom, I saw mention of rear (bed) wheel wells. My interest is in the rear shock mounting area. This I believe is where the wheel well rust issue stems from. (Salt and debris trapped behind the mount) Will the rear shock mounting plate/area be included in your request. May I also add. Thanks for taking on this endeavor

Raver, could you possibly have an 02 sensor on this vehicle? No mention of said vehicle make's it hard to pin point a problem. NO 02 => no ECU I just installed my carb I bought off of Lostwater. It started and ran like new for like 2 minutes then began lobing.(loPing?:ed) Now it wont idle but it still starts and runs. Please let me know what you guys think the problem could be. This time period could be two items 1) the time needed for the automatic choke to open. 2) The time required for the coolant temp to come up to a point where the ECU (if so equipped -see pervious question) goes into "close loop" I need to know what the sensor is for on the carb because I left it disconnected as my car had 3 prong plug and this carb was made for 4 prong. We need to know a bit more about said vehicle to deduct this. If it has an 02 sensor - them it has an ECU I made sure to connect the choke and the other black wire but the sensor wire I left unplugged. I dont know if this would cause the problem but I figured I would ask. If it has an ECU then it should have a "feed back" carb. This type of carb has a control circuit consisting of "duty solenoids" that control the air ingested by the main jet emulsion tube. This is how the ECU attempts to controls the mixture. Also, The car had a coolant leak in the radiator so I was running on really low coolant. Could that cause the car to not idle properly? If the engine was so hot it was approaching some form of thermal lock up then yes, I do not think this to be the case in just several minutes of idling. So you could have a feedback carb on a non feed back system a non feedback on a feedback system a problem with the carb's idle circuit after the choke opens or a problem with where the Mountian Oysters er er 'eers are seeded in March madness

Nobody has mentioned the back EMF generated by the collapsing magnetic field in the relay coil. Okay so.. Lets wire a diode across the coil to thwart this. Also no one talks of the arc produced when the relay contacts open or close. So we wire a capacitor across the relay contacts to dampen this in to a more contact friendly ripple as the contacts do bounce slightly. Okay let fix it by incorporating a Schmitt Trigger. It has two possible states just like other multivibrators. We could use an IC 555 in this endeavor. Now.. we have semi conductors and "electrical" components and all is well?? Anyone ever hear of "line loss" in DC circuits? Is the circuit suffering from hysteresis?

Eric, you are doing a fine job so far. The cam seals and the main crank seal are on the normal "to be replaced" list. You are at the mileage that the T belt tensioner idler bearings may want replaced. Check that little elbow hose coming out of the H20 pump. (Cam covers => valve covers) Read up on the T belt replacement. The Underware manual (Haynes) is a little corn fusing. Yankin' the rad makes it easier and if it hasn't been replaced- well see if it looks like this => toast

Nutt to anser your question a pump is around 100 GWs, These folks have preety good prices http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ But you mat wabt to email Richierich, he has factory pumps at real good prices. See his comments here http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11464&highlight=rebuild+kit%2A Now do you have a manual? You might consider doing some other maintance as you will have the entire front of the engine dismantled. There are quite a few items you may want to change. Just a thought in case you want to get the parts before hand. Good luck,