So this is a problem I've run into multiple times for years. Has to be a way to get them out.

 

Need to remove the side view mirrors and the screws are insanely tight.

 

Looking for a non-drilling method, that I can do. Has to be a better way?

First try smacking them as hard as you dare with a punch.

 

There are also "impact screwdrivers" that you smack with a hammer - it's like an impact gun for screws.

 

I have a battery operated impact - one made by Rigid - 18v, 120 Ft/lbs, and it's got an arbor like a screw gun - I normally run 1/4" or 3/8" socket adaptors but if I have screws to take it I just swap it with a regular driver bit. This is a GREAT method and rarely fails.

 

The last option is a *propely* fitting screwdriver (Snap-On, Mac, etc) and some valve grinding compound on the tip to keep it from slipping.

 

GD

There are also "impact screwdrivers" that you smack with a hammer - it's like an impact gun for screws.

 

I was into 70's japanese bikes in my post teen years and those things were held together with phillips head fasteners. I really want to track down the sadistic japanese engineer that thought using phillips would be a good idea and kick him in the nuts.

 

anyway, it did make me the cold chisel expert I am today, then I found the impact screwdrivers that you hit with a hammer like GD mentioned. Those things are great because you can somewhat control the force you exert on the fastener. The battery impact ones I used have no torque control and tend to snap heads off if you're not careful, go ahead ask me how I know

My impact has a variable speed trigger like a drill motor so you can be pretty gentle with it. They may not all have that option though. I got the set with drill, impact, flashlight, radio, and two batts for $179 on sale at home cheapo.

 

GD

I have had this exact problem before. I used a screw driver with the best fitting philips bit I could find, then attached vice grips to the screw driver shaft. I pushed in on the screw driver as hard as I could, then used the vice grips to rotate the screw driver blade. It worked.

 

Why weren't bolts used to secure the door mirrors at the factory? Philips heads were a bad idea!

I work as an aircraft mechanic and spend days pulling hundreds of over torqued phillips screws. I use a long 1/4" wrench slipped over the phillips tip on my racheting screw driver. I also use a speeder handle, with a hockey puck size aluminum disk stuck on the end of the top handle. Then you can lean into the screw with your chest and really put some torque on it.

 

Also i use "valve grinding compound" on the tip of my screw driver......just dip it in the tub of VGC and drive it into the screw......it fills in the gaps and really bites "literally" into the screw......use it and you barely ever strip a screw.

14.4v Snap-On impact with a phillips bit. Push on it real hard, be gentle to start, then let 'er rip.

Get a proper screwdriver (with a hex fitting on the shaft) to fit the head, or the proper bit. Press down on the screwdriver while torquing the scredriver with a wrench. The longer the shaft of the scredriver the better. Also with one person applying torque to the screwdriver (with the wrench) and holding the handle, hit the head of the screwdriver with a hammer.

 

This is where a good screwdriver is important.

 

 

nipper

Man all these suggestions are great, "sadistic japanese engineer that thought using phillips would be a good idea and kick him in the nuts". Not having an impact I have used a cordless drill with the torque setting medium high, letting it ratchet on the screw for awhile, sometimes works somtime not....................G

there is no substitute for a GOOD handheld impact driver set. as mentioned, they are invaluable on older japanese bikes (and i concur with the kicking statement!! )

 

Using a power version i am sure is nice and all, BUT - you have a much larger amount of control with the good old fashioned handheld, hammer driven ones - from a light tap with a standard claw hammer, to a good solid smack with a mini sledge...

 

just my .02 cents worth...

from a light tap with a standard claw hammer, to a good solid smack with a mini sledge...

 

 

Is that for the screw or the engineer?

 

i still think we kill the MF who invented shrinkwrap packaging first. May he die the death of 1000 papercuts.

 

i still think we kill the MF who invented shrinkwrap packaging first. May he die the death of 1000 papercuts.

 

Agreed, I say we give him a taste of his own medicine

Not having an impact I have used a cordless drill with the torque setting medium high, letting it ratchet on the screw for awhile, sometimes works somtime not....................G

 

sometimes the right tool (in this case) is more than worth the extra effort wasted trying to be cheap.

where does one buy one of these impact screw drivers. I think i asked at the auto parts store a year or so ago and they didn't carry them. lowe's or something? i'm not sure whta they're called to look them up?

Auto parts stores usually carry the cheapo ones. Lowes might have it, but I doubt it. This is the one I have from Mcmaster, it's worth spending a bit more as the cheap ones are, well cheap.

 

Part number 6967A12 from Mcmaster.com

Sears has them - like 20 bucks - often on sale.

 

They have replaced mine 3 times in the last few years.

 

I use it on Suby's for baffle plate screws and often side mirror removal. Always a nice meaty handle when the screw is broken loose.

ANTI SEEZE the bolts b4 you put them back on and im sure youll never have a problem getting them off again. im sure years of weather and corrosion on them is what makes them so tight in the first place.

*sniff sniff*

 

wow i am so proud of you guys

 

*sniff*

 

no one has mentioned a torch or vicegrips

 

*sniff sniff*

 

wow i am so proud of you guys

 

*sniff*

 

no one has mentioned a torch or vicegrips

 

 

hehehehehe, a time and place Nipper, a time and place

where does one buy one of these impact screw drivers. I think i asked at the auto parts store a year or so ago and they didn't carry them. lowe's or something? i'm not sure whta they're called to look them up?

 

any place that sells tools in general should have them - they are called, "impact drivers" - usually have several bits in the kit - 2-3 phillips bits, a couple flat blades, and a few other odd bits.

 

heck in a pinch the Harbor Freight cheepie works...

Is that for the screw or the engineer?

 

i still think we kill the MF who invented shrinkwrap packaging first. May he die the death of 1000 papercuts.

 

 

Whichever you prefer, nipper!

 

Oo-Oo - yeah, what he said about the shrinkwrap packageing!! and lets not forget the danged hard plastic packageing that practically takes an impact hammer to get into!!

This may only be true with small carburetor screws, but japanese phillips heads are rumored to be 'different', and that an actual j-spec screwdriver makes a big difference.

 

 

Dave

This may only be true with small carburetor screws, but japanese phillips heads are rumored to be 'different', and that an actual j-spec screwdriver makes a big difference.

 

 

Dave

 

if thats true thats just torture

http://www.centralhobbies.com/tools/jis.html

 

 

Probably only needed for small screws (like on a carb)

 

also:

http://www.amessupply.com/products1.cfm?aid=1&cid=D&sid=DE&fid=1404070

 

Dave