Hey there, I have been attempting to remove an axel on my 84 GL wagon 4X4 with an ea81 engine, and the darn spring or tension pin is stuck, i have used a punch and a hammer and sledge hammer and ended up breaking the punch! I managed to drive it about 1/4 of the way out and it will not budge, ive even tried drilling, ive spent hours trying to get this stupid pin out. If anyone knows something i dont about this, please let me know i could use the help. I already did the other side and had some difficulty but nothing like this. ANY HELP is GREATLY appreciated. THANKS!

 

-Phil

Have you tried driving it out in the other direction?

 

nipper

It appear I am driving it in the correct direction, it is possible I am wrong though...But I'm almost certain it is the correct direction, worth a try though

I would try soaking it with deep creep or something like that. I wonder if the axle was not on the trans spindle correctly when the pin was put in. If they are off by 180 degrees the holes are not exactly lined up and the pin is hard to get in. I wonder if someone bashed them in.

 

I've never had any trouble getting them out, but I've had the axles off by 180 degrees and had the pins be tough to get in.

 

Was the other pin still round when it came out?

 

Daniel

I had to DRILL the sh** out of the other pin to get it out...it was no fun either...that was after pounding on it too... I dont think I'm doing anything wrong, and Ive read threads about how simple this is...and if it werent for the pin it wouldn't be bad..but i HAVE to get that pin out of there ASAP..and Ive tried soaking it with some PB blaster..

I've blown them out with a torch on several occasions. I usually replace them with 1/4" bolts.

I had to DRILL the sh** out of the other pin to get it out...it was no fun either...that was after pounding on it too... I dont think I'm doing anything wrong, and Ive read threads about how simple this is...and if it werent for the pin it wouldn't be bad..but i HAVE to get that pin out of there ASAP..and Ive tried soaking it with some PB blaster..

 

What size punch are you using?

It should be a 3/16th punch. Anything smaller and it will spread the roll pin open and may damage it so it hangs up inside the axle.

I've used an air hammer to get them out. one of the rears on my blue lifted EA82 required an oxy/acetylene torch AND an air hammer.

 

 

not really a trick to it, just chemicals, and brute force. but once you get it moving a bit, it can help to pound it back in and try going out the other side.

its actually 7/32 roll pin punch that is correct.

its actually 7/32 roll pin punch that is correct.

 

Ok, if you want to get technical.

The manual says from 3/16 - 5/32, or 5mm - 6mm.

It appear I am driving it in the correct direction, it is possible I am wrong though...But I'm almost certain it is the correct direction, worth a try though

 

The hole tappers slightly, so the pin can really only be driven out, from one side. One of the holes for the pin should have a bevel. The other hole is not or should not be beveled. (i'ver seen bevels on both sides of after market axles)

 

The bevel is the one that the pin should be inserted from during installation.

 

So....You want to pound it out from the unbevelded side. If you are driving it into the beveled side it is just getting tighter and won't come out.

Once you get the pin out, and the new axle in, put some anti-sieze on the new pin.

I've always tapped it in AND out from the beveled side....

Subaru should have designed it to be held on by bolts in the first place... I'm using a 7/16 punch, I am aware of the taper, both sides have a bevel which is confusing, a also see that it used to be paint blue, so It was probobly aftermarket. I wont be able work on it for another week, so I'll post my results then, thanks for all the advice guys.

I once had one that wouldn't budge.I ended up using the edge of a 4" grinding

wheel and grinding into the pin a 1/4" or so on both sides. I was carful not to get into the stub axle,and when I was done the axle was worthless,but the remaing pin drifted right out.

I have done more Axles than I care to remember, and Ive driven the pins from both sides without problem. Ive always used a 3/16 punch, beveled side or not it never gave me trouble.

 

However, i don't live in the rust belt and im sure the guys on the east coast have a harder time than us on the west.

 

If you are having this much trouble, I suggest a torch... however, be careful because torches can cause more damage than good if used impropperly.

 

-Brian

 

 

p.s.

if you think its frusterating now, just wait until you remove the shaft from the hub and find out it took the inner bearing out with it.... then your in for a axle replacement AND bearings.

yup I've never payed attention to which direction I pound the pins out and I've never had one that won't come out. I too have replaced more than I can remember. I live in the rust belt and have never had one rusted in. I have had a rear axle that was rusted onto the splines but even then the pin came out with no problems.

7/32

ah my mistake i was using a 7/32 punch, rust is not the problem, if it fails to try pounding it out in the opposite direction i will try a torch. I've allready gotten the axel out of the knuckle..no loose bearings thank god haha

hmm, sounds like fun, yeah, im not sure on the whole taper thing, and both ends ive found are rounded, but i have had the problem of the stub axle out the box doesnt really line up that well on one 180 deg, maybe thats the trouble you've got, have you tried to move the axle in and out by hand to help dislodge it? does sound like its well in there though! be careful with the heat matey!

I once had one that wouldn't budge.I ended up using the edge of a 4" grinding

wheel and grinding into the pin a 1/4" or so on both sides. I was carful not to get into the stub axle,and when I was done the axle was worthless,but the remaing pin drifted right out.

 

I had to do the same thing. previous owner broke something off inside the roll pin and it would not budge.

I was doing the stretch axles anyways so I just cut into the DOJ cup.

 

Replaced them with 1/4 bolts. easy on and off FTW.

Anything smaller and it will spread the roll pin open and may damage it so it hangs up inside the axle.

f

 

Yup.... BTDT... I spread one out using too small a punch, and actually had to take the grinding wheel and grind the entire side of the axle off :banghead: I replaced them with bolts

7/32

 

Do you believe me now?

Matco tools sells a neat little tool made just for this. A subaru axle pin removal tool !! It is only $17.00, I bought one. Be careful, you can break the tool easily if you try to flex it too much to remove a stuck pin. Do not ask me how i know this.

6mm = 0.236"

 

or roughly 7.5/32

 

7/32 is about as close as you are going to get using tools measured in an inch, and sold at most normal stores.

 

If you want to be super duper nats @$$; get the tool Truckerman was talking about. Jeff has a couple, and they are cooler than the other side of the pillow.