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I have a 92 Loyale with an EJ22 swap using a 93 legacy 5MT transmission and rear diff. For a cross-member I am using the EA82 front and rear, the EJ22 center-piece bolts right up to the EA82 cross-members. From what I recall, the XT6 should be similar to the EA82 generation. It's been a long time since I sold my XT6. I can put my Loyale up on the lift tomorrow and take a couple pictures of my franken-member if it would help. Do you have any pictures up anywhere? Do you have a source for another 6MT?

I'm swapping an STi 6mt into my XT6 and have the center crossmember piece, but can't find the XT6 front and back pieces (my car is an automatic). Does anyone know where I can get those parts, and until then would it be a problem if I just used those from a regular EA82 chassis car and drilled holes to mount the EJ center piece?

Thanks Numbchux. I see the same destination code on my neighbor's 2004 Calif OB. Helps to know which cars to not buy up here in MT.

@czny never been to one, I’ll have to check it out.. what I tried didn’t work so well. After letting sit all night it was still not trustworthy to not fall apart and get sucked into the intake. I only need to fix it for a week or two, found one on the internet used. As long as it wasn’t a scam lol, I appreciate the info and help man

Didn't think of it before but there's also Hobby Lobby stores https://www.yellowpages.com/new-stanton-pa/hobby-lobby-hours Figures your valve would be disintegrating, next time.

Make sure the throttle plate is all the way closed. I'd get the airbox and all hoses back on/connected.

While this first post remains true and in waiting yet another brown wagon has come my way. Due to get my hands on it later this week or early next week. Then I’ll have a better assessment of what I’ll be doing with it. But from what I’ve seen this appears to be another BODY I won’t be needing. Again , I am waiting to see but this wagon might be front wheel drive. So two bodies will be available most likely between now and end of summer. Original posting car sits in Norwich CT and will need to be hauled from there. This additional wagon I’m still not sure where I’m dragging it but likely Naugatuck CT where the next owner can pick it up. Will add more details soon. But please keep in mind these cars will be extremely picked over and likely will NOT ROLL. So bring some type of dolley or big log or whatever gets it rolled onto your hauler. Message here or email me at moosens@yahoo.com

Hi, to start, my car is a 2004 Impreza 2.5TS 5MT with a 2000 Impreza L phase 2 EJ22 in it. To complete this swap, I transfered the intake and exhaust manifolds with any sensors and such associated, as well as the cam and crank sprockets. While the EJ222 was out, I replaced the valve cover gaskets and timing belt. I had a hiccup when getting it started that I didn't swap the cam and crank gears, so I had to go back in to do that, and when I fired it up, it would not go lower than 4000rpm, sometimes up to 5000 and I shut it off before I can see if it will go any higher. I tried cleaning the IACV which didn't help, followed by replacing it, which brought my rpm down to about 3000, before climbing right back up to 4500 a couple seconds later. I am getting codes P0519 AND P0113 currently, although the airbox and thus, IAT sensor, are not currently attached. Anyone have recommendations on what would be causing this ridiculously high idle? Thanks.

@czny outer diameter is the same size as the id, it fell apart inside the hose I got pieces of it man.. not a single ace within 50 miles had hobby brass or anything other than a refrigerator line for 55$..

By VIN, your car uses the 040. 100 is for the 3.0 and 07-09 253 (I work in parts at a Subaru dealership). Destination code U5 is for California, even though it's a 253.

Did you even try to get the hose nub out of the hose so it could be re-attached to the valve? It appears to me that you misunderstood the repair we suggested. Unless that poly tube is same OD as the ID of the hose(?)

@idosubaru @azdave @czny @lmdewIdk how well it will work but this is what I’m starting with., will modify tomorrow. Got it tapped to a 1/4 but could not get 1/4 copper or brass pipe without spending 60 on a refrigerator ice maker kit lol. I do hvac so my plan is to find a scrap piece

Before you order, go to your car and pinch all the hoses connecting to the pcv valve. Chances are they're already hard and brittle, probably crack or won't seal up if you take it apart. You might be better off ordering the pcv assembly with new hoses attached already.

Drove the car around the block this morning, ran smooth and pulled hard. Took a log of that and sent it to Haltech, hopefully they can tell some difference between the two. Recently finished these taller castle nuts, don't think I'd posted a picture yet. We had one strip out on one of B's ball joints a while back and it could have been a lot worse had we been going over a walking pace. About twice the thread engagement if you don't count the castellated part. 4340 steel, need to check hardness vs the stock ones when I get my hardness tester back, might get them heat treated. Since we normally have to use a washer or two under the stock castle nuts with our fabricated control arms these fit instead without washers. Put one on the Impreza when we reassembled it.

@azdave I’m going to try that today as it’s the only thing i think I can do at the moment.. going to ace now

According to your VIN plate you have an federal EJ253 engine, not an EJ259 california engine.

I ordered 11810AA100 which says its for U5. I put my vin into the order form and they cancelled it and said I need 11810AA040. When I searched online it said U5 is california vehicle so isn't that what I have?

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That is probably glass fiber reinforced Nylon and I've had fairly good success carefully fitting a short piece of K&S brass tubing inside a broken connection like that to add some mechanical strength and then carefully coating the outside with a layer of JB Weld. You can use tiny amounts of CA glue to hold things in position first and then epoxy smoothed over the top. Not sure if you have enough material there to work with.

@idosubaru @czny @lmdewOk thanks guys.. going to go to the closest ace tomorrow and see what I can find, not sure if I can tap it or not. It’s pretty brittle from heat over time. I’m thinking plastic cement might be my best bet til I can find a decent one. I think it’s a vacuum solenoid, my diagram is shot. Anyone know if one of a 2.2 would be compatible? I’m guessing not

Thought at first maybe a cam skipped timing or something but at least according to the Haltech they were still all good. Compression test isn't easy on these as you probably know. Haven't heard back from Haltech yet, will probably call them tomorrow. Will fire it up first, wouldn't be surprised if it runs OK after sitting.

Looks like the plastic binder qualities have cooked off from engine heat. IF you thread for a fitting go with a straight thread to prevent further cracking, not tapered like pipe thread. There may not be enough wall thickness to tap a hole so maybe find some brass hobby tubing at the Ace hardware to fit inside the hole snugly and plastic cement to glue it together.

Yes sucking air means more air and lower fuel/air ratio = lean.

I was meant to reply a while ago about that reverse gearset. The selector tabs look well chewed out, this along with the slop from the selector forks explains why it wouldn’t hold the gear. It’s hard to tell if the tabs were chewed out from rough use or from slipping out of gear as a result of the slop. Either way, neither of those would be helping! I hope you get that wiring sorted. Wiring gremlins are not fun. Odd about that spark timing at low revs. That rough running issue is interesting. Thought about doing a compression check to ensure all is well internally then go from there? Cheers Bennie