1 Lucky Texan

could be some intake air component is loose, that will create noise underhood.

how old is the belt, how's it look, etc.

pretty old so, hard to argue about changing it. They are not overly pricey. User @lmdew might have some used ones..... If you want to experiment, clean it. They sometimes collect enough rust/ferrous particles to become intermittent. But, be prepared for it to not come out in one peice. They sometimes are corroded in-place. How old are the timing system components?

at www.subaruoutback.org , there is a thread about FreeSSM and similar tools. Maybe someone over there can assist with the question? (SSM=Subaru Service Monitor, the dealer's software)

maybe engine temp sensor is bad? if the ECU doesn't know the engine is cold, it won't 'choke' (increase injector time).

Is the downshift flare only happening at highway speeds? Try a battery disconnect reset and then road test. If better, yeah, they all do that(seriously)

Best option may be a trans swap. Check car-part.com are you able to get the car to http://superiorsoobie.com/ ? user @GeneralDisorder or one of his guys could advise you.

I also replaced a tensioner with oil on the top. But, I have seen a document from Subaru saying it's OK. I don't regret what I did, just wondering what GD, Ido, others think is going on?

you could compare to the movement of the other side. They can rotate a lot as various parts' 'slack' is taken-up. not sure other movement to which you refer...? I think most of us would just fix the brake issue and drive the car. If grease/rubber/wheel speed sensor got too hot?, well, maybe something will begin to fail more severely, then , just fix it.

Blackstone labs may be able to confirm silicone oil or wet clutch material in a fluid sample. But I think most of us would be confident with the cold vs warm change in behavior.

well, I bought manifold gauges and sometimes now get a 'loaner' vacuum pump from the parts house to work on a/c but, really, I sorta regret the expense and hassle compared to a GOOD a/c shop. They have sniffers, vac pumps that aren't worn-out, UV dye/lights, know places locally that can build new hoses, etc. read here; watch some auto a/c youtube videos to see what's up. Subaru a/c is not really special or unique in anyway so, almost any medium/small car a/c will be similar. The system has a low pressure cut-out switch to protect the compressor in case of complete refrigerant loss - since all the oil could be lost as well - and you probably have lost enough refrigerant to trigger that.

EASILY could need a coupla new o-rings on the hoses at the compressor and a refrigerant top-off. you should be able to use google, yelp, etc. to find a decent a/c specialist near you.

slightly stiffer springs on KYB could be a good option, less body sway and less squat and dive. I have SPT 'pinks' on my WRX, love it. But you would likely need something different for off-road/soft-road use..... you can do a lot of different things and I applaud you for researching it first. The folks here have a lot of experience.

usually, the pedal assembly failure throws a code, P21?? something......?

Tires must be the same brand/model/size. It matters. If the rolling radius is different , by even a tiny amount, you can get torque bind. if there's a chance the trans or rear diff where swapped, they may have mismatched final drive ratios. That said, working OK when stone cold, failing when warm is a classic center VLSD failure symptom.

a moderator could probably help you change the user name. welcome aboard!

I did have some stuff going back, but, probably 100+ pounds less mass than when I came north.

just mentioned as he said motor would be out and he's doing the timing belt system.

on some of the older engines, the screws holding the oil pump in place can loosen up.

yeah, left a little early and skipped lunch so, got in a coupla hours sooner than expected. Some good news on the family front, some not great but, that's how it goes. stuck on the highway with a thousand other people outside raton for 15 minutes or so, both sides blocked. Some kind of road construction or bridge work or rock clearing.....dunno. got 26.3mpg, then 24.9mpg on the next 2 tanks. Drove 1518 miles total. Not sure why the variability on the fuel, other than wind and a/c use.

thanx, leaving Amarillo soon. Probably skip lunch and get back home asap as my wife said my MIL is very ill. Not unexpected but she may need me to take her to visit her Mom or fill-in watching the grandson, etc.

They have been, and likely still are in many places, heavily subsidized by taxpayer dollars. G'mint picking winners in the market place. 1/2 the total electric cars sold go to California. State an local subsidies and generally battery-friendly climate. I don't consider myself anti-electric anything. I have a lot of battery powered tools and batt lawnmower. But let the market decide.

next tank, 26.6 . Had some secondary road miles, and trips to see lmdew and traildog. But, the next one will have head/cross winds and a lot of high speed miles. car solid.

what did the old plugs look like?

if the oil was on the plug boots and plug porcelain, that can short high voltage and kill the ignition.