subnz Posted July 31, 2015 Share Posted July 31, 2015 (edited) Wish I still had it / kept it instead of giving it away in 2009 (needed new tyres and a battery more than what it was worth to sell) Still had plenty of life left in it Had Outback and Brumby (Brat) as well Had for 15 years added 200K km (125K miles) in that time ( 350K km - 220K miles total) The bitter irony is that is probably the best car I've ever owned for reliability simplicity cost to run etc. 86 GL 5MT D/R Alloys Aftermarket fitted to some of these of this vintage in NZ Edited July 31, 2015 by subnz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted August 3, 2015 Share Posted August 3, 2015 Pulled EA-82 engine out today from my parts car to rebuild and have a spare engine when the other gives out, and I didn't realize you also had to pull the A/C radiator for the bottom engine studs to clear the torque converter(i hate automatics), couldn't remove torque converter since there wasn't enough room to go foward and now i was stuck, so i went to plan B, and that was to cut and rip the chunk of metal that goes over the radiator so the engine could be pulled out, anyways I will rebuild and clean up the engine during fall and winter since i don't want to be working on it in 100degree weather... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Have you tried unbolting the rear trans crossmember to allow the back of the trans to drop down, giving you more angle to pull the engine off? pffft, 100 degrees. Soft 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subasaurus Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 (edited) Have you tried unbolting the rear trans crossmember to allow the back of the trans to drop down, giving you more angle to pull the engine off? pffft, 100 degrees. Soft i hate the heat, you might be used to it, but i prefer 30degrees over 90degrees..and lots of giant fire ants on the ground, didn't feel like getting bit some more lol, although that did pop into my mind, transmission has to be bolted on somehow, but being a 4WD Auto, it might have been more work than to just rip the chunk of metal over the radiator. Edited August 5, 2015 by Subasaurus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 (edited) not quite used to it, but need to cope with hotter temps than that. You might have needed to unbolt the shifter linkage, but the crossmember is only 4 bolts. Should've dropped some tranny fluid on the ants and then lit it Edited August 5, 2015 by wagonist 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuhaKankkunen Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 (edited) Mounting the Sedan's engine in! Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr Edited August 10, 2015 by JuhaKankkunen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 Got the GL pretty much entirely stripped. Engine out and shipped, trans out, door cards, speakers, relays, stereo, all stripped out. Just gotta snag the a/c lines and then it's off to that great junkyard in the sky for that poor sedan. Fun fact! The harness connector for the ashtray light and the trunk light are both wired and in place on the Loyale, though unused. I grabbed the trunk light and ashtray light out of my GL and swapped them in to my Loyale and it was a simple plug and play operation. You need the guide plate of the ashtray from the GL however, the Loyale one doesn't have the cut out for the light. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 I replaced a broken electric choke with a manual choke. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 WRX started after work, then stalled after 2 seconds. CEL on. , cranks, but won't fire. co worker had Torque app and his BT adapter. one code only, P0335 (crank sensor) some time back, I replaced the CPS while chasing another problem. I found my original one and hope to swap it in tomorrow at morning break. fingers crossed it's the sensor and not some melted wiring or ??? somewhere else. (brutally hot recently) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLoyale Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Finished the Weber swap, and won a trophy at the local Subaru show. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LucasP Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Been busy the last couple day on the car! Read shocks were shot so I sourced some rears out of an 02 outback at the u-pill it. Before grabbing them I looked online and they have about all the same dimentions. I had to make a new top mount for them, cut the bottom mount off my old shocks and weld them on the new shocks. The eye diameter was different and I didn't feel like messing with the existing mounts on the car in case I wanted to go back to regular shocks. I ended up cutting two coils off the outback springs to get the height I wanted. The result?!?!? The best ride I could imagine! Very firm ride but didn't bounce on a dirt road. Handles very sporty for what it is. I did have to beat the inside of the wheel well a bit to keep the coil from rubbing it. Then I started laying out the steel for my new front bumper. Should be done in a couple days. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 WRX started after work, then stalled after 2 seconds. CEL on. , cranks, but won't fire. co worker had Torque app and his BT adapter. one code only, P0335 (crank sensor) some time back, I replaced the CPS while chasing another problem. I found my original one and hope to swap it in tomorrow at morning break. fingers crossed it's the sensor and not some melted wiring or ??? somewhere else. (brutally hot recently) Won't any car really throw a crank sensor code when the engine isn't running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armedequation Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Just did the ford fuel pump install and it went very smooth on my 90 loyale. Doing some research right now for either the 2.2t or the 2.5 block with 2.2 heads. Basically tear it down and clean everything up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Won't any car really throw a crank sensor code when the engine isn't running? I think there's a comparison with the cam sensor(s) so, maybe legit? It was the only code and I knew I had an aftermarket (Beck/Arnley) CPS so - swapping it seemed logical in this instance. Put in the CPS today (has some trouble with a dropped bolt that tripled the expected amount of time to swap) and the car started! problem is, I should have tried it with the old sensor - didn't. old sensor measures the same as the new one (around 2K ohms) - leading me to wonder if that circuit has a problem elsewhere? and, if it quits again with the same code - I'll know to start looking somewhere else I guess. Wonder what bulkhead connector that CPS harness goes to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Had it hauled off :'( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 (edited) I ripped out the carpet from my flooded '86 Brat and gave it a good soap up, as well as started to scrub down interior console parts. Felt good to get something done for once! I just used dish washing soap and scrubbed and scrubbed. Does anyone have any other tips for trying to salvage a flooded/moldy carpet? Hit it with a pressure washer and then three days in the sun and it will be like new, Works very well on seats also and a good scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush and some good cleaner will also bring up plastics like new, It is amazing how dirty interiors get without you really noticing until you clean them properly. Edited August 15, 2015 by coxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coxy Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 (edited) i hate the heat, you might be used to it, but i prefer 30degrees over 90degrees.. and lots of giant fire ants on the ground, didn't feel like getting bit some more lol, although that did pop into my mind, transmission has to be bolted on somehow, but being a 4WD Auto, it might have been more work than to just rip the chunk of metal over the radiator. Fire Ants, Ever seen the size of their nests when they sort them out by pouring molten aluminium into the nests and then when it cools they have a massive 3D sculpture of a fire Ant Nest or maybe a "Hive" just like something out of Aliens.Link below so cool. https://www.google.com.au/search?newwindow=1&site=&source=hp&q=Fire+Ant+Aluminium+art&oq=Fire+Ant+Aluminium+art&gs_l=hp.3..0j0i22i30l3.3511.16723.0.17535.23.23.0.0.0.0.258.4627.2-21.21.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..3.20.4418.0.6T1pHIY2Mlg Heat isn't so bad as long as it is not too Humid now that really sucks like a Jet Engine, Unless you live in a Fire Ant nest like the above link then heat really sucks. Back on topic what have I done to my Subie lately, Broken no shattered really an Inner Double offset joint, Just turned the corner toward Work and rolled into the shop and fixed it that night so I could drive home. Edited August 15, 2015 by coxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 Lucky Texan Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 (edited) Did a coupla small things to my WRX; used the Turtle Wax kit to clear the headlight lenses, - worked well, I'm happy with the results. I also had to use a Dorman product to tether my gas cap since the plastic stock tether broke. It wasn't a perfect solution, but cheaper that a new OEM unit. the wire is quite tight and didn't spin well. I used some pliers to 'recurve' the tips of the wire outwards a little to prevent dragging. Edited August 15, 2015 by 1 Lucky Texan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JuhaKankkunen Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Today i did an upgrade of the instruments lights to LED. Only with the ones the illuminate and the 4WD one. The other still being conventional bulbs. Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr Sin título by Martin Ariel Santos, en Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Replaced EGR valve, new air filter and breather element. Still idle at 1500rpm better then 2k-3k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Didn't do anything to mine, but drove 1400km round trip to inspect a possible donor car. 1990 JDM (import to Aus) GTII touring wagon. Spec won't be too much surprised to US, but things that Aus wagons don't have that this one does: Digi dash, cruise, headlamp washers, front fogs, variable intermittent wipers, 4EAT, EA82T The engine has typical blown head gasket, but the body & interior are rough. Deciding whether to "kill" it for parts for mine, or fix it a bit with my parts (NA MPFI + dual range 5 spd) and use the good bits in my shell, or flog mine & "restore" this one. The car won't run without the green check connectors joined though, so has anyone got any advice about whether it could have electric problems also? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 What, did I frighten everyone off with this awesome wagon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
l75eya Posted August 21, 2015 Share Posted August 21, 2015 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bratbro Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Guess it all depends on your time $ and ability. I'm looking at 2 Brats one is a driver and the other is a donor. My plan was to get the drivable one finished then look for a turbo motor and transmission to drop in the donor. While the donor is bare I can do body work and clean / paint it till I find $ and the motor I want. Hope this helps you plan some. Keep it updated on which way you go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonas Posted August 22, 2015 Share Posted August 22, 2015 Put shims on my rear shocks i replaced a couple months ago. NO MORE ANNOYING KNOCKING! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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