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I have a couple questions about my 1992 Subaru loyale I just put a alternator on it yesterday drove it around for like 5 minutes and notices the smell of burning plastic turns out the alternator was really hot along with the wire closest to the strut tower in the box right next to the strut tower I am confused and not sure how to approach this. If anyone has any help please let me know!
EA82 Idle Issue (Cyclic Idle)
jj421 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...I am so tired of dealing with my car's idle problem. If I can get it fixed once and for all, I'll be the happiest man alive. Now my car has developed a new idle issue. I still have my other idle issue, where I have to rev it to keep it from stalling. However, this issue has started appearing more and more often over the past few weeks. Basically what happens is the idle goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, goes up, cuts out, etc. Much like "cyclic idles" that you see on tuned cars. It does then when it's supposed to be idling (obviously). If it's idling and the car is moving (like if I'm coasting in neutral to a stop sign), it'll do this cyclic idle. However, once I come to a stop, the idle will return to normal. Very recently, it is now doing it all the time though. Here's a video of what's happening: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6xBu3RJIZrk&feature=youtu.be It's like it's trying to rev up to a kinda high idle, but then it get cut off. I don't really know how to explain it. The only CEL code I have is for "air control valve or circuit". I have replaced and cleaned the IACV twice now using junkyard units. Whatever I've done has made absolutely no difference. I've thought about replacing the wiring harness that goes to the IACV, but my testing says I might not need to. I've got power going to the IACV plug and resistances are within tolerances. The only thing I haven't tested is the ECU. Again, my previous idle issue is still there. It kinda feels like if there's water in the intake or something, since I've driven into deep mud before. However, I have sprayed every little and big vacuum hose in the engine bay with carb cleaner and haven't noticed any leaks. Sprayed the intake manifold gaskets, TBI, intake, PCV, and I didn't notice anything. My car has an exhaust leak and a misfire when idling, although it drives fine. Also, I have replaced my CTS twice. Currently have a brand new one in there, and it reads correct resistance at all temperatures. 1990 Subaru Loyale, EA82 N/A So, I'd like some help with this. I'm hoping that this new issue could be a possible fix for my other idle issue. My other idle issue seems to be OAT related: when it's warm outside, it'll idle fine. When it's cold outside, it won't want to idle and I have to rev it to keep it from dying. Has nothing to do with engine temperature; just outside air temperature. Any ideas? I can't stand this idle issue. My main issue is just plain dangerous, and this cyclic idle is annoying (and embarrassing, really).
About two weeks ago my WRX started stalling the engine when I would push in the clutch and shift to neutral as I came to a stop. It seems like as the engine comes up to temperature, it looses its ability to keep the engine at idle. Eventually I have to hold the throttle cracked open at idle to keep it running. If I coast, in gear, up to a stop and disengage the clutch just as engine RPM reaches hot-idle, I can keep it running, no problem. But if I come to a stop quickly and push in the clutch, the engine will immediately stall. There is NO high idle, only a gradual reduction of idle speed as the engine warms up. I haven't done much fiddling lately, besides replacing the MAF and front O2 sensors. I'm also not getting ANY OBD fault codes. Doing some research pointed to the IACV being gummed up. So I cleaned it, per the instructions on NASIOC. My drive to work involves about two miles of surface streets until I get to the freeway onramp, then about 8 miles of highway. There are three stop signs between my house and the freeway and about as many between the freeway offramp and my work. The car started pretty normal the next morning, but each time I stopped at a stop sign the idle would get lower and lower until the engine stalled as I pulled up to the stoplight at the onramp. Same story after driving on the highway, when I pulled up to a stop after exiting, the engine stalled. Some further reading of the IACV-cleaning post on NASIOC revealed that disassembly of the IACV could yield better cleaning results, but often the cleaned valve would fail within the next few months or years. I decided to just bite the bullet and replace the IACV with a new one. Same story. The engine started fine, but with each stop sign between my house and the freeway onramp, the engine would idle lower and lower until it stalled at the onramp. After the IACV, most folks suggest checking for vacuum leaks. I haven't done this yet, but I'm very doubtful that there are any. I haven't taken anything apart recently, save the new sensors, and the car was running perfectly normally up until two weeks ago. I plan to do some data logging tomorrow on my way to and from work, and will post the results here. So, anyone have any ideas? Fuel pump? Fuel pump relay? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
She says twice just recently (today) the key was very hot when she removed it from the ignition. It was 105+ today but, a/c has been working and she didn't complain of any other symptoms. anyone experience this? (search won't let me use 3 letter words - ugh)
Hello, Is this a common problem with a common fix? Does anyone know the reason for this? The 15 amp fuse that keeps blowing out is for ECC, Room, Stop. Stop is the brakes, Room is the interior, so what is ECC? I thought to look at the brake pedal switch, but dont know where it is.