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Named my XJ6 Maya. I'll bet Daeron knows the connection.

Jim the red/white wire separated from the main harness and goes to the other side with the other colors minus the green/white May have to look under the rear gate sill plate. PLEASE follow what Chef Tim said. The camper will have the stop lamps and the turnsignals combined into one lamp per side. Your Subaru will not have this setup. Trust me on this one you need the "converter" box" Tim speaks of. (Uhall, Napa, Walmart ect will have it) I pull several trailers with several of my Roo's

Come on Nug, I loved my series III. She was very nice lookin' in her BRG Besides.... She had at least 250 USD of primo Lucus bread copper in it's wiring alone!!! Now about the Audi 5000s I had......

Jim, I'm sorry it raining too hard for me to go out and look at my 97 Outback But all my 94/93 Legacy wagons have the connector you need to splice behind the cover directly behind (in front of) the tail light. The same cover one uses for changing the light bulbs when they burn out. Hope this helps, if not I'll check my Outback in the morning.

This was again asked of me so lets start a list of threads pointing to fixes. This problem is for those that still have at least high speed (as it by-passes the resistor block). And are missing one or more of the lower speeds. The problem is burned out coils (resistors) in the resistor block. At the stealer new - ~ 40 USD At the boneyard - ~ 5 USD Please note: Power is fed to the blower motor from the relay. The ground side of the motor is fed through these resistors via the blower speed switch. The relay providing power is another matter. See below threads for possible fixes IF you have no blower speeds. Here is a shot of the offending part. The resistor block. This taken looking up under the glove box Hope this helps. All comments and links are welcome.

one word - priceless Blue Jay shot is just wayyyyy toooo kewlllll

Pep Boys has them. Kingnuts or something like that. McBrat or Qman turned me on to them for Pug nuts.

Thanks Porc, the propane is used in the winter months for the radiant heater mounted on the bench, it rolls to the location I am working. The issue you bring up with the external leak in the Phase II 2.5's is a valid one I believe. Nipper quoted combustion pressure never seen by this leak. The leak you mention is caused by only the pressure in the coolant system which is limited by the rad cap rating. Valid point - if it's weak it could get weaker flexing it as it were - in/out. If it were plugged by the Subaru "special" oatmeal - I can see it being sucked out of the gap. With using the bleed nipple (if available) gravity would keep the coolant under the air. This would be the same as filling it from a jug and funnel. Keeping the bleed nipple as the highest point in the system would be understood.

In your zone of the planet I'll bet adding some wheels and a tongue so it could be trailered. Then add a gen/alt set up for 120v and welding, with a convert for the air compressor - 2 cyl x 2 cyl. You'd be Snowking OR You could do what I hope to and put it in one of these

That is the correct place. Now does he know about "burping" Maybe air is trapped in the system?

Here's my ezbleed setup I use it for brakes and will give your method a try when I change my coolant. vacuum pump from my screen printing dept vacuum flask from my chem. dept Thanks again for the idea.

Nice job Porc, Did you give any thought to connecting the vacuum to the bleed port on the pass. side of the rad and then intro the coolant via the stopper setup. This would prevent the vacuum build up some are concerned with.

Thanks Porc, way kewl!! Me bets it's line " d " that got the problem. Thanks again!!

Tell her to have the CTS and the IAC checked out she'll be inluvwidya. http://www.subarusvx.com/ http://www.subaru-svx.net/

OR You could try my "Skip-Po Signature Series" trim rings, chrome acorns and centercaps

Not wanting to pick the nicks The potentiometer in the housing can build up deposits and any good electronic contact cleraner can be used. Rare --> but then Sir Loin was well done.

I'm not positive on the 86 but on the 87's it is located above the ECU -> which is above the drivers left knee when seated. That is the panel you must remove, take down the ECU to make room. Way up in there amoungst the wire jungle it will share the location with other relays snapped in to a row. They all are the same and all look like this Hope this helps.

Good points by Daeron and beataru (thanks for the dash comp) the switch beataru mentions is on the line to the receiver dryer or screwed into the unit 's body. It is called a "trinary" switch. The item Daeron mentions is called the "Pulser coil" it is found on all the Hitachi units but I don't think on all the Panasonic units. (some do. some dont) Every one I have worked on has it. The FSM recco's a clearance of 0.12" form it to the surface of the clutch. If the micro switch trick fails to produce operation of said system please follow their sage advice. Skip-out

Thanks JoAnne, I am gonna have at it today I hope. How does the carpet come up back there? BTW I have never had the rear seat in the up position and somehow "stuff" just accumulates and takes refuse back there. For that matter it has migrated to the front passenger chair. This may be a good time to shed some pounds and gain some mileage - ?? 1994 Legacy AWD wagon -single seater

I agree with Chux but you need to learn to walk before you can run. Do a bit of reading on doing a carb swap to a Weber 32/36. Take the muffler off and replace it with a free flow unit. i.e. start small -> work up Like Chux says - drive it and enjoy it, get comfortable with wrenching - then dive in the deep end. I have been on this board a long time and have seen too many over zealous projects end up in disaster due to many things. Just a thought from an old wrench. I must add. Nice to see such enthusiasm and I wish many miles of smiles in your new Roo.

Porc thanks for the pict/reply. I bet that is the place, might be a bit different on a 94, these line are most definetly coming down the driver's side of the tank which the lines in your pict are pointing. They could start on the pass side and convert to steel before decending?? Then back to fuel line then back to steel then... I can't tell where it is from your photo. I will try to lift the right behind the rear seat cargo area carpet and look for something similar.

Mr Dundee may I ask who is "they" Possibly "they" did not know the thermostat was at the block side of the lower rad hose. Not many car's Tstats are mounted in this location. Maybe they stuck one in up top spmewhere??? I don't know where. Now you have twins.

Thanks for the back up Bratman I admit I'm an olf dart er er -- old fart butttttt. I do appreciate the reply.

Thanks Jack, will do. John, thanks for the reply, I thought both my posts said 94 AWD??

Poop, I would use the guide and verify all the power wires have power. Even if it plays... There may be a missing link. Click below for a wiring guide for Subaru radios says WRX but read the intro Radio Wiring pinout