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What's wrong with Fram oil filters??


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That's what most large fleets, and even owner-operator truckers do. It's also what we do in the Army (AOAP=Army Oil Analysis Program). We don't change the oil unless the testing says so (or testing becomes unavailible due to circumstances) - occasionally that means they want a change, and then a retest after a specific operating condition. Usually this signifies something was amiss with the results and it occasionally results in the engine being overhauled at the depot level etc. The military uses near 30% of all the oil and fuel products consumed by the united states so it makes good sense to test - plus the military operates their own labs (both mobile and state-side) so the cost is negligible compared to the savings. Especially on a truck that uses dozens of quarts of oil to fill the case.

 

GD

I am retired from my profession, But work part time for the Union Pacific railroad, We have 10's of thousands of vehicles, Most are used alot on dirt roads, Oil change every 5K miles is what the maintenence department goes with. Regardless of vehicle manufacturer. I don't know how they decided this but we do get 300K out of gas engines before selling them off.

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my lifters usually start clacking for about 2 minutes at startup when i need to change the oil. this is usually right at 4500 miles or so...

castrol gtx 10-30 and a wix everytime.

just got back from another 4000 mile trip. 28-35mpg fully loaded with my bike up on the rack as well.

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Yeah i've been useing Moble clean 5000 10W-30 and i'm going to start useing a WIX filter!!

 

 

Will the Fram PH3682 filter be ok till i change the oil????

probably... you have got a fighting chance to say the least. I wouldnt be losing sleep over it if the 12 bucks for an oil change is pinching the pocket right now; just replace it with a better filter and you should be okay. You never know if this is the filter thats gonna fail until it fails; if you want to be reactive change the filter but you have about a 99% chance that you are okay waiting.

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The EA82 engine in my Brat had a Fram Tough Gaurd on it when I got it - engine came from a 92 Loyale wagon with like 150k on it. Lifters tick randomely :-\. Seems to run alright, but I'm going to have to overhaul the lube system if I decide to drive it much. I resealed the pump but it didn't help any. One too many Fram filters perhaps...... my sedan had a pennzoil filter on it when I got it - 237k, and it's never ticked once - even after head gaskets..... I'm with Rob - I wouldn't trust one for any length of time given their reputation for catostrophic consequences.

 

GD

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my sedan had a pennzoil filter on it when I got it - 237k, and it's never ticked once - even after head gaskets..... I'm with Rob - I wouldn't trust one for any length of time given their reputation for catostrophic consequences.

That's interesting. Pennzoils are just rebranded FRAMs.

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Looks like Mike's correct or the study is wrong.

 

 

Pennzoil

 

PZ-1

 

This filter is a Fram Extra Guard (PH8A) in every way, shape, and form.

The only difference is the yellow paint, the Pennzoil logo, and the cheaper price.

 

All the measurements were exactly the same as the Fram Extra Guard PH8A.

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Might have been purolator - I can't honestly recall. Pretty sure it was a "p" name. But come to think on it, it seems like it was white in color. But hell I don't know :rolleyes:. Whatever it was it got replaced with a Napa (WIX) in short order. I do know that the Brat's engine had a Fram with the "hand grip" coating for easy removal.

 

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And after reading that study, I went into the local Checker as I had bought Pennzoil filters before. Pulled out the fram and the pennzoil out of their boxes, the bottoms were the exact same and the cans were shaped the same, minus the rubber grip.

 

That's been a year or so ago, so it may have changed.

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Will the Fram PH3682 filter be ok till i change the oil????

 

I've used the the PH3682 for years. never had a problem. I may switch after reading this thread. But I've put over 100,000 miles on Fram filters in EA82s and never had an oil related problem. Same filter on my wifes Nissan Altima, no problems. I wouldn't lose sleep

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Good thread. Guess I'll bump up my changes to 5k.

 

Anyone know if the base/acidic deal is to the same degree with semi-synth / full synth? I run semi-synth in my Sport Sedan and typically change it after road track outings and such. That for sure falls under extreme conditions, not to mention 7mpg. :eek:

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Good thread. Guess I'll bump up my changes to 5k.

 

Anyone know if the base/acidic deal is to the same degree with semi-synth / full synth?

 

Oil is produced this way on purpose (so yes) because blow-by gasses acidify the oil. The objective is to have the oil stay at a neutral PH for as long as possible. It starts out somewhat Base to accomplish this goal. As the engine uses some oil (all engines will use a little) new can be added to offset the increasing acidity. You also lose some each time you change the filter..... that's why you don't change synth as often - you top off, and do filter changes that restore the additive package, PH balance, and lubricity characteristics while lowering the paticaluates, etc.

 

Remember that about 30% of your oil is additives package - visco modifiers, defoaming agents, detergents, etc.

 

One thing to note is that oil refining has come a long, long way since the 3,000 mile interval was popularized. 10,000 is ubiquitous in the synth community, and I've seen studys pushing 15,000 or 20,000 from it without issue. A big part of this is NOT the oil but the additive package. A good, well refined dino oil can have just as good of an additive package, and in many cases the modern refined oils are nearly as good as the synth stuff - Castrol's synthetic is a good example - it's not synthetic in the classic sense of the word. It uses a special refining process but it is not made from a gasseous state. This caused a huge lawsuit a few years back.

 

GD

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Great news!!! I went to Subaru and bought 2 OEM filters! And put one on and did the oil again, I feel alot better knowing it's a Subaru brand!:banana:

 

Eveyone is right the Fram and Subaru are totley difrant! And before with the Fram the oil used to leak around where the rubber seal is and now with the Subaru brand it doesent!!:banana: SO.... I'm going with Subaru filters from now on! Thanx all. Later, Tom......................:headbang:

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Oil is produced this way on purpose (so yes) because blow-by gasses acidify the oil. The objective is to have the oil stay at a neutral PH for as long as possible. It starts out somewhat Base to accomplish this goal. As the engine uses some oil (all engines will use a little) new can be added to offset the increasing acidity. You also lose some each time you change the filter..... that's why you don't change synth as often - you top off, and do filter changes that restore the additive package, PH balance, and lubricity characteristics while lowering the paticaluates, etc.

 

Remember that about 30% of your oil is additives package - visco modifiers, defoaming agents, detergents, etc.

 

One thing to note is that oil refining has come a long, long way since the 3,000 mile interval was popularized. 10,000 is ubiquitous in the synth community, and I've seen studys pushing 15,000 or 20,000 from it without issue. A big part of this is NOT the oil but the additive package. A good, well refined dino oil can have just as good of an additive package, and in many cases the modern refined oils are nearly as good as the synth stuff - Castrol's synthetic is a good example - it's not synthetic in the classic sense of the word. It uses a special refining process but it is not made from a gasseous state. This caused a huge lawsuit a few years back.

 

GD

 

I'm joining this a little late and agree with Rick, and have to add that automotive engines of today are much better than those of even 20 years ago. They burn much cleaner, are more efficient, and have tighter tolerances than the best engines of the 70's and 80's. That also adds to the longevity of the oil, less blowby and other contaminants getting into the oil to begin with. Can't remember if this has been mentioned here, but even oil technology has gotten better. Ever see ads for products like "high mileage" or "older engine" oil? Usually those are older grades like SE or SF..those were the grades from the 80's, so our EA81s and 82s were kind of "raised" on that stuff when they were new. Sort of like pre-'75 engines were designed around leaded fuel.

 

(Am I making sense? :lol: )

 

My 2 bucks

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Yeah ok the engines of today are better in a few ways like there better on the environment and save gas but they have all that computer crap on them and to many sensor's!! I mean the EA82 is easy and cheap to get to pass emissons! So new or old Subaru is a Subaru! And that's that!:headbang:

 

Later, Tom...............

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Yeah ok the engines of today are better in a few ways like there better on the environment and save gas.

 

Not better for the environment, and they really aren't any more effecient than many of the early 90's vehicles - 2007 Prius = 46 MPG..... 1994 Suzuki Swift = 46 MPG. I'll take the Swift for a variety of reasons.

 

but they have all that computer crap on them and to many sensor's!!

 

If you truely do have a Loyale, then you have an SPFI computer controlled injection system complete with a bunch of sensors..... so exactly what's the difference?

 

I mean the EA82 is easy and cheap to get to pass emissons! So new or old Subaru is a Subaru! And that's that!

 

It's not really that simple (few thing are). I like the new Subaru's too, but that isn't really the point, and I wouldn't drive one for obvious economical reasons. I have no qualms about trading up to a (early) Legacy when one lands in my yard though. The EA82 is a decent engine, but it's got nothing that makes it more desireable than an EJ18 or EJ22. Definately not reliability, longevity, maintenance costs, or any other metric I can think of. If you have one and like it that's great, but as Subaru engines go I would take an EA81 or an EJ22 over an EA82 any day of the week. There's not a single purpose for which an EA82 is better suited than one or the other of those two options.

 

GD

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  • 2 years later...

i got a picture to post showing the guts of a Fram. you can see the cardboard end caps, they're even flimsy just sitting there with no oil on them. if they're willing to make something that cheap on the inside and put their efforts into mass marketing instead of quality, i'll pass.

post-6800-136027636467_thumb.jpg

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Advance's "jobber" Powerflow filters are Purolator. But I've never seen a cutaway of one. But it's what I use on 2.2 and 2.5's except the much later ones with the bypass valve in them - them I use OEM. Looking at the jobber filter's check valve the OEM valve seems more substancial.

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