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Welcome to the USMB Heia, I took the liberty of showing you what WAwalker was refering to and of the pulley Imdew pointed out. Hope you don't mind. I would assume you looked for external leaks so an internal leak would be a good guess. Was there any signs of coolant in the exhaust? Hope this helps. Your command of English is great.

I'm with Walker on this one. Nipper needs to cease and desist on this denial he is in. He is one of the best techs we have on the board, he will set straight mis-information posted faster than a bolt of lighting. But His constant rhetoric in denial of the fact that Subaru EJ25 (of the era Walker portrays) has a head gasket problem is getting tiring. I must add. This type of mis-leading information is not Nipper's style. It must be his evil twin doing it. (Can't wait for his come back on this one.)

Dc you folks that use the generic "Make Offer" do have an issue. At the very least you should say "Make offer over XX bucks" or "I would like to see at least XX " Please do not be offended, we the buying public are cheap sakes and we will low ball the people who by default ask to be low balled. Then!! The link to some nonsense site that must be logged into??? Upload your pictures to the USMB, you have space just go to the photo section. Upload them to your name. Push (click) the little mountain and moon symbol copy paste the URL of image in the space provided. Use the image properties tag to copy this URL. as such I hope this helps more than offends.

psych, since you are new to the EA82T finding the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor) may be difficult. First it does not have anything to do with the temp gauge as you allude. That is the coolant thermometer. Below is a shot of the intake manifold with all the top stuff removed. Following what gary says you can see the corrosion in the "well" where the contacts are. The knock sensor is in the same area but more towards the drivers side and screwed into the block. The other codes are probably ghost codes set one time it did not start. Hope this helps

42 Kmi 2002 Limited Probably get it for around 2 grand. oh one more small "buff outable" problem

Both previous post have merit and should be checked. But I have seen Seafoam work some magic in these cases. It may take 100 miles to work though.

I'm sorry I do not understand what you mean here by the word "headlights" Do you mean the factory headlights or the JDM headlights? I have no reference for the JDM wiring, I'm sorry. The question I am forming centers around the mystery blue wire. It may be the feed for the hi beam indicator on the dash. This seen as a Black with yellow tracer on the diagram. Can you read and do you understand the wiring diagram? Can you use a multimeter? Each head lamp (RH and LH) have different power inputs. A saftey feature so you do not become Stevie Wonder on a dark highway if one headlamp's fuse goes open.

I do not know how to say this politely Everything on this thread is wrong. The paint picture in the first post is incorrect as far as the headlamp wiring on you Subaru is concerned. -again I'm sorry to come off as such a "hanging appendage". Below is the wiring diagram for your headlights as per the factory service manual 1997 Legacy/Outback Please notice the power or +12 Vdc as you show it is incorrect. The incoming power is fed to both the high and low beams. To operate a beam, the hi/low switch grounds the filament you want to light. ( This is opposite from the way you portray. You show it as if the switch is providing +12 Vdc.) What you have shown is the old school "domestic" style headlight system and bares no resemblance to the Subaru system. I hope this helps. Please ask questions if you do not understand this diagram.

Just a couple of lame comments 1) how much gas is in the tank? 2) if you loosen the line from the fuel filter does gas spue out? 3) I (maybe others) would like to know what fuel system this "GL 10" has? Might help the trouble shoot. 4) as far as the injectors if it's MPFI There is a silver rectangular box on the pass side strut tower This is the resistor block for the injectors. Test to see if it has battery voltage when the key is on. The ECU grounds the other side of the injector to open it. Hope this helps if it is just "phooey" I will delete it.

Here is what John eludes to, to see if this will help run a jumper wire from the battery + to the small spade connector on the starter. If it cranks this will fix it.

I am at a loss as to Suzam's answer? Frank asks about keyless entry not power locks?? Yea you have to have power locks in most cases for keyless entry but ?? Anyhow, Frank look under the dash on the drivers side. You may need to remove the lower dash panel. The keyless entry module is a black box located normally on the outboard kick panel. It will have a sticker saying something to the effect of keyless entry. Another indicator is the presence of a push button located in the same general area. This button is the programing /service button as mentioned here Subaru Keyless entry Hope this helps.

The Captain asks "How do I check this?" You will have to get under the dash then move the slider lever. The cable's inner wire moves the door. Make sure clips and inner wire are all intact, Once you find the door see if you can push it further than the cable is moving it. I have another comment. My GL turbo had luke warm heat the year I forgot to change the thermostat to the winter version. I ran a 180 deg in the summer and a 193 deg in the winter Doesn't sound like much but sure made a big diff in mine. I say this because I see you changed yours. Maybe they sold you a 180 not the 193? Could be a simple fix??

here's one 22" wide http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/508169031.html When I mounted mine I put a door on the opening in the hood as I live in the salt belt.

I'm just a old fart so discount (senior or other wise) what I say. With all the mention of some cold start issues ect. Why not test or swap out the CTS?? It's the pig tailed sensor in the upper rad goose neck. It's just a varriable resistor, values vs temp can be found and measured. If this has been done, please excuse this diatribe.

Thanks for the quick reply WA. Just what I needed to read, coming from you, I trust it implicitly.

I have an 03 VDC with factory 16" wheels. I also have a set of Legacy GT 16" wheels. Before I subject myself to the winter weather for a trial fit. I would be much obliged if some one could definitively tell me they will or will not clear the front brake calipers. Side note: the GT wheels have nice snow meats and the factory alloys have all weather meats.... thus the question -- cheap sake that I is Thanks in advance for your support.

"I only found OBDII in the USRM" Try this page from the old USRM (scroll down for 88 and later MPFI models) Subaru ECU Error Codes

The G's (D and Loyale) are giving you the right stuff. You might want to try some "Lucas" PS fix first. Cheap "whatagot to loose" trial.

WA is on the right track. I have two simple questions to add/ask. where did you get the wires? (i.e. OEM or aftermarket) what plugs did you use?

Suzam says it all. To reprogram the remote you will have to find the service button. It's a momentary switch (button) under the dash. Sometimes hanging loose sometimes installed in a hole. May have a red colored button. Find your system here and follow the instructions Subaru Keyless entery BTW the remote is a RF (Radio Frequency) transmitter not IR (Infra Red)

not to be a dolt here but by chance have you checked to make sure the heater "blend door" is moving through it's full motion? If so please ignor this post and try the core only flush GD has recco'd. The following may be obvious therefore the small font. Since there is no coolant control valve all "mixing" is done via a blend flap/door.

Howdy Todd, You ask "could one or more be causing others?" Answer is maybe, the problems you have had could be setting "ghost" codes. Try clearing the codes* and checking them again as soon as you get a CEL (*info for this procedure is in the USRM) The cleaning of the contacts that GD mentions is mainly for the MPFI units. Their CTS contacts get corroded from being in a "well" where water tends to collect. Your SPFI unit does not have this type of connection as you correctly state. You problem is probably related to the IAC. But you could also have other problems. The ECU is your friend in these endeavors. The Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is mounted on the front of the throttle body, this unit is known for gumming up and causing idle issues just as you describe. It should be cleaned at regular intervals. There are several methods -> all can be found by searching Note: the search function needs four letter words or the use of the wild card * e.g. IAC* not just IAC The CTS in your case can be easily tested as it is a variable resistance. The chart for these resistances vs temp can be found also by searching. If you have problems finding these articles please ask for assistance. Hope this helps.

sorry Ivan, I do not believe this is what Bratbros has in mind. The flywheel on these engines have a "step" between the pressure plate mounting surface and the clutch disc surface. When a flywheel is "surfaced" both surfaces must be turned the same amount, thus maintaining the proper "step". Look closely at the following picture you will see this step on the rusty flywheel I am about to turn. Unfortunately I do not have the EA81 specs but can provide EA82 specs. I am not positive they are the same thus I will not speculate. I am sorry I can not provide the answer I just wanted to clarify the question.

sorry Ivan -> 87 if it has 4wd will not have an 02 sensor not in the US anyways, no ECU either. Martin, on the front of the carb is a hexagon protrusion with a single wire emanating from it's end. This sir, is the Anti Diesel Solenoid (ADS). It's function is to prevent "run on" after switching the ignition to off. It does this by shutting off the fuel flow to the idle circuit. This sounds like one (1) of your problems. The wire to it can break right at the solenoid. The power to it should be checked. It will "click" when the key is turned on if it is operating. The valve inside may be stuck but that is rare. If the electric choke is functioning properly the ground is intact and not the problem. If the choke has power and the ADS does not, you might try jumping a wire to the ADS from the choke to verify the problem. By chance have you looked for a fuel filter under the car beside the fuel pump? Hope this helps.

RONAN asks " On where to start looking?" Start looking under the hood, beside the spare tire on the pass. side. Sitting on the "shelf" should be a white cannister. This is the vacuum reservoir. It has a check valve to retain vacuum under the low vacuum conditions you mention. Check that the check valve is "checking" Follow the line leading to the driver's side looking for cracks or breaks in this line. IF you have 4wd it will lead to two solenoids in front of the wiper motor. There could be a leak at the connection to these solenoids. The line then goes inside the cockpit to the HVAC control panel. Listen for leaks under the dash while the engine is idling. Hope this helps.