1 Lucky Texan

no brake fluid disappearing or dripping? is this model like some later ones where corroded hardlines might let bf 'pool' on top of the fuel tank or something?

7 days is really miserable. a few folks around here had 4days+ . Gens and house back-up system sales will skyrocket I'm sure. covid exacerbated things, then, you've got much less-prepared road treatment/clearing in TX. Ill prepared generating plants.....crazy. Roads are bad AND power-cut grocery stores tossing out refrigerated food, can't process credit cards/check-out w'ever. How do you boil drinking water in all-electric home with power out? Never thought I'd see ALL 254 counties under winter storm warning. about as close to a Black Swan event as I want to get. It will likely surpass Hurricane Harvey as State's most expensive disaster. Some very sad stories coming outta this. 11 yo died from hypothermia in his home with his family. Apt building burns and FD can't get water..... I know people want to do a lot of finger-pointing. And hopefully some lessons will be learned but really, no one can be fully prepared for everything. If you made drivers wear helmets and stay under 35mph - there would still be traffic fatalities.

I dunno, but, maybe try a batt disconnect reset? is the defrost setting selected on hvac? maybe try a setting without the a/c comp.? just some easy things to try....

yeah, -2*F official, could have been 1-2 degrees warmer at my house of course ? we have extremely variable weather, you pick most any day in winter and look at the difference between record high and record low numbers - frequently 70+ degree spread. for today? record low (1939) = 18*F record high (1996)= 95*F tomorrow L (1963)= 19* H (1996)= 93* we feel extremely lucky, other than low water pressure for a coupla hours, we did OK in my 55 yo house in my tiny enclave with its own wells for water. Never lost ac power or gas and it seems we managed to avoid any plumbing damage. I double insulated the hose bib /sillcock w'ever on the north side. We had filled a few conatiners w/xtra water. Charged-up MIL's portable O2 concentrater batts. I also have an inverter that uses my lawn equipment batts that I charged. We could also get in the car and run her oxy for a while on 12V, but, we were preppared to call 911 in case we needed O2 tanks. You know, just tried to prep as much as possible beforehand. Sure wish we had gotten new windows installed (still have single pane 60s style aluminum) but covid and presence of MIL shut down that project (and some others.)

-2 here a coupla days ago, probably near 70* today. my sinuses don't know what to do with all the pollen switching back and forth!

if this was towed recently, cold ambient temps might also have been helpful?

I think a big 'bang for buck' mod that also peronalizes a car is rims - preferably lighter weight than stock but regardless. It isn't cheap, but if you use one of the tools at Discount Tire, or maybe it's Tirerack's website, you can select your car, in its color, then virtually 'try on' rims. You could also put snow tires on your original rims for wintertime. (I'm guessing Mass gets plenty of snow) and, run stickier tires, better performance for 'spirited' driving/cornering. Cops almost ignore how fast you turn - going fast in a straight line gets you in trouble. After that, find a HDPE class, or try to get involved in local SCCA and try an autoX course. The 2 HDPE's I did were awesome, ran thru 3/4 tank of gas in a day.

double check diff fluid level afterwards.

maybe use a white grease pencil or some liquid paper and make a mark across the crank pulley. maybe it is delaminating?

I once had Toyota that started smelling of burnt rubber - just before the timing belt broke.

more details on car? My WRX feels like the torque is a sharp peak so, it comes on strong but below the peak torque is more 'normal' - makes it feel very different and the contrast is noticeable. But, there can be issues with a car where a timing belt is slipped 1 tooth, or maybe some other issue, that could make it feel much different on the road vs idle/lower rpms.

yeah, is the heat being misdirected to the windshield?

if the engine temp sensor were bad, it might signal the ECU to continue 'choking' the engine as if it were cold. I'd expect poor running and maybe a fuel smell in the exhaust...? the diaphragm in the fuel pressure regulator can leak, look in the vacuum line for fuel.

it just is what it is. I will say, I have driven it on occasion like I stole it and, while it isn't ALL of them, those 5 spds have a poor reputation. Owned since new, no power mods, SPT pink springs and stromung axleback went on after a 1000 miles or so. it's close to needing a clutch I'm sure. I will probably farm that out and whoever does it I will also pay for 2-3 other things. Be due for it's second TB service, it'll get a waterpump this time. Block-off plates for the air-cut valves (forgot to mention I had to kill 14 codes for those things), service/remove the banjo bolt filters, might have a conversation about a tune, and maybe killer B oil pick-up., get a price for a TGV delete, I dunno, I don't have the money or really the inclination to rice it out or get nuts with it, but the torque is very 'peak-y' and maybe a tune could smooth that out a little? but I'm with everyone else, VERY risky buying one used.

yeah, I know mine is a ticking time bomb, and it is under 80K miles. already had a $2k transmission repair and replaced the radiator. god I love driving that thing.

you didn't specifically mention but, the calipers are free to slide on their pins?

I learn so much from GD.

clear the ECU, try to start, scan for codes. How old are the plugs? are they NGK appropriate for the car? inspect the cyl4 plug for sure. Look for signs of oil in the plug's tube/on the boot/plug. you could swap cyl 4 coil for cyl 2 to test coil, etc. If you need a mechanic, in a new thread, ask for recommendation of a soob-friendly shop near your city.

on some, it's under the shift trim like this;

more info on car please. kinda seems like it may have gone into 'limp' mode. maybe you've had a valve sticking or ???? proceed carefully and check everything including timing.

can't attest to accuracy, but there's info for different years/models here; https://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/

alt belt may be slipping, or, much less likely, 2-crank pulley is delaminated.

if it's a 4 cylinder, you may want to service the timing belt before starting it.

brief search shows that code can be caused by spending too long between ON and START ? seems weird, but maybe something related to ECU 'sensitivity'/race conditions. could explain why a poor ground or harness connection somewhere might cause it?

good time to inspect any brake lines that might run above the tank.