1 Lucky Texan

you might consider posting at subaruoutback.org also.

I occasionally have to edit one to say "nevermind" , you can try that.

thanx, I may need to use this soon.

you do have options, used alt from wrecking yard or LKQ or car-part,com . DB Electric or Maniac have alts and maybe kits for rebuilding. At one time, Subaru offered some fairly inexpensive alternators for certain older year models....someone else will recall details on that.

Jonathan, any practical way to get something into the tank thru the pump's hole to knock the dent mostly back out without dropping it? I donno, a long wrecking bar or even some wood or aluminum you could hammer on the end of?

yep, waste spark. if a coil is bad, it affects cylinders in these specific pair-combinations; either 1&2 OR 3&4 . does the car start just as quickly after sitting overnight (or for several hours) as when starting after just a few minutes? Wondering if that one injector is 'leaking-down' .

I think it's like generaldisorder said, the engines are already maxed-out. I think partly because they have to be; AWD presents about 20% frictional loss compared to 13% for 2WD. Doesn't mean the engines are slouches because there's no room to get much more from them, heck, they get used in homebuilt aircraft. They general design of them IS getting a little old though. And other makes of cars often get engine swaps to get more power. Some folks have found wrecked WRXes or other turbo models and swapped-in the engine or engine and drive train. Or done H6 swaps.

You cam make your car more fun to throw around the corners. You might free-up a pony or 2 stripping weight from the car. But there's nothing more to be had from the engine you have.

I found this; https://mechanics.stackexchange.com/questions/38966/air-trapped-inside-threaded-blind-hole-vs-hole-integrity

Maybe the sealant out-gasses when it cures?.....anyway, interesting observation. (I thought those bolts got oil on them, not sealant???)

depending of course on 'if/how quickly' a seal is formed by the threads, there could be pressurized air at the bottom of any 'blind' hole right?

decades ago, I had a friend at work take a look at a malfunctioned VHS player I had. Figured it need a drive belt or something.....he said he forced an eject routine and about half a piece of buttered toast came out. yeah, kids. I've also heard, in very old houses with those old-style locks on the doors, old coins are often found inside. yeah, kids

No experience really. But in the past, I had done some reverse look-ups and saw where our soobs share some filters with quite a few hondas. And, I think I also found where my 2 cars can interchange.

If Mahle makes them, theyd be ok. Just istn't a critical item.

coolant low in radiator or overflow?

IACV hose knocked loose at the intake?

considering we didn't do too badly without them for 90+ years, I'd either get the cheapest, fab one from some kinda filter material (did that a coupla times back when there weren't aftermarket choices) or do without. If you suffer excessively from mold, pollen or other allergens, you may of course need to shop carefully.

gah, missed that.

check separator plate on rear of engine for leakage - metal plate likely OK. IF it's plastic, replace with metal. (I think 96 would be metal - guys???)

short answer, no, not from what I've read.

some crank sensors from the 90s will crap-out when hot...

TRy shifting into neutral before stopping. Maybe TC lock-up not releasing?

Toyo Proxes have a good reputation going way back - usually used on cars for 'spirited' driving. My bet is any other offering from them will be at least OK.

maybe drive to a Discount Tire, they may be able touse a gadget and 'interrogate' the system, diagnose the issue and/or re-marry transponders, etc.

around that time, aren't there some MAFs that get intermittent due to cracked solder joints or ????