February 11, 200917 yr that skid plate is DEFINITELY not attached to the engine crossmember. which makes sense since he's working on the exhaust.
February 11, 200917 yr Author ya i had dropped the back bracket for the skid plate to put on the front section of the exhaust and to remove the front sway bar. thats another reason for the car sitting on the 2 wheels/tires so i could have a little more room under the car to do the exhaust because our car hoist at work was taken at that time.
February 11, 200917 yr Author well time to trouble shoot, getting fuel (hear the pump prime, have the fuel pump power from the ECU to the pump and then the pump is grounded to the chassis) and also have spark. if anyone can help me out please give me a call at 206-245-9292
February 11, 200917 yr Author ok figured most of it out, you can now crank it and it will fire right up then die about 1second later. i just need to sort that out, hook up the tach, oil dummy light (led), temp gauge, and finish installing the wiring and ECU under the dash.
February 12, 200917 yr when youfigure it out pleas post just incase someone els has that problem. i was thinking maby a wire that needs to be hot when the key is on so the ecu stays on maby you have it hot when cranking so it fires then you stope and it dies. just a thought idk what wire it would be.
February 12, 200917 yr Author no because when i let go of the key it runs for that 1 second then dies, i thought it might be the MAF so i changed that with no luck. oh well im happy for today just to hear it fire over. hard part is done, now its just the mild details.
February 12, 200917 yr CEL codes? if you've gotten that far, it'll probably tell you what's up from there.
February 12, 200917 yr Thanx for the Skid Plate Explanations! ... ... I imagined that it was Hangin` but I Wanted to be Sure... About the one Second Runnin` Engine: I Believe that Maybe there`s a Loose Ground at the ECU, but also it could be Misplaced / Loosen Wires to the Sensors... But let me Ask you a simple Question: is There some Fuel cutting Solenoid, like the Carburetors have? ... Because it sounds to me like the Problem could be due to a Misplaced wire at the Cutting Fuel Solenoid... or it is Failing. Sometimes I Feel Lost in Translation but I Hope that You`ll Understand what I`m Writing about... I Hope this can Help. Kind Regards!
February 12, 200917 yr Author no i haven't yet hooked up the CEL wire, i have to figure that out tomorrow as well as extend that wire from the ECU as well as the tach, temp, and oil light. no there is no fuel cut off other wise the pump would not prime at all. i know i at least have one code for the O2 sensor since the one i put in my exhaust is wrong so i need to swap it out with the older one that will match the plug on the wiring. it just almost seems like the pump is not staying on. what happens is that you let it sit for 10minutes, turn on the key and fire ti up, will run for about 1 second then stall. each time you try to restart it after that it will run for shorter and shorter times until it just cranks. each time you turn the key you hear the pump prime, but i can't hear it when the engine is running. when it gets to the point of just cranking you have to let it sit for about 10 minutes then it will fire right up again and run again for only 1 second.
February 12, 200917 yr Trying to Help you, I Believe that Those Fuel pumps have some sort of Sensor that makes `em to Stop Pumping the Fuel when it is Enough already Sent... For example in a Carbureted Subie with Electric Pump (Like an EA82) if you just put the Key in "ON" Without Startin` the Engine, You`ll Hear that the Fuel Pump delivers Just an Small Amount before it Stops... Untill you Start the Engine. So, Maybe due to the Wires that aren`t connected Yet to the ECU, the Fuel Pump can be Acting in The Behaviour of the "ON key Position Without Start" even if the Engine is Already Started. Did you Swapped the EJ Engine`s Fuel Pump? ... if So, did you used the Original -old Pump`s- Wiring? So I Suggest you to Try to Wire the Fuel pump alone with Direct Wires from the Battery, to Test if There is the Problem... Disconnect the Car`s Wires while doin` that. Good Luck! Kind Regards.
February 12, 200917 yr got your pm....I'd call but since I'm mostly nocturnal.....yea, I'll call tomorrow though. in the mean time. have you checked to see if the rest of the harness is staying on while cranking? the "switched 12v" wire needs to be to a source that stays on while cranking. although it probably wouldn't fire at all if that were the case.....but hard to diagnose over the internet. also, what's the history on the engine? was it known to be running? because this also sounds a bit like a failed/failing Crank Angle Sensor.
February 12, 200917 yr Author ya the harness for the switched is ran off the black wire right off the ignition. it gets 12V when the key is in the ON and in Start positions. that is the same place i hooked up the start wire to for the choke. before i hooked up the start wire it wouldn't kick over at all. now about the engine. the long block is a 98 impreza 2.2 single port. it was in a front end collision but it still ran and drove fine, i drove it myself. the intake manifold and harness/ECU came off a running 94 legacy sedan but it burned oil. ill replace the crank sensor today and see if that helps at all. also it is REALLY rich when it does start, even while cranking you smell the gas quite a bit.
February 12, 200917 yr Author ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!! have to take off the dust shield under the bottom of the bellhousing because its rubbing. it was the ECU, was bad, just found another superceeded ECU just now so ill go try that, i put in a older one and it ran fine but had a searching idle.
February 12, 200917 yr Author ive got a short video of it right now, but will get more later and post them up tonight or tomorrow.
February 13, 200917 yr Author uploading vids right now, still have to sort out why im getting a start circuit trouble code as well as a crank angle code. if anyone can chime in or really help diagnose why my car has the surging idle it would be appreciated. it has the searching idle and if you try to give it any throttle imput it will try to stall out. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L_juO0EioOU ^when i just got finished wiring everything in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kZqXRV7G0c ^after ECU swap and fixing some other little things, just need to cure the surging idle now
February 13, 200917 yr congrats, very cool (like the guard and basket too - not overly busy, just practical)
February 13, 200917 yr Is that codes 12 and 23? If so start switch and airflow sensor. I'd guess resetting would cure the starter switch code?
February 13, 200917 yr Author Is that codes 12 and 23? If so start switch and airflow sensor. I'd guess resetting would cure the starter switch code? no i had the start wire hooked to 12V switched, not the starter signal wire at the ignition switch. so i swapped them so the start wire only gets 12V when cranking, now it will start right up and idle at 2K rpms to warm up, then stalls about 2-3 seconds later. so now i have to figure that out.
February 13, 200917 yr i think it is your turbo encabulator...........:lol:at least each step is bringing you closer!..cheers, brian
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now