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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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My first concern was , that you had installed a non-Subaru t'stat. They are known to be problematic. Supposedly, Stant just recently began offering an Xacstat, made to be a precise soob replacement. But I don't think there's much experience with it yet. You could try one from the Dealer, but, like you say, seems like it may be working. At 216K - is it time for a timing belt/tensioner/etc.? maybe the belt is dragging on the water pump??? What prompted you to do this work in the first place? was there cooling problems before?
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in addition to camber problems, as wear accumulates, the wheels can toe-in too much under force. maybe check steering components for wear, or have the alignment shop toe out very slightly.
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I can't believe they still make such a thing, I tried one about 30 years ago - epic fail.
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Mine was ruined by battery corrosion and probably me trying to clean battery corrosion on the wife's 03 H6 OBW. Aftermarket pump from AutoZone seems to work better than the original. A little tricky to pop into the supplied new gasket in the side of the tank. Some minor re-wiring. Have an independent mechanic do this for you if you're not a DIY-er. It isn't much more difficult than an oil change in difficulty.
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Any Opinions out there on brake parts?
1 Lucky Texan replied to Demon Brat's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
If you want to upgrade brake performance for the street, just get better pads on decent rotors. Maybe stainless steel brake lines.(though, new rubber OEM would likely feel better than the old lines too) Stoptech Street Performance pads, or well, many other choices. Drilled have a reputation for cracking, slotted will accelerate pad wear. GOOD pad material will not out-gas like older formulas and that is what slots and holes were created to alleviate. If he wants to dress-up the brake area, there are high-temp paints you could use on the caliper and maybe the center part of the rotor. Read the 'white papers' here for some good info on brakes; http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers -
Maybe check around on an Isuzu newsgroup or general auto - perhaps those vehicles have a known intermittent crank angle sensor or relay or.... that is well known. My daughter had a 90 maxima that would stall out intermittently. i asked on a nissan newsgroup, a nissan tech suggested a relay that fixed the car!, then I sent him a sixpack of Lonestar beer via UPS! true story
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As a general rule I recall from 'the old days' a tire's rotation direction shouldn't be reversed. Of course, tires may be better/more tolerant of that these days. dunno I'd have it flipped i think. Even if I had to pay for it. But, really, what kinda tire shop doesn't mark direction when they take stuff off, and pay attention when they mount them. That's tire swapping 101 lol!
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Will County Threshermen's Association
1 Lucky Texan replied to rrogergrant's topic in Vehicle Videos Online
somewhere around here, I have a very old book called The Science of Successful Threshing. All steam powered stuff IIRC!!! -
Reassurance thread; oil pump (and one question)
1 Lucky Texan replied to l75eya's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
be sure to disable the ignition/coil/igniter first. -
replaced o-ring seal on the small housing holding the suction hose from the tank on top of the wife's 03 H6 OBW's power steerin pump. It was hard and no longer sealing, allowed lots of air to get sucked in and made the pump whine. Used an 80 cent part from Ace Hardware! hope it lasts a little while.
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See, I agree with something I heard once on a car talk radio show. I want a system that UNlocks the car above 30-40 mph and locks it at lower speeds. Reduce car-jacking attempts at stop lights, but, if you're in a wreck at freeway speeds - they might be able to get you out without waiting for jaws-of-life to cut the car apart because the doors are locked.