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William is correct, I am wrong. The hose pictured as "C" does connect to the lower side of the intake plenum and is coming from the AAV. Sorry for the misinformation. BTW many posts have stated that the non genuine PCV valves for turbos are not to be used. They cause problems with oil in the intake tract. For the price you should use a Subaru part for this.

The EA82T has two coolant sensors, one for the dash gauge which is mounted on the upper rad housing (gooseneck)and sits horizontally The one for the FI system (coolant thermosensor) is the one GD speaks of. Sits vertically and is very deep and somewhat hard to see or service. Do not mistake the knock sensor for it as it is in the same location but the KS is screwed into the block. Here is a shot of a bare intake with it located Hope this helps

good info given thus far. Cold flooding? Could it be running lean?? that is what a bad or corroded CS will cause. ah? a clutch on a turbo EA81?? a.k.a. EA81T Hey guys - did we miss something here? Who did the swap, thought they all came with slushbox trannies?

Brian, the comment on the hot wire MAF Some people do not know if they have a Hot Wire or Vane (a.k.a. flapper door) set up. Your picture will let them identify the fuel system they have, nice work. Yes on the AAV, mine has been "silly conned" for over a year with snow worries, mate. Have fun and welcome to the world of the EA82T

Brian - nice find. good shot of the Hot wire MAF You are correct A -turbo outlet to B - throtttle body (intake manifold) inlet is where you put the IC C - is part of the PCV system and is connected to the the MAF to turbo pipe. It and the other lines connected to the plastic "triple tree" all have a function in the venting and control of crank case vapors. DO NOT restrict the flow of these vapors as a positive crank case pressure will blow cam seals our (BTDT) I have all of my PVC vent lines run to a commom filter to keep oil out of my intake tract. A new Subaru PCV valve will help control the oil in these lines. D - is the electrical connection for the AAV (Aux. Air Valve) it increases the idle speed via ECU control when the engine is cold. Mine was also broken. As long as the electrical parts are intact and it works (increased idle at cold start up) glue the top back on with some silcone. The top portion is isolated from the vacuum control chamber below. Note: the electrical connector on the top is the same as you will find on many components - these are fun to remove -two short pieces of solid core wire will help hold the clips out and the boots love to crack and break allowing H20 to enter and corrode the connections. as I said - it is just a start. Some one else fills will fill in the details.

I used a Jegs high flow three way - only 2.5 " turbo back maybe a little far from the engine will find out next emiss. inspect Sounds nice and quiet untill I open the tailgate.

As WJ said, it is in the factory location, I buy a bung that is made to replace damaged ones and weld it in place. the X over pipe: I bought a cross over from Morgan from an EJ 22 turbo and am going to marry the best of it to the jig I got from Witte for the EA82

First I would do I little investigating. The oil may be ring blow by (all us turbo owners expierence it) The oil finds it's way into the intake via the PCV fittings (there are two) that go into the MAF to turbo pipe (the corrugated rubber pipe with the plastic can on it) A new PCV valve from Subaru (aftermarkets are bogus) may solve this problem. BTW the oil galleries on your turbo are inside the cooling passages, the oil would end up in the coolant not the intake. Getting a turbo rebuilt is normaly a job for a professional as the balance and sealing is critical due to the RPM the turbine shaft rotates at. Do as you wish. Hope this helps

sure thing, will have to drag out the scanner (I work on a laptop), you mind telling me where to send it? As far as I know the profile email doesn't let me attach files.

I have a FSM for this turbo FI system, I could scan the ECU wiring and email it to you if that would help? You will need the ECU from under the rear parcel shelf.

My Brat "Brat Patrol" has internal rust flakes that plug up the pick up tube. A Harley rider friend speaks of a gas tank sealer they use on old shovels tanks and such First an acid "etching" solution is added, then the sealer is put in - sloshed about, the excess poured out and then let it dry. Has anyone ever heard of this treatment? A quick Goggle search turned up one of my favorite companies POR 15 Think I may try this http://www.rags2riches1299.com/faq_gastank.html This is feasible for our applications (all boneyard tanks in my area look toast and 300 GW's is not in the cards Maybe I should post a new thread?

A famous bloke mechanic, imported for a P- burg vintage Gran Prix, told me when asked about erl "Aye mate, we only use Castrol 20w/50 - as all others r sludge" Been using it ever since wit snow worries.

These guys have hit the ol' wood holder on the cranium. Are you certain your boost gauge is calibrated??!! Removing the control rod from the waste gate actuator is a bit of a pain. You could first remove and plug the rubber line to it. I have never seen one "hang open" but yours could be, thus the reasoning behind removing the control rod. If you choose this method. You will have to some how tie, prop or make sure the waste gate "flap" is forced to stay closed. With out the rod it would be free to "flap" around as it is held closed by an internal spring in the acuator. This internal spring that holds it closed could also be knackered. This could let it open at an early pressure. Removing just the rubber line to it would show this. Adam's comments on the exhaust sytem deserve checking for sure. You ask Does the ECU restrict the amount of boost No that is the sole job of the waste gate, but it has the ability to increase boost via the waste gate solenoid. The ECU will enact a fuel cut if you run over 9 psi for a period of about 3~5 seconds. Hope this helps, please let us know.

One thing to consider is if you drill the hubs for 6 lug, you must find another 6 lug wheel for a spare. That is if you are concerned about this aspect? You could just "Slime" the tires

Adam, I got mine from this guy, his name is Ian ianfs (at) cox.net If you email him, he may send you the diagram and parts list for it. It's a nice "package" connects to the 02 sensor as most do.

Trog has it just about right, it is ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil, not water. Stored in a small tank and coupled via a solenoid valve to the intake manifold (look in the upper right corner of my engine bay on the 87 wagon turbo mod post and you will see it http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4368 ) This 50/50 mix is drawn in by intake manifold vacuum when I open the solenoid via the red button. BTW This is an old timers tune up of sorts. It burns hot enough to remove carbon deposits which form durring normal operation. I do not use it often, and have had no adverse affects (have had it for a couple years) I did try the water from a washer fluid squirt (used a washer bottle in the small compartment in the rear of the wagon) but my exhaust was not hot enough to produce enough smoke. Raw unburnt oil into a cat may be harmful, but like eyesore says, what do I know.

it's on the first page now give the link a try again or look at the post "87 wagon mods update"

Oddcomp, cams are a doable project does anyone remember the company that was doin regrinds at a reasonable price (like 50 or 60 bucks a side)?

Diamond Star, welcome to the Pleiades Constellation. The RX ten speed tranny is a direct swap into your GL - console will need changed to fit the hi/lo lever and center diff lock switch. This tranny gives you almost a half gear in between your normal five speeds. Never heard of an Al flywheel, we do trim 6 or 7 lbs of fat off ours. The XT6 flywheel is a bit lighter, as Caboobaroo said If you are lucky enough to find a RX in a bone yard grab the rear diff also (it's a LSD unit) Do make sure your rear diff is the same ratio - should be a 3.7 (label on diff) Enkei sold a few alloy rims for our cars, not sure of the offset there is not a lot of preformance eq for our cars, as you have found out. Have a look here for some ideas http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=4368 Welcome aboard THE vintage Subaru board

Styles, way kewl, I do have a screen but it's for an O-scope. I only put mine in when I am doing a study on a particular system. Runs off the same inverter the digital themometer for the oil and H20 work off of. This shot was pre dash extension. Myxalplyx - email me, I'll gladly streer you though any of the mods you see here.

colder plugs will help with the pre-ignition but will burn cooler and foul more easily, I believe. They shed more heat to the bock by having a shorter ceramic insulator. I would not go very far off factory gap as I have heard of spark blow out at higher boost levels. Are you running an aftermarket ignition system? I can't remember if Brian ever got the MSD system to function properly. If so - Does your car still retain the anti knock circuitry with this ignition system you are running?

okay so we chain drive the tranny out put shaft yoke to a sproket on the rear diff??

Sha Zam!

If I am not mistaken the fuel pump should run for app. 1.5 sec. each time the key is turned from off to the run position This no doubt "recharges" the fuel system pressure for any leak down that may have occured during the off period. It could be 1) What Glen was referring to - the ECU not providing the negative side of the fuel pumps electrical connection. 2) the fuel pump relay not providing the positive side to the fuel pump electrical connection. This, I believe, is not controlled by the ECU but a direct connection from ignition switch to the fuel pump relay. You or some one friendly with a voltmeter can trouble shoot this. The relay looks like this and you may have to take down the ECU to get to it (note the ECU mounting points are slotted - you do not have to remove the three 12 mm nuts) Hope this helps

On SPFI models they are found under the hood by the driver's side hood hinge. the two set colors are White and green . Hope this helps, Al has more info for you on SPFI checking if needed.