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This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here,

which have more Background info of my Former White, Wagon.


My Dad Purchased This Subaru Wagon New from a Dealer in Hollywood, CA
(USA) in 1985 and the Subie Came Runnin' new, from there to my Country, Honduras, at the caribbean central america... I Can't imagine any Better Way to Break New an Engine!   smiley.gif

This Subaru wagon is a GL and came with white paint, EA82 carburated engine and 5 speed manual transmission.

Since child, I learned Automotive Mechanics with my Father, working in a 1969 Mercury coupé, a diesel Truck and this Subaru; 
With time I did all the maintenance on our cars and eventually this Subaru became mine; since then I started to modify it  ... grin.gif ...  The Subaru ran Good for the First five Years, but then the Smog Stuff (Cathalytics, etcgot poisoned with the Leaded Gasoline (Here became available unleaded gas just until 1994) so we Removed both Cathalytic converters, the Carbon Canister, solenoids, hoses and everything related, even the EGR...


This is a very old photo which I scanned:





After hurricane mitch hitted and devastated our country in 1998 ( if you want to read statistics and see photos, click ~► Here ) a friend of my dad that owned a similar Wagon with a blown engine, sold it to my Dad as parts car; eventually we obtained the engine off from a wrecked Subaru Alcyone XT6 (ER27) and we managed to fit it on the former parts car, painted it on yellow and that was how we started the Project "Loyale 2.7 Turboand thus explains my Screen Name.

That 2.7 Wagon lasted ten years, I had the Two Subarus, the White EA82 and the Yellow ER27 during that time. In the following photo, you can see them together:





Despite that there were no place on engine's bay to put a normal Radiator on the 2.7 and it was running hot with a tiny pair of lateral radiators and electric fans, (You can read the complete details of such engine swap, ~► Here)  the car worked, until it was wrecked in a huge frontal car crash, as you can read the details, ~► Here.

Since I Lost my Dark yellow 2.7 wagon, I took some parts from it to Transform my Good Ol' White Weberized EA82 Subie onto a Much Better Machine, with the Best parts from the Two, and made many, many modifications to it.






I still wanted to drive a Yellow Wagon, so I Choosed to paint my White Wagon in Yellow too, but with some Style Changes:

I Used Brighter Yellow Paint for the Body and Deep Black Paint for Stripes!
"Shaved" the Subie's Body.  (Paint thread ~► Here)
Lifted it for medium duty offroading!  :D
 Some minor Body Design Changes,
and I made many, Modifications, Retrofittings & Swaps.
Here in my Country, ALL the Taxis are White, and 85% are Wagons! ... :mad: ... So, My white wagon was Looking like a Taxi ... :banghead: ... also I Really Love How those wagons Looks in YellowThat was my Motivation to Change its Colour. 
Part of the Minor body Design Changes are, a sheetmetal Hood Scoop, which I name: the "InterFooler" ... :lol: ... the Original Idea was to Let the engine to Scream out Loudly thru the Weber Carb's throat during deep acceleration! ... :P ... Also I changed the Lug pattern redrilling the hubs to use Different Rims, and many, many more Modifications, which will be explained in this thread.

After all that, my former white Weberized Wagon has been Renamed as:





Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Thank you GD for your Kind Words, which are Highly appreciated.


I reinforced the Front Bumper in the "BumbleBeast"


as I did it previously on my 2.7 ...




The Detailed Writeup on the subject is ~► Here.




Also I made a Custom Grill that Matches the Design of the Hood Scoop opening, to do the Hood Scoop, I used New Sheet Metal, cutted it to Form the Shape I Wanted and I Welded it to the Subie's Hood... the Original Idea was to Let the Weber Carb to Scream out Loudly the Old-School Boxer Rumble thru that Hood Scoop, using it as a Megaphone ... :D ... I Named it, the "InterFooler" :burnout:


I'm Glad that you Liked 'em, I'll post details about the Grill, soon.


Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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All the Retrofittings, Swaps, Adaptions, etc... that I've done to my "BumbleBeast" Subaru, will be Described in individual Writeups for easy Understanding.



So, Each Writeup will be Listed in This Thread;




And this Thread will be as an "Index" to my Main Writeups.



Also, each writeup have its own Discussion Thread, so please, feel free to ask questions on each Discussion Thread, regarding each subject, those will be pointed at each Writeup's end. I Hope that this Build Thread will Be Useful for all you :D


Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Ideas on Swapping a Weber Carburetor on a Subaru EA82 Engine






In this Writeup:


 Solving problems untold by the Manuals.


 Weber 32/36 Jetting for the EA82 to be used between Sea Level and ~ 6500 feet (2000 Mts.) Altitude.


 Proper PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) Hoses Setup and installing an (optional) Oil Catch Can.


 A much better Adapter Plate than the standard one.


 Intake manifold modifications (optional).


 ...and Much More!    ;) Pay attention to the "Important Notes



The Complete Writeup is ~► Here.


...and the Discussion Thread on the Weber Swap Subject, is ~► Here.


Feel free to ask questions or commenting about that, there.


Kind Regards.

► Edited to add the Discussion thread's Link.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Seeking Better illumination for my many nocturnal voyages, I retrofitted a special 55W, Dual Beam H.I.D. HeadLights!!! :)

But First, let me Explain Something: I've Changed the Corner Lights Too, with White Led Lights, in order to Match the H.I.D. Beam Colour!  ... ;) ... I Have Used many Kinds of One-Contact Bulbs There, This is a Brief Idea of the One-Contact Bulb's Evolution:



So, I Used All of Them in the corner lights, except the Big Headed one... (it Does Not Fit on the Subie's Lamps) ...and the One Contact Halogen. Those are just for Reverse Lights Only, due to Their Workin' Temperature ... They can Melt the Plastic Lenses in Long Time of Use. The Dynamo one is for Bicicles using a Dynamo Generator, it is 12 Volts but Twice the Output of a Regular Bulb... but They Does not last too Long on a Car, due to the Higher Amperage Levels.

So my Subie Have the Newer one, the Multiple Leds 5000K Bulbs! :brow:




Now, here you can See How the H.I.D. Kit Came Packaged by Mail:
This is How it Looks, Just Out of the Box! :D

Then I installed the Passenger's side Ballast,


just Behind the HeadLamp, on the inner side of the Fender:


But to place the other Ballast on the Driver's side wasn't easy; I had to remove the Coolant Overflow tank, remove the metallic base for it that the inner fender had, then I noticed that I could place only one of the needed two screws for the Ballast; so, what I did to solve that, was to open a large hole on the side where I can't place a screw, and raise one of said hole's sides.


Here's a photo, after all that was done, and the Surfaces were repainted:
What I did, was to  "Slide"  the base for the screw,


inside the raised side of the opened hole:
Finally I secured the Ballast in Place, using the other side's screw:
Then I placed their Control Unit, just behind the ignition coil, on the Strut Tower:


Finally, I obtained a Relay & Fuse Box from an early 1990's decade Toyota Corolla, which I modified in order to let it have inside only what I needed, such like an Standard Bosch Relay, and certain Fuses; also I obtained one of the rear Aluminium Mud Flaps from a 1998 4 Runner, cut a small part from it and bent it in a 90º angle, in order to make a metallic mount for said Relay & Fuse Box, which allows me to install it, over the Driver's side Ballast, see:


Here, you can see how far is it from the Ballast, and how close is it from the Battery,
Perfect Placementthumbsup.gif
Here's a photo of said Box internals:


This Box allows me to have a Cleaner engine bay,


Safer setup for everything, and easiness for washing  ;) 


Now, the Pics you're Waitin' for: illumination! ...  :P ... see the Low Beams:


And this is High Beams:
A Picture Worth 1,001 Words! ...



I Really Believe that now I Have Safer Night Vision in my Subie;


I Do Many Night time Travels, so Security is Priority, Specially when you have Babys :)


Feel Free to ask any questions regarding the H.I.D. Dual Beam Lights,


in its own discussion threadWhich is located Here:


~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/86790-hid-lights-on-loyale-yes-or-not-why/


Kind Regards! :burnout:

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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I changed all the Old, worn roundie Relays that were rated at 22 Amps maximum, with Newer Bosch Standard Relays rated at 40 Amps; and I uploaded a Complete Writeup on the Subject that features: Easy understanding the Relays and easy Wiring Ideas.


The Writeup is plenty of Photos and step by Step procedures; so you will know where are located the main Relays, What do they power and how to retrofit newer, more capable ones.






Also, you'll know how to wire Extra Relays for Halogens, Horns, etc...


I made Photo Diagrams for easy understanding.









Also I changed certain portions of the Wiring, that had worn plugs:




The Complete Writeup is, ~► Here.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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The Headache of the Belts on the Subaru EA engines.
(No, I'm not writing about Timing Belts, just Regular Belts)

The EA82 Engined vehicles, came more often with common "V" Belts, but the XT lineup came with Serpentine Belts.

Those that came with "V" Belts, either featured Air Conditioner or Not; and those which featured Air Conditioner, came either, with the Factory Setup that is Known as the "inboard" Compressor, or with the Dealer installed Setup, which is known as the "outboard" Compressor.
  • Inboard refers to those setups that features the Alternator next to the Battery, and the Compressor is Next to it, towards the center of the Engine.
  • Outboard refers to those setups that features the Compressor next to the Battery, and the alternator is next to it, towards the center of the Engine.

In both cases, the Power Steering Pump, on those models which has that Feature, goes in the center of the engine.

In the case of the "V" belts, Not only their Long measurement does matter; but also their Wide measurement; The "V" belts are known with a Letter and then a Number; the Letter means the Wider, Standard or Narrower of their wide measurement; and the Number is their long size measurement, as far as I know...


The nomenclature for refering to "V" Belts goes as follows:


Wider Belts starts with the letter "B" and usually are used by Trucks;
    Examples: B-40, B-28, etc...

Standard Belts starts with the letter "A" and are used in Sedans and Light Trucks.
    Examples: A-39, A-52, etc...

Narrower Belts starts with the letter "F" and are used mainly in small vehicles.
    Examples: F-15, F-35, etc...


Despite that such nomenclature is not much used nowadays, I'll use it here for easy reference for old-schoolers like me; along the newer style part numbers.
What I noticed, is that "Standard" or "A" Belts, does not reach to completely Sit on the Pulleys of these Subaru engines, thus means that the belts works more on their sidewalls; which makes that sometimes, when you engage the Air Conditioner, the Compressor's pulley will make a terrible "Screech" noise for a while...
But I solved that issue Long years ago, by switching my Subaru "BumbleBeast" from the Standard "A" Belts, to the Narrower "F" Belts, whose smaller wide size, lets them to completely sit on the Pulleys.
Long time ago, I shared here the Numbers of the two narrower Belts that I used, my Subie is from the EA82 models that featured Factory
(Hitachi) inboard air conditioner, and also power steering pump; so these are the Belts that I used:



So, for the "Inboard" A/C, I Use This: F-37


Whose part number is: 11A0995

And for the Alternator Belt, I Use This: 


Whose part number Number is: 11A1120.

I Suggest Gates or GoodYear's "GatorBack" Brands.


Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Thank you very much for your kind words, guys!


I Really appreciate your nice comments. :)



Some years ago, the Hill Holder's Check Valve, located under the Master Cylinder developed a Leak, and I couldn't find the proper replacement, nor a rebuild kit here in Honduras.


So, my Lazy solution was to simply detach the Hill Holder's cable, which is the one that comes from the Clutch Fork to said Check Valve, and it has Not leaked a single drop since then.


In case your Subie has such feature, you must be Aware that if you unhook the Cable, the Return Spring for the Clutch Fork is Built in the Check Valve's Mechanism; so you Shall place a Return Spring at the Clutch Fork, to avoid premature Wear from the Clutch.


There is a Placement for that Return Spring there, because not all EA82's featured Hill Holder, so you can go to your Nearest Subaru Dealer, and obtain the exact Spring for the application, which is Cheap.



To place the Return Spring at the Clutch Fork...





...Requires that you first, remove the Bracket for the Hill Holder's Cable





Now I am Looking for a "T" to Erase the Hill Holder's Check Valve, ~► Here


Feel free to comment regarding the Hill Holder, at that Discussion Thread.


Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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  • 1 month later...

On a Front Wheel Drive -2WD- EA82 Subaru, you'll notice that the Rear Drum / Disc is held in place by a simple Nut which is prevented from spin freely by a Locking twistable Washer that Locks everything; Sometimes the worn Washer Breaks / Fails \ Loosens the Nut while the Car is in Motion, with all the Dangers it means...


I Decided to get rid of the Washer Locking System, for a More Safer Option: I installed a Safer "Castle" Nut instead of the regular Nut; to do so, I Drilled a Transversal Hole to the Spindle, where the castle nut settled, to Cross both the Castle Nut and the Base with a twistable Nail.







Such modification works identical with Drum or Disc brakes' setups. By the way, you can see how I redrilled the Lug Pattern on the Hubs of my "BumbleBeast"from 4X140 to 4X114.3 ... th_thi-m_so_happy.gif... I did that since year 1996 in order to let my Subaru use more "Standard" Rims, it has been working Flawlessly since then; you know how hard is to find a good set of Rims in the original Subaru's 4X140 lug pattern, other than 13" ... only Peugeot & Citröen rims are rare-to-find alternatives; so I redrilled the Hubs and got rid of that problem, forever... 







The Complete Writeup with more details & Photos is:


~► Here


Kind Regards. 



► Edited to fix the Web Link, due to the New USMB's system.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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"How to Rebuild Rusted Sheet Metal / Paint Preparation Procedures"


When I Painted my BumbleBeast ... (that was Pearl White) ... in Yellow & Black, I used the same procedures I did in my other light yellow Wagon (The Wrecked 2.7) Except that the BumbleBeast only had Minor Rust spots, I don't needed to Rebuild rusted sheetmetal like is explained in the Detailed Writeup I posted.




The Complete Writeup, plenty of Photos & Details, is


~► Here.


Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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The Timing Belts on my "BumbleBeast" runs Coverless, since year 2009




I changed the Timing Belts with brand new, Subaru ones, in year 2009, as you can read further ~► Hereand I Left the Covers Off. I run them Coverless since then; You can read further information and see Photos, ~► Here.


There, you can reach useful information about how to properly set the Timingwithout having the marks that were on the back covers...


Kind Regards.


Edit: updated information regarding this subject, 

here: ~► https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122276-the-bumble-beast/page/7/#elControls_1442106


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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My BumbleBeast is Lifted! 


The SJR Lift kit (For the Front only) came to Honduras


The Rear was already lifted using my own Ideas, look above at Post Nº 9









Much more ideas and details, including a Special Rust-proof chemical Treatment,


another Subaru model's Steering Shaft, that is a Direct fit without Modification


for lifted EA82's, among many photos, can be found, ~► Here.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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Inmediately after the Lift Kit install finished, I went to Test Drive


the Lifted  "BumbleBeast"  to the Agua Blanca (White Water) Mountain:







My "BumbleBeast" next to my Friend's Hyundai Galloper II Touring Wagon,


Which is a Huge, nine seater, Dual Range 4X4 Turbo Diesel offroader.


Guess which one has more Ground Clearance? ... :D ...





There's a Nice Bell, shaped like a Heart, at the Mountain's top Gazebo:





I Made a Short Video while Driving, Here you can see it:

Please, Let me Know what do you Think about it! :burnout:

You can see much more Photos from that Trip, Here: ~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87725-an-open-request-to-loyale-27-turbo/page-5?do=findComment&comment=1093091


Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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  • 5 months later...

Things you Should Know, before attempting to Lift your Subie:



You must be Aware that there are some things that changes and / or might require certain amount of Modifications to work Properly, once you get your third gen Subaru Leone (EA82) Lifted, and those are usually untold on the Forums; the majority of things that needs to be modified, are in the FRONT of the Subie, so here I'll address that Area.
For a Mixed style usage, like I do on my "
BumbleBeast" being my Daily Driver on week days (60%) and Weekend Offroader Warrior (40%) the best lift is the one achieved by Lifting the Body two inches, and increasing the overall diameter of the Wheels another two inches; so it gains a total of 4" lift, but usually such lift is known as the 2" Lift.


Going Beyond a 2" body lift means to loose stability and the Rear tires will get abnormally closer to the Body in front of them, also the front tires will get closer to the body in the rear of them, which usually requires modifying the body structure, and I don't like that idea, unless you'll not use the Subaru as Daily Driver anymore, only as offroader.


Lifting two inches the Body, requires 2" strut top blocks, but despite that many USMB members doesn't drop the engine's Crossmember, in order to gain more Ground Clearance, to Drop it is Really Needed, unless you don't care of running your Subie with an increased amount of stress angle on the Axles, Steering & suspension parts, which usually means to wear axles ~ 10X faster, and having steering issues, alignment issues, and driveability issues.
I strongly suggest to Drop the Engine's Crossmember " if you're using 2" strut top Blocks, so you will remove the added Stress from the Suspension and Steering parts, while keeping the axles in a much closer angle to the Factory specs; this will keep the overall 
Geometry closer to stock specs; so you'll loose Ground Clearance, but You'll gain to maintain the Reliability and Maneuverability that the car had, prior to the Lift.
Also, you'll need to drop the Rear Differential, to keep the Rear axles in a closer to Stock angle.

What is Untold, is that if you Drop the Engine's Crossmember, five things will Happen:

1) In those EA82's with cooling fans driven by the Waterpump pulley, you must remove the surrounding Frame for the Fan, which is attached to the Radiator; otherwise the Fan's blades will hit it, damaging the Fan and Waterpump.

2) You must lengthen the Steering Shaft, I solved that problem by using one that is already lengthened from Factory, it came from a 1992 Legacy and was two inches longer than the EA82 one, but having same spline count and measurements.


3) The Shifter's Linkage will also be working on a stressed angle, and since it is attached to the Body with a piece of metal that has a Vibration's dampening Rubber cube, usually that rubber cube breaks...


...and the Shifter Drops...
I solved that, by Welding a Metal Cube instead:

4) The whole drivetrain goes Backwards and inch (also that stressed the Rubber cube), so, the Shifter gets one inch to the Back, and even the Muffler's tip will get one inch farther from the rear Bumper.

Here you can see how it moved an inch, this plate is not Centered anymore:

It is Solved by Modifying the above pictured plate, like this:
and also by Bending this part that I showed above, from each side, see:



But then, the Cover for the Center console, where the squared (outer) Rubber boot goes covering the shifting stick, up to the shifter knob, will feel like is not centered anymore, but still will work; however I modified such center console's cover; but since it is Not really necessary, I'll address that subject, in the Next post.


5) The jack to lift the vehicle will no longer serve anymore, barely lifting the tire from the paved roads due to the body lift, and even worse in some terrains, such like those unpaved roads where you go offroading; the original Jack can't free the tires, not even at the its maximum stretching; so you will need to carry a wooden block to sit the Jack, which is Dangerous, or Weld to the Jack a metal spacer on its base; or even better: get another, higher Jack.

That last thing is what I did: I got a Jack out from a Nissan Frontier, which works perfectly in the Subie and fits in the compartment for the jack in the trunk of my Subaru,
This one:


After all these Modifications are done, the Lifted car really Feels Natural, and Awesome. thumbsup.gif
Please check this thread for Further information, more Detailed photos and explanations, also feel free to ask Questions regarding the Lift, on that mere thread.
~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/113907-lookin-for-a-front-lil-lift/page-2
Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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As I Already wrote:


Loyale 2.7 Turbo said:

Now I'm Workin' on Certain Wooden parts to Substitute the Cracked Plastic ones... 

Long ago, I Made this one to Substitute the Cracked plastic cover for the Center Console:





I shortened the Shifter in year 1997, to avoid hitting the Stereo:



However, with the two inches body Lift I installed and the one inch backward movement of the drivetrain (as I explained in the previous post above) it wasn't centered anymore; so I was thinking about simply doing another wooden one with the new measurements, instead of that; but suddenly I came across, in a local hardware store, of a nice metal sheet that measured 0.63" X 2' X 4' styled as a Diamond Plate, made of aluminium with polished chrome finish, and the price was right; so I obtained that and decided to do a new cover for the Center console with that, because the shifter was already short and the wood was too thick for the application.


Here you can see the older Wooden Cover I made (the marks shows how uncentered it ended after the Lift); placed next to the Newer one I made out from that Diamond Plate:




This newer one is Straight but is wider at the upper part, than the lower part, to compensate the different widths found on the Center console; Also, I made the opening a little Smaller, but Centered. Here you can see how it fits like a Glove to the Center console's base:




Also here's a photo of it installed:



A closer view:


Update: I changed the look, by installing a local made leather boot, see:






Let me know what do you think about all this ... :) ... Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
update a photo of the newer boot style
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